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95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

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Old 07-27-2008, 05:37 AM   #1
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'96 3RZ-FE cracked head--looking for repair info

Hello,

I'm picking up a '96 Taco 4x4 X-tra cab with a 2.7L and 5-speed. It has a cracked head (already removed and diagnosed). Does anyone have any writeups on a rebuild? I'm not going to be interested in spending top dollar on a performance replacement engine. I'm looking for basically enough to get the truck running again at a reasonable cost and retain a stock setup (again, I'm not looking for performance upgrades). There aren't too many used 2.7L out there, though there are enough that I might get a used one if the cost is right. If I rebuild, what else should I think about changing (truck has around 200k). Any other suggestions/comments/tips?
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Old 07-28-2008, 09:29 AM   #2
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No clue man...I'd advise checking out www.ttora.com. There are a lot of Tacoma owners on that board with the 2.7L. You might have better luck.
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Old 07-28-2008, 10:25 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skrillah View Post
No clue man...I'd advise checking out www.ttora.com. There are a lot of Tacoma owners on that board with the 2.7L. You might have better luck.
http://www.risingsunengines.com/

that's where I got my 96' 3RZ from. They're great guys to work w/.
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Old 07-28-2008, 04:56 PM   #4
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Thanks--I'm getting the impression this 2.7L is NOT known for head gasket problems like the V6's (especially the older 3.slow). The block looks surprisingly similar to a 22RE, though everything is flip-flopped from passenger side to driver side, even the fuel filter.
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnF View Post
Thanks--I'm getting the impression this 2.7L is NOT known for head gasket problems like the V6's (especially the older 3.slow). The block looks surprisingly similar to a 22RE, though everything is flip-flopped from passenger side to driver side, even the fuel filter.
the 2RZ and 3RZ is like the next generation 22RE. It's very economical, very STOUT, and it's extremely reliable. Plus they have 40-50hp more than a 22RE. One thing about the RZ engines is that they're 4 valve per cylinder, and the webbing in between the valves is already thin. Higher mileage engines tend to have cracked heads in between the valves. Running larger than stock valves is a very risky thing on these heads. If you do that, you're running an even greater risk of cracking the head. These engines are capable of well over 1000hp(forced induction).
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Old 07-28-2008, 07:52 PM   #6
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the 2RZ and 3RZ is like the next generation 22RE. It's very economical, very STOUT, and it's extremely reliable. Plus they have 40-50hp more than a 22RE. One thing about the RZ engines is that they're 4 valve per cylinder, and the webbing in between the valves is already thin. Higher mileage engines tend to have cracked heads in between the valves. Running larger than stock valves is a very risky thing on these heads. If you do that, you're running an even greater risk of cracking the head. These engines are capable of well over 1000hp(forced induction).
Interesting information there. 4 valves per cylinder, although I guess it makes sense on a 16 valve engine. Doh...

Whats the life span of the timing set on these though. I think mine is starting to make some noise.
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Old 07-29-2008, 08:53 AM   #7
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The guides on this 3RZ are MUCH improved over the 22R/22RE and are NOT all busted up. This motor has 200k on it and it still looks good. I'm not sure what the recommended replacement interval is, but for 200k, it looks good. If I was going to repair the existing motor though, I'd replace the chain and related parts anyway because it's already apart.
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Old 07-29-2008, 09:07 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnF View Post
The guides on this 3RZ are MUCH improved over the 22R/22RE and are NOT all busted up. This motor has 200k on it and it still looks good. I'm not sure what the recommended replacement interval is, but for 200k, it looks good. If I was going to repair the existing motor though, I'd replace the chain and related parts anyway because it's already apart.
Yeah, I'm getting this weird knocking coming from the bottom of the engine somewhere. I'm thinking it might be the exhaust manifold again, as most of us know, they def aren't bullet proof on this engine.
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Old 07-29-2008, 11:17 AM   #9
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Yes, this exhaust manifold is about ready to fall in half. It even tops the notorious Land Rover manifolds that are prone to cracking. If I can find a used header, I may go that route. But this truck is more intended to be a beater and I'm not going to be putting a lot of money into it. Reliable and stock are about all I want out of this tacoma. Oh, and maybe a basic TJM T-17 and smittybilt 8000lb winch....

There I go, dreaming again. One can never go wrong with a winch though.
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Old 07-29-2008, 12:59 PM   #10
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Haha, nah man. You can always take it off and use it on another rig.
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Old 07-30-2008, 06:47 AM   #11
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The lifespan of a 3RZ timing chain is infinite... It could last either 100K or it could last 300K. If it does break, you'll be fine. The 2RZ, 3RZ, & 5VZ are all non-interfernce engines. Your valves will not make contact w/ the pistons if the chain/belt ever broke in one of these engines.
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Old 07-30-2008, 09:01 AM   #12
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The lifespan of a 3RZ timing chain is infinite... It could last either 100K or it could last 300K. If it does break, you'll be fine. The 2RZ, 3RZ, & 5VZ are all non-interfernce engines. Your valves will not make contact w/ the pistons if the chain/belt ever broke in one of these engines.
Yeah, I'm not real concerned with it. I've done the whole ear/screwdriver to the block trick and heard nothing but normal, clear engine performance. So I don't think what I"m hearing is timing related, otherwise it would be noticeable all during the the driving rpms and when I tried listening...or so I think..?

