GRNTACO

There is no water in the oil but it is losing water and there is no leaks. There is white steamy smoke coming out of the tail pipe. I am thinking it is the head gasket.

Any ideas?

Edit: oops it's a 85

AverysDad

sounds like it to me.............a compression test would probably confirm it

kyle_22r

take a whiff of it. if it smells like coolant, it's definitely the head gasket.

Unhappy99

Had an old kaiser jeep that was blowing steam out. Finally got around one morning to looking at it, and of course the radiator was low. Added a pitcher...still low...added another pitcher...still low. Went and got garden hose, stuck it in radiator and turned it on.

Went about checking plugs, carb, distributor, etc. Few minutes go by. Where the $%#*& is all that water going? Much to my surprise, pouring out the exhaust pipe. Blown head gaskets.

amusement

I had an 84 nissan pickup that was a "stanley steamer" from a blown head gasket. It was one of those 4 cyl Nap-Z engines that had 8 spark plugs.

I had a 79 ford courier that also became a stanley steamer.
I had a 72 Toyota Corona that was a stanley steamer too.

For a while, I though all engines were stanley steamers.

85runner

I would guess that your rings are ok since you aren't getting water in the oil...look at the good side!!!

weldpro

Yup - unfortunately your head gasket is through! However it is not a difficult job to do. Line up your parts get a completely free day take your time , and you will have no problems.
Two things to remember the hidden head bolt up front. Check your manual on disassembly. Also MARK your timing chain!!! Aside from this its a cake walk.
Good luck,
Richard

85runner

He's right. Now that I think of it, pick up the metal backed timing chain guide from enginebuilder. Then, you won't have to worry about the timing chain. www.engnbldr.com Aslo, if you have been thinking about a cam, this would be the time to do it. The head bolts hold the rocker assemblies on.

GRNTACO

Well, we got it all apart today and we found that the timing chain dampers are broken and the timing chain was rubbing on the housing. So we got a new chain and dampers. So now we have the oil pan, the timing cover with all the pulleys off. That is as far as we got due to Valentines Day

We didn't really mark the the timing chain. I marked the crank and the cam. I hope that will be alright. What are the chances the head is warped?

We should have it together tomorrow.

85runner

The crank and cam gears will have a dimple on them that corresponds with the bright links in the chain. If there are no brightlinks then I think there are 17 links on each side but don't just take my word for it.

Now, take those timing chain guides and the timing chain back to wherever you bought them and return them. If you keep them, you WILL be replacing them in 10-40k guaranteed. Order up a kit with a driver's side steel rail from Ted at www.engnbldr.com ($64). I know it will take a few days to ship, but it is worth the wait.

GRNTACO

That is a awesome site. I think I will just get it together for now but I would like to do some mods this winter like a new top end. This way we will be able to wheel it this summer and fix it up as we go.

I am now worried about the crank psoition vs. the cam position.

85runner

"Align the keyway in the crankshaft so that it points up and the "dot" mark on the camshaft sprocket is at the 12 o’ clock position. If they do not line up the first time, rotate the engine through one 180-degree cycle and they should line up" Here's the link: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/


I also did a head gasket writeup on www.pirate4x4.com So you don't have to click, I'll just cut and paste:

22re head gasket replacement.
I have looked and looked and looked and found nothing. So I had to do it without a guide. It's pretty easy. I suggest cleaning injectors at the same time. If you want cam, do that also. It helps to keep bolts and nuts in a labeled baggie for different parts of the motor.

Here's a general guide of what to do (this is more specific to an 85 22rec but is very simmilar on all 22re's):

1. Remove crossover tube. and drain coolant.
2. Remove the distributor and wires. Be careful not to scratch the shaft. haha scratch the shaft....
3. Remove power steering - take of the front 14mm bolt by the adjuster and the three 14mm bolts on the driver's side of the head. Revove the vacuum lines and label them. Keep the pump hooked up and attached to the bracket, just move the pump to the side of the engine compartment.
4. Remove upper radiator hose. Leave the TB on the plenum but detach it from the runners. Remove throttle cable. There are 2 12mm nuts and 4 12mm bolts. Also unbolt the EGR from the plenum - two 12mm bolts.
5. Label the vacuum lines you need to disconnect. There are 7 hoses you will need to remove from the TB though. Remove the connector that is hooked to the TPS. It will make removine the hoses easier. You will find that you can leave the majority of the vacuum lines hooked to the plenum. Just don't forget to take off all the things bolted to the valve cover that the vacuum lines are hooked to. You will need to remove the fuel line from the cold-start injector and remove the wire connector that is attached to it. Be careful, those connectors break easily. They are color coded for ease of reassembly but feel free to label them. I just write on them with a perm. marker. You will also need to take off the wire connectors that are attached to the stuff that used to be bolted to the valve cover.
6. After you pull the plenum, remove the connectors that are hooked to the injectors. Be careful, they break easily - label them too. Remove the fuel rