97 4runner engine, 4wd, steering, ect. problems

androtaker · 12-04-2006, 05:43 PM

Sorry previous post was deleted due to the title being incorrect.

well I bought my 4 runner about a year ago and have had nothing but
trouble with it. havent even been able to keep up with all the things that
are going wrong with it. I am hoping that some people can give me some
troubleshooting on these problems so I dont have to try to figure them
all out myself.

1. inconsistent idle. almost feel like gas pedal is sticking but its
not. after driveing for awhile my idle speed jumps up to like 2000rpm. I
have to punch the pedal really quick and let off and itll fall down to
about 1000 rpm and slowly start rising again. I have taking apart the
throttle body and intake manifold and cleaned it thoroughly, didnt help
at all.

2. when the weather is warmer then around 20 degrees outside the truck
cranks for nearly 10 seconds before it wants to start, this only
happens if the truck sits for more then 30 minutes after running. but starts
find at -20 degrees

3. constant rumble throughout the vehicle while driving (really bad at
around 60 miles per hour) I have rotated the tires and did not feel any difference
in the rumble which points away from a bad tire.

4. clunking from drive axel (im going to replace the ujoints)

5. and now all of the sudden 4wd will not light and 4wd doesnt engage
when it is in 4wd. ( I am going to start checking vacume lines and see
if one is cracked /damaged.

6. occasionally when trying to cank the motor I get a backfire into the
exhaust, which suggests timing problem, but I think its flooding
itsself while Im trying to crank

7. surging forward while stopping, (I think its warped rotars, it use
to do it really bad in cali when I would stop long distances) steering
wheel seems to jerk side to side a little while this is happening

8. and last. there seem to be abnormal play in the steering wheel, not
like its loose like an old truck, its more like I feel the pressure on
the wheel but the truck doesnt start to react until about 1-2 inches
out of detent.

so theres my horror story. I love this 4runner and dont want to get
rid of it even with all of its problems.

If someone can help me with just one of these issues it will be greatly
appreciated.

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mpavolka · 12-04-2006, 08:40 PM

The steering issues are probably coming from loose parts in your steering. Check to make sure the bolts that hold your steering rack in the car are tight. Next, lift the car off the ground and grab the tire and turn them while the steering is locked or someone else is holding the wheel, you should be able to see where it is coming from. Probably a worn inner tie rod, however as in my case the steering rack itself was worn out too.

MTL_4runner · 12-05-2006, 05:46 AM

Wow, that's quite a list but I am sure YT can help you fix every one of them.

I don't have time to address each one right now, but I'll start from the bottom and work up.

8) I agree on the steering that it is probably bad steering bushings. Get under the truck and have someone move the steering wheel side to side (with the engine off). If you can see the entire rack move slightly, the bushings are probably shot. Also check both the inner and outer tie rods (if they are bad they may click audibly....put your hand on them while the person moves the wheel, you can usually feel if there is anything loose). Finally the rack may be bad but leave that as a last resort diagnosis after everything else checks out.

Bushing replacement:
http://www.keystonekrawlers.com/Mods...eeringBush.htm

SC4Runner · 12-05-2006, 11:31 AM

Well, here's some things I'd personally do first before taking it into a shop, but, I am no mechanic, so take it with a grain of salt.

1) Id replace the spark plugs, clean the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor), and possibly spark plug wires. Change fuel filter. (Even though Toyota states that their fuel filter is basically life-time).

2) Replace your battery. If not that, then alternator.

3) Rebalance your tires. Check ball joints/wheel bearings. While your at it, make sure you dont have an axle leak in the rear. (You'll see diff fluid coming from drums).

4) Did you try lubing them first?

5) Probably vaccum lines? I guess I dont know what's causing that.

6) Fuel filter/Injectors?

7) The stock rotors are pretty much crap. You definetly need to change those out. Everyone around here tends to get the Brembo's. They are good. As far as surging forward, it might have something to do with your 9 year old suspension.

8) Like the others have said, get the bushing replacement kit.

MTL_4runner · 12-05-2006, 02:50 PM

OK, next one...

7) Definately sounds like warped rotors so you'll need to put on new ones to get rid of the "surging" feeling. As SC4Runner mentioned you can either buy Brembo brand rotors (which tend to resist warping more than others) or replace the front brake system (calipers, pads, rotors) with that of a 01-03Toyota Tundra. Do a search for "s13we" and you'll find tons of info on this mod too.

androtaker · 12-05-2006, 04:43 PM

ok sound good thank for the help so far. as for the

1) Id replace the spark plugs, clean the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor), and possibly spark plug wires. Change fuel filter. (Even though Toyota states that their fuel filter is basically life-time).

