Joyota

Changing the head gasket on my 89 Pickup (22RE)

Since parts of the timing chain guide are now in the oil pan, I'm going to have to remove it to clean it out. What is the easiest way (exactly) to get the pan out? Haynes says to disconnect the pitman arm and steering, and Chilton says disconnect the differential, but neither details the procedures.

Also, I found an emission part that is cracked. I took a picture of it and it can be found here.

Can someone tell me what it is, so I can look into getting a new one?

One more thing. Someone mentioned priming the oil pump before installation. How is this done and with what type of oil?

Sorry for all the questions guys, but I really don't want to have to do this again any time soon.

TIA,
Jovis

yotafreakshow

That emissions part is the Air Suction read valve.
You're supposed to pack the oil pump with petrolium jelly, it primes the pump and dissolves into the oil when it heats up. I have just heavily oiled the components upon reassembly in the past and it has worked fine.
You will need to drop the oil pan to clean it out, and you will have to move the front diff. out of the way to do it.
Here is the front diff. removal procedure from my 89 factory service manual:

Drain dfferential oil.
Disconnect propeller shaft (driveshaft).
Disconnect driveshafts from side gear shaft. (these are the inboard ends of your front CV shafts, 6 nuts each. If you have the front end jacked up, have a friend push the brake pedal w/hubs locked to get the nuts loose).
Disconnect vacuum lines and 4wd indicator switch if you have auto hubs.
Remove front diff. mounting bolt and nut.
Hold the diff with a jack, then remove left and right rear mounting bolts, lower differential out of truck. I'd recruit an extra set of hands for that step.
Installation is the opposite of removal. (duh)

Order a steel backed timing guide/chain kit from engnbldr.com so you will never have to clean broken plastic chain guides from the oil pan again. also, don't forget the hidden head bolt at the very front of the head. It is a 12mm and will be hidden in a puddle of oil right under the distributor shaft and threads into the top of the timing cover.

Joyota

Thanks for the quick, informative reply!

I found out that the Air Suction Reed Valve (AS Reed Valve) is also known as the PAIR Valve (Pulsed Secondary Air Injection System). It's available from Toyota for just $216.48 + tax! I think I'm going to go to the local Pick-N-Pull to see if I can find one there.

I had already purchased and installed the regular guides, so I'll ride with them for now. After winter, maybe I'll redo everything including a new cam, metal backed guides, new header, etc. But for now, I just need to get through the winter.

Nathan Buchanan

I put the regular plastic guides on mine a while ago. Nothing bad has happened yet. I figure they're allright to use; you can't expect everything to last 200k miles.

Joyota

In the Haynes manual, before installing the head, it states to "apply sealant to the 2 front corners of the block", where the seam between the block and timing cover meet. What type should I use? I just bought a tube of VersaChem Mega Grey O.E.M. Import Gasket Maker. It says it's a direct cross-reference for Toyota's part numbers:

00295-00102
00295-01281
00295-01208

Will this work, or do I need to get something else?

TIA,
Jovis

Joyota

Sorry to bump this, but I know someone has the answer to my last question. Anybody?

seaflea

never heard of the versachem. Probably good to use though. The manual is just looking for you to use some RTV type sealant there to prevent leaks. The versachem will probally work just fine