Anyways, back on topic...did you find the information you were looking for Optimus?
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Old 07-30-2008, 09:59 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Yeah, I'm not real concerned with it. I've done the whole ear/screwdriver to the block trick and heard nothing but normal, clear engine performance. So I don't think what I"m hearing is timing related, otherwise it would be noticeable all during the the driving rpms and when I tried listening...or so I think..?

Anyways, back on topic...did you find the information you were looking for Optimus?
how many miles do you have on your engine? Do you think it might be lifter tap? The valves do need to be adjusted every so often.
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Old 07-30-2008, 12:56 PM   #14
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Anyways, back on topic...did you find the information you were looking for Optimus?
Not really, I am not a member at tacoma territory yet, though I started browsing through their forum. I mainly focused on topics that were discussing solutions to the cracked manifold problem. But from what I can tell, not a lot of people are experiencing a cracked head. Given that this motor was dissembled by someone else, I'm probably better off getting a different motor altogether. I tried to get a quote from Rising Sun, but they never got back to me. I will keep looking though. I see some complete rebuilds on eBay for $1500 plus shipping, but I don't want to spend that much. I'd rather buy a new/used head, pay a machine shop to check the block/pistons, and reassemble everything myself.
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Old 07-30-2008, 01:39 PM   #15
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Sent you a PM about Cracked alum cyl head repair. You may want to ask him about a fully rebuilt 3rz as well you may be surprised.
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Old 07-30-2008, 04:14 PM   #16
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Sent you a PM about Cracked alum cyl head repair. You may want to ask him about a fully rebuilt 3rz as well you may be surprised.
I second the fully rebuilt, a friend of mine did that and he didn't pay out the ass. Although, I dont' remember what exactly he paid, i'll try and find out.

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how many miles do you have on your engine? Do you think it might be lifter tap? The valves do need to be adjusted every so often.
I have 142k...
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Old 07-30-2008, 06:39 PM   #17
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My rebuild kit for my 3RZ that I'm putting in my 85' was $800 and some change. By the time you have the block machined, you're already at $1000, then paying someone to build it, you're probably gonna be paying someone $100/hr(give or take), and they're probably gonna put 3hrs into the build(at least), and another 2(AT LEAST) into setting the timing chains and checking the valves. I had a buddy build my engine, then he took it to the best cylinder head guy in town to check the valves... the guy put almost 3hrs into setting the valves. A rebuild can be rather costly. 3RZ's aren't cheaply priced engines. Mine from Rising Sun was like $1800, but then after shipping, it was over $2K. If you can get a long block off ebay for $1500, you're getting a good deal(considering the machine work is done by a reputable shop). It can be a stressful process, but it's do-able. Another route you might wanna check is Jonathan over at Rancho Toyota Truck Parts @ 916-631-7777. He's a great guy to deal w/, if you call him, make sure you tell him Wesley told you to call him. I've bought parts from him, and he's a super knowledgeable guy and super nice. Good luck!
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Old 07-30-2008, 06:43 PM   #18
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I have 142k...
If you know what you're doing, you can set the valves(valve shims) in a Saturday. It's a semi-in-depth project, but it's not terrible. It basically consists of a FSM, a feeler gauge, removing the valve cover & probably the timing gears and cam shafts(to put the correct size shim in the cam buckets if they need to be changed). If you pay someone, you're probably going to be in the $500 ballpark if you need any new shims. New shims are about $7 from Toyota of Dallas(cheapest you're gonna find), and if you have to replace all 16, that can really expensive, really quick.
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Old 07-30-2008, 06:44 PM   #19
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http://www.ranchotoyotatruckparts.com/ for future reference.
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Old 07-31-2008, 08:39 AM   #20
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If you know what you're doing, you can set the valves(valve shims) in a Saturday. It's a semi-in-depth project, but it's not terrible. It basically consists of a FSM, a feeler gauge, removing the valve cover & probably the timing gears and cam shafts(to put the correct size shim in the cam buckets if they need to be changed). If you pay someone, you're probably going to be in the $500 ballpark if you need any new shims. New shims are about $7 from Toyota of Dallas(cheapest you're gonna find), and if you have to replace all 16, that can really expensive, really quick.
Is there a set way tp tell if you need a valve job or do you just do it based on the age and mileage? Would there be a noise I would hear?

I'll have to look around and see what shops could do this for me.
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Old 07-31-2008, 08:39 AM
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