1) spark plugs have been replaced, maf cleaned, spark plug wires still ned to be changed, fuel filter changed

2) Replace your battery. If not that, then alternator.

2) replaced battery and alternator.

3)Rebalance your tires. Check ball joints/wheel bearings. While your at it, make sure you dont have an axle leak in the rear. (You'll see diff fluid coming from drums).

3) tires ballenced less then a month ago (actually made the steering wheel shake while stopping worse), and no axle leak

4) Did you try lubing them first?

4) lubed frequently

I work for a performance shop on imports so I have alot of knowledge in the mechanic side of the house. I havent really had alot of time to check into the suspension problem, but the starting problem I have been troubleshooting for quite some time, I even broke down and brought it into a shop to help me troubleshoot it and they couldnt find anything wrong. occasionally I get a check engine light for a vacume problem but it clears and wont come back for months so it is really hard to troubleshoot. I have done a full vacume system check and found nothing wrong. but I feel this problem is directly related to the starting problem.

Hollywood · 12-05-2006, 06:23 PM

My wife has a 97 limited with a 3.4 and automatic w/ RR diff and 140K. 4WD worked great all summer at the beach, then last week I hit the 4wd button and no light or 4wd. I checked the vaccum lines and bypassed the vaccum solenoids to engage the front diff, and it engaged, but it will not engage at the transfer case, and I don't get a light. I checked the fuse, pulled apart the console, and read through the switch on the shifter from the computer to ground, and it works as advertised, so I replaced the 4wd computer (in the drivers footwell) and no joy. Now I am lost. I still have the same problem that you do (the 4wd will not engage when the button is pushed) and I'm not sure where to look now. I am not going to the local dealer with it because they just ripped us off for almost $600 for a rear axle seal and rear brake job. ANY HELP WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED!!!

BTW,

#1 - tune-up, fuel system cleaner and maybe a mass air sensor?

#2 - see #1

#3 - maybe a U joint? Do the tired have an agressive tread pattern?

#4 - sounds like you got it

#5 - see rant above...

#6 - is it a 3.4? I don't know what could cause a FI engine to flood except lack of spark or a computer (or maybe Mass Air) problem...

#7 - sounds like rotors to me

#8 - Get an alignment. If you have larger tires, a bad alignment can sometimes cause the truck to be slow to respond. Especially if the steering linkage is worn.

No go find out what's wrong with your 4wd (#5) so I can fix mine!!!

MTL_4runner · 12-05-2006, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by androtaker

occasionally I get a check engine light for a vacume problem but it clears and wont come back for months so it is really hard to troubleshoot. I have done a full vacume system check and found nothing wrong. but I feel this problem is directly related to the starting problem.

It would be good to know exactly what that code number was?
That may lead to some answers to some of these issues.

MTL_4runner · 12-05-2006, 06:50 PM

I'll go for #5 next since a few people are having that issue.

Usually it is vacum/switching related, not the 4wd computer....

Few threads for your reading enjoyment:
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=91288
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=94600

Hollywood · 12-05-2006, 07:14 PM

Thanks for the heads up! I looked for threads but must have missed these. As soon as I figure it out, I'll pass along the reults.

androtaker · 12-05-2006, 09:03 PM

as far as the 4wd drive issue I had a problem like this previously but it was my fault. I had checked the vacume system to help with my starting problem and incorrectly hooked up the one way valve that is inline on the 4wd system when that was backwards it would not let vacume through and that caused the same problem I am having now, no light and no 4wd.

the problem happened this time while it was about -30 degrees (that is not an error it was -30f) and I had pulled it into a carwash to get it cleaned, then when I pulled back out I tried to reengage my 4wd, no luck, so I let the truck sit in a warm garage to thaw thinking ice had formed somewhere it wasnt supposed to, but that didnt work.

im about to do the gray wire mod so I can have some sort of traction on these icy roads.

SC4Runner · 12-06-2006, 02:52 PM

Yeah, sounds like you know what your doing... Honestly, I haven't really heard of many people having quite as many problems with their 4runners that you are!

If you could find a Toyota specialist, it might be the best thing.

Gray wire mod is awesome. Make sure you use the writeup which directly talks about 4runners. The Tacoma ECU wires are different, and even the earlier 4runners have different colors.

I forgot which writeup I used, but, it had mentioned this and directed me to the correct wire.

jonwanner · 12-06-2006, 09:28 PM

i would be carefull locking the rear diff in the ice or snow. at high speeds, it can equal really bad/ dangerous handling.

