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88 PU's replacement wooden flatbed

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Old 09-23-2005, 06:39 PM
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88 PU's replacement wooden flatbed

I did consider where to put this post... if I guessed wrong, move it with my blessing.


After a lot of searching for tips here and seeing a few other posts looking for a simple bed replacement, I'll show you how bad mine was and a simple cheap and functional fix. This design for me will work fine, its tight, stable and in the correct dimensions to do the jobs I need to do; Haul hay bales, slab wood, lumber & supplies. I'm sure a few here don't need a metal flatbed, or can afford the expense of an aluminum or factory hardwood bed. This bed including the new lights cost me $100, including lunch coming back from lowes.

after picking at the tons of putty, I discovered not much metal. fortunately the cab is free of rust. A wooden cab just cant be done.


the bed floor however is 90% there and solid, so I worked with that as a base.

then I removed the sides and fender wells, and clipped off the really rusty bits.

next I put down a good 2x4 framework. I left the area above the wheels open. Measure the distance between the top of the leaf spring on the axle, and the frame bumper, you will see the truck can only sag about 5 or 6 inches max, so the 10 inches between the tire and the bed floor is enough. it will sag less once better springs are put on. the stud frame is held to the bed with 10 large carriage bolts set into the steel beds cross members.


then a simple plywood surface, with galvanized deck screws. I used a thin plywood for the time being (cheaper, and all I need for right now) but a better bed is made with 3/4 inch pressure treated plywood.


A set of new lights, some paint and its almost done.





I have a few other things to add to it, some stake side pocket straps so I can put on sides if I need them, and some marker lights. The fact that the base is the original steel bed floor is a plus, it gave me a solid place to bolt the wood frame to. the advantage of the plywood is, with 5 min and a screw drill, you can remove it and make repairs in the wheel areas easier. I also can better access the frame and keep the salt/mud off to prevent rust in bad places. And of a thicker top is needed, its easy to replace.
and, its very lightweight, that saves gas.

No not fancy or pretty, but form follows function; I can stack more hay bales on it easier than a standard bed, with no sides it makes a good work table. If all you need is a lightweight cheap durable and easy to repair flatbed, here it is.

sure... its ugly but ts paid for and gets 25 miles to the gallon.
who wouldn't be happy with it?
Old 09-23-2005, 06:46 PM
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not bad! function over form i say
Old 09-23-2005, 07:03 PM
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All you need now is a picknic table and a grill, I'll bring the dogs and
I had an 'ol '78 Chevy with a wooden bed once and that id what we did one day. Just screwed the table to the bed and went to the park. It was a funny sight six guys at the table cooking dogs as we drove through the camp ground to the next party.
Old 09-23-2005, 07:26 PM
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I could park it along the road and sell fruit off one side and BBQ hot dogs and burgers for sale on the other. all I need is an umbrella in the center!
Old 09-23-2005, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Nyqill Junkie
I could park it along the road and sell fruit off one side and BBQ hot dogs and burgers for sale on the other. all I need is an umbrella in the center!
Just remember to take down the umbrella before you drive, I lost mine to some low hanging branches. Now that was funnay!

BTW Love yer sig....Tom Waits is my favorite
Old 09-23-2005, 08:09 PM
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hey, i should do that i need a bed by this upcoming week sometime
Old 09-23-2005, 10:52 PM
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I forgot about the gas door.
I have to put in some small hinges and a fingerhole.
at some point I will find out of thats inspectable, if not I wil have to do some modification to it.

I an hoping the inspector just doesnt notice it.... they usually dont look at my junk that close.




I'm thinking of building a toolbox on the drivers side under the bed, attached to the underside. just big enough to hold the jack and tie downs.
it will need a lock, ya know how sticky peoples fingers can be.

I was going to build the bed narrow, like a step side is, and build wheel wells on top with tool boxes in front and behind, but I decided i can use the extra deck space more. I dont carry around tools anyway. I'd fill em with junk.

Last edited by Nyqill Junkie; 09-23-2005 at 10:57 PM.
Old 09-24-2005, 11:12 AM
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I added a "headboard" this morning, it just didnt look finished to me. This will keep me from denting up my roof.





it might be to light, if it proves to be I will make a new one with 4x4s.
Old 09-26-2005, 11:37 AM
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todays improvement... stake sides and a work light.

add another $27 to the running cost.





I plan on painting the stakes, but leaving the treated sideboards natural color.

no tailhagate, I dont use them whn I have one so I'm going to wait till I actually need one to design one.
Old 09-26-2005, 12:49 PM
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Do you wheel it? If so you may want to raise the sides a bit to allow more tire clearance...of course you could just use a chain saw I suppose...or an axe once you are on the trail...
Old 09-26-2005, 12:55 PM
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No the only use it gets is basic home and farmyard on road hauling.

If one wanted to go trail blazing... the basic metal bed is there under it, remove the 10 nuts holding it down and lift it off. watch out for the jagged edges.. lol
Old 09-29-2005, 06:05 AM
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Flatbeds are fun! Plus... what else do you do when the bed goes bad?
Old 09-29-2005, 09:56 AM
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huh-huh-huh wood!
its a stage, add :rockband:
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