wsabee

Edit----this is a 1998 SR5 with the 3.4 L 5VZ-FE V6.......( not a 95) Had a Camshaft snap so we ordered and replaced drivers side cam. Ended up replacing both Head gaskets, manifold gaskets ( all gaskets), water pump, timing belt, actuator pin, pulley, Thermostat, and Radiator. Still overheats after about 20 minutes. Thought we may have screwed up head gaskets but pressure is fine in the cylinders, no pink milkshake, no moisture on plugs, no white smoke. Fan clutch is working fine and tried bypassing heater core but that did not help. Seems to be a flow issue, top radiator hose is scalding but lower is fine.
I am at a loss.

Jason

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Jason... not sure, they might say, "wrong forum".... as you've got a 95... But that's TOTALLY besides the point right now, I know you're probably stressed....

I've seen STAT's go in upside down.... And REALLY bad air pockets in the cooling system can lead to issues as well... I wouldn't think THAT serious of a 'one sided' pressure issue... But still. I've also heard that 3.0 HG's are easy to install backwards... Not sure if that causes immediate milkshake or just a flow issue... Not trying to freak you out, nor second guess ya.. just what I've read(not much of a 3.0 guy).

Have you burped the system really well and made sure the stat is in right side up? Heck, I've even seen BRAND NEW OEM stat's be junk and not open at all. Have you tried running it without the stat to see? Maybe test the stat while it's out just to be sure?

Best wishes, man... I'm SURE some 3.0 Guru's will chime in

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ahhhh, I see you said, "Thought we might have had screwed up the HG's, but pressure is fine", etc... So I guess you've heard of that as well... Sorry.

wsabee

Just realized I put 95...it is a 98..sorry. I am new here. The HG were definately installed correctly. I have not tried it w/o the Thermo. I may try that next. This engine does not have bleeder valves, how would I "burp it" properly?

Thanks

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Wsabee...

I hear ya, I typo EVERY day, lol.

Anyway, .... burping is pretty much getting the radiator cap at the HIGHEST point you can(on an incline, etc.), and then running it and rocking on the bumper, etc., trying to get any air trapped within the motor/near any various sensors/to escape, ya know? I DOUBT that's causing such a dramatic back-up of pressure. I HOPE it's an upside down Stat or something of the sort. Never know, ... COULD be a massive amount of air in there... Worth a shot, right? And FREEEEEEEEEE! As the mattress joker says! haha.

wsabee

Thanks Chef. i 'm going to flip the Thermo first and then bleed it the way you suggest. Hopefully it's that simple. 15 min or so for the Thermo. Unfortunately we just got hit by a huge storm so have to wait.

rworegon

You have seen these threads?

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/9...tumped-245391/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/5...easure-249481/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/3...ebuild-250665/

Remember, jiggle valve is in the 6 o'clock position per the FSM.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

WOOOOOOOOOE! lol.... I only meant to flip it if it's accidentally been installed upside down. Sometimes, the housings are designed in a way that it's not even possible to do so... And I've not seen a 3.4 housing before... So as I said, not sure it's upside down at all... just saying, "check, it's free to make sure"... And another thing.. As mentioned in the threads that RW posted... USE OEM STAT, PERIOD! You can run another type... but they need that wiggle valve.

Best wishes on this... And don't forget to turn on the heater full blast while you're burping.... BIG pockets can get caught in the heater core... don't want that in there, coming loose, next time you turn on the heat, releasing some big air bubble, ya know?

wsabee

Yeah, when I say "flip it" I do mean check it to be sure it is in the 6 oclock position. LOL...Reading the other posts seems like that may be an issue. I do believe I bought OEM but if not , Auto Zone is less than a 3 wood away from me and I will go get another. I have to check the HG like they said on the other threads. I am 99% sure I got it right ( no compression issues...130,128, 130/ 130, 130, 128) but I am willing to do whatever I need to. I will do the Thermo and burp first though.

meCANic87

this deff sounds like a bad/upside down thermo to me, take it out completely and see how it runs, if it is still overheating then u have a bad head gasket, if thats the case than the exhaust is entering the coolant and heating it up causing it to overheat, to check this start the engine and take off the radiator cap and look for bubbles

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well, I don't mean "OEM", the brand, ... I mean OEM-Toyota, as in 'dealer part only'... Sometimes, you can get Toyota-OEM at Napa, things like Water pumps, or anything made by Altrom(which is apparently Aisin ground off and Altrom Name printed on).... they also, like most parts stores, carry Denso and NGK plugs, etc. OEM-toyota Oil Filters/Thermostats, etc.? Not sure. If you have NOT replaced the stat(thought you said you did), then just run tomorrow without one and wait til monday, walk into the dealer and grab one from them, 'Toyota' Brand. If you HAVE replaced it.. maybe do the 'drill out' mod?

130MAX compression? I'm not up on the 3.4... Is that normal to be lower? My 22RE is a lil built, but not much, and I'm pulling around 170#, straight across...... ??? I'm guessing you've been told that's fine... And in fact, if mine after a few years was that, I wouldn't necessarily worry, ... long as they're really close in # comparison, like yours MOST DEFINITELY is

Let us know..... Please? Lots of people on here... LOTS, come asking for input, then NEVER fill us in as to whether it was fixed! haha... 1. That's just rude, hehehe.... 2. It's not as much "I just gotta know how it turned out".... as much as it is ''WHAT IT TURNED OUT to be", ya know? Helps lots, like those threads above! (GOOD HAVING THE 6, RW!!!!!!!!) lol

wsabee

Thanks for all the advice. I did flip the Therrmo, it has a giggler valve or whatever it's called. It was at 12 oclock and I re set it to 6 oclock. Burped it and filled it. Still the same issues. I checked the Head gasket and they are on the correct side. It doesnt completely overheat until I drive it. Idling it gets hot but appx 3/4 to the red. I will check the Cats next and update. I am taking a step back for a day or so. It has me frustrated..

rworegon

And, you are in the range of 60/40 to 50/50 coolant to water ratio?

Do you have the old radiator that you could swap back in for a comparison? It's possible the new radiator is wonky.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I was actually typing that a couple days back... then deleted it(I Think, ...didn't I?, haha), regarding the radiator rods being done wrong on the new ones, etc....

Hmmm,.... odd.

Sorry you're having this drama, man!

wsabee

Just using water to test it then will switch to 50/50
Don't want to waste a bunch of coolant. Should not make a difference since i have the engine running less than 1/2 hour each time.

Old rad is toast.Wrench knocked a hole in fins

enapa

You probably recognize my name from the stumped thread. Im assuming you have looked on underside of drivers side head to see the big L on the corner of the head gasket and thats how you confirmed correct placement. My suggestion is to get coolant in there. The 3.4 is touchy on the temp side of things and it would be worth it to try that as well.

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

Run the engine with the radiator cap off. After the engine warms up, you should see water moving on the top of the radiator. If not, maybe your radiator is clogged.
Take your radiator out and run water through it...see if you get any stuff coming out ...

kball

Not sure reading your first post, this was overheating before the work you did for the cam? Did you test your new thermostat in a pot of hot water to make sure it opens?

deadnote

my 96 limited would overheat sometimes, i finally by-passed the rear heater and never had the problem again.

lobukbuild

just a thought. remember water boils at a lower temp than a 50-50 mix of anti freeze/coollant and water, and even lower when the cap is off. the cap holds pressure in the system allowing for a few more degrees before itll come to a boil.