12-04-2006, 08:40 PM	#2 (permalink)
mpavolka Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 311	The steering issues are probably coming from loose parts in your steering. Check to make sure the bolts that hold your steering rack in the car are tight. Next, lift the car off the ground and grab the tire and turn them while the steering is locked or someone else is holding the wheel, you should be able to see where it is coming from. Probably a worn inner tie rod, however as in my case the steering rack itself was worn out too. __________________ 99' 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L Sonoran Steel 7.1/7.2/OME891 Previous Vehicles: 1985 4x4, 1990 4Runner

12-05-2006, 05:46 AM	#3 (permalink)
MTL_4runner Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Montreal, QC Canada Posts: 8,807	Wow, that's quite a list but I am sure YT can help you fix every one of them. I don't have time to address each one right now, but I'll start from the bottom and work up. 8) I agree on the steering that it is probably bad steering bushings. Get under the truck and have someone move the steering wheel side to side (with the engine off). If you can see the entire rack move slightly, the bushings are probably shot. Also check both the inner and outer tie rods (if they are bad they may click audibly....put your hand on them while the person moves the wheel, you can usually feel if there is anything loose). Finally the rack may be bad but leave that as a last resort diagnosis after everything else checks out. Bushing replacement: http://www.keystonekrawlers.com/Mods...eeringBush.htm __________________ - Jamie 1996 4Runner SR5 4X4 Auto Deckplate Mod, Hayden Tranny Cooler, Amsoil Air Filter, OME 881/906 N86C/N91SC Lift Best OBD II scan tool I have used!. .....and I am AMERICAN! Last edited by MTL_4runner; 12-05-2006 at 05:48 AM.

12-05-2006, 11:31 AM	#4 (permalink)
SC4Runner Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: 5th Gen San Diegan, California Posts: 5,892	Well, here's some things I'd personally do first before taking it into a shop, but, I am no mechanic, so take it with a grain of salt. 1) Id replace the spark plugs, clean the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor), and possibly spark plug wires. Change fuel filter. (Even though Toyota states that their fuel filter is basically life-time). 2) Replace your battery. If not that, then alternator. 3) Rebalance your tires. Check ball joints/wheel bearings. While your at it, make sure you dont have an axle leak in the rear. (You'll see diff fluid coming from drums). 4) Did you try lubing them first? 5) Probably vaccum lines? I guess I dont know what's causing that. 6) Fuel filter/Injectors? 7) The stock rotors are pretty much crap. You definetly need to change those out. Everyone around here tends to get the Brembo's. They are good. As far as surging forward, it might have something to do with your 9 year old suspension. 8) Like the others have said, get the bushing replacement kit. __________________ 1996 4x4 3.4L 4Runner on 35's - 6" of lift, MTR's, E-locked, ARB Tacoma Bumper, Sliders and a cut off tail pipe. 1966 FJ40 - SOA with stock springs, stock 1F motor, and a smelly tailpipe.

12-05-2006, 02:50 PM	#5 (permalink)
MTL_4runner Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Montreal, QC Canada Posts: 8,807	OK, next one... 7) Definately sounds like warped rotors so you'll need to put on new ones to get rid of the "surging" feeling. As SC4Runner mentioned you can either buy Brembo brand rotors (which tend to resist warping more than others) or replace the front brake system (calipers, pads, rotors) with that of a 01-03Toyota Tundra. Do a search for "s13we" and you'll find tons of info on this mod too. __________________ - Jamie 1996 4Runner SR5 4X4 Auto Deckplate Mod, Hayden Tranny Cooler, Amsoil Air Filter, OME 881/906 N86C/N91SC Lift Best OBD II scan tool I have used!. .....and I am AMERICAN! Last edited by MTL_4runner; 12-05-2006 at 06:33 PM.

12-05-2006, 06:50 PM	#9 (permalink)
MTL_4runner Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Montreal, QC Canada Posts: 8,807	I'll go for #5 next since a few people are having that issue. Usually it is vacum/switching related, not the 4wd computer.... Few threads for your reading enjoyment: http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=91288 http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=94600 __________________ - Jamie 1996 4Runner SR5 4X4 Auto Deckplate Mod, Hayden Tranny Cooler, Amsoil Air Filter, OME 881/906 N86C/N91SC Lift Best OBD II scan tool I have used!. .....and I am AMERICAN!

12-05-2006, 04:43 PM	#6 (permalink)
androtaker Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: fairbanks, ak Posts: 5	ok sound good thank for the help so far. as for the 1) Id replace the spark plugs, clean the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor), and possibly spark plug wires. Change fuel filter. (Even though Toyota states that their fuel filter is basically life-time). 1) spark plugs have been replaced, maf cleaned, spark plug wires still ned to be changed, fuel filter changed 2) Replace your battery. If not that, then alternator. 2) replaced battery and alternator. 3)Rebalance your tires. Check ball joints/wheel bearings. While your at it, make sure you dont have an axle leak in the rear. (You'll see diff fluid coming from drums). 3) tires ballenced less then a month ago (actually made the steering wheel shake while stopping worse), and no axle leak 4) Did you try lubing them first? 4) lubed frequently I work for a performance shop on imports so I have alot of knowledge in the mechanic side of the house. I havent really had alot of time to check into the suspension problem, but the starting problem I have been troubleshooting for quite some time, I even broke down and brought it into a shop to help me troubleshoot it and they couldnt find anything wrong. occasionally I get a check engine light for a vacume problem but it clears and wont come back for months so it is really hard to troubleshoot. I have done a full vacume system check and found nothing wrong. but I feel this problem is directly related to the starting problem.

12-05-2006, 06:23 PM	#7 (permalink)
Hollywood Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: in the Great Dismal Swamp Posts: 14	My wife has a 97 limited with a 3.4 and automatic w/ RR diff and 140K. 4WD worked great all summer at the beach, then last week I hit the 4wd button and no light or 4wd. I checked the vaccum lines and bypassed the vaccum solenoids to engage the front diff, and it engaged, but it will not engage at the transfer case, and I don't get a light. I checked the fuse, pulled apart the console, and read through the switch on the shifter from the computer to ground, and it works as advertised, so I replaced the 4wd computer (in the drivers footwell) and no joy. Now I am lost. I still have the same problem that you do (the 4wd will not engage when the button is pushed) and I'm not sure where to look now. I am not going to the local dealer with it because they just ripped us off for almost $600 for a rear axle seal and rear brake job. ANY HELP WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED!!! BTW, #1 - tune-up, fuel system cleaner and maybe a mass air sensor? #2 - see #1 #3 - maybe a U joint? Do the tired have an agressive tread pattern? #4 - sounds like you got it #5 - see rant above... #6 - is it a 3.4? I don't know what could cause a FI engine to flood except lack of spark or a computer (or maybe Mass Air) problem... #7 - sounds like rotors to me #8 - Get an alignment. If you have larger tires, a bad alignment can sometimes cause the truck to be slow to respond. Especially if the steering linkage is worn. No go find out what's wrong with your 4wd (#5) so I can fix mine!!!

12-05-2006, 07:14 PM	#10 (permalink)
Hollywood Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: in the Great Dismal Swamp Posts: 14	Thanks for the heads up! I looked for threads but must have missed these. As soon as I figure it out, I'll pass along the reults. __________________ '97 Toyota 4Runner Limited '01 Honda S2000 '93 GMC Shaggin Wagon '00 Glastron SX 195 '82 Yamaha Maxim '06 Troy Built Pony

12-05-2006, 09:03 PM	#11 (permalink)
androtaker Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: fairbanks, ak Posts: 5	as far as the 4wd drive issue I had a problem like this previously but it was my fault. I had checked the vacume system to help with my starting problem and incorrectly hooked up the one way valve that is inline on the 4wd system when that was backwards it would not let vacume through and that caused the same problem I am having now, no light and no 4wd. the problem happened this time while it was about -30 degrees (that is not an error it was -30f) and I had pulled it into a carwash to get it cleaned, then when I pulled back out I tried to reengage my 4wd, no luck, so I let the truck sit in a warm garage to thaw thinking ice had formed somewhere it wasnt supposed to, but that didnt work. im about to do the gray wire mod so I can have some sort of traction on these icy roads.

12-06-2006, 02:52 PM	#12 (permalink)
SC4Runner Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: 5th Gen San Diegan, California Posts: 5,892	Yeah, sounds like you know what your doing... Honestly, I haven't really heard of many people having quite as many problems with their 4runners that you are! If you could find a Toyota specialist, it might be the best thing. Gray wire mod is awesome. Make sure you use the writeup which directly talks about 4runners. The Tacoma ECU wires are different, and even the earlier 4runners have different colors. I forgot which writeup I used, but, it had mentioned this and directed me to the correct wire. __________________ 1996 4x4 3.4L 4Runner on 35's - 6" of lift, MTR's, E-locked, ARB Tacoma Bumper, Sliders and a cut off tail pipe. 1966 FJ40 - SOA with stock springs, stock 1F motor, and a smelly tailpipe.

12-06-2006, 09:28 PM	#13 (permalink)
jonwanner Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 18	i would be carefull locking the rear diff in the ice or snow. at high speeds, it can equal really bad/ dangerous handling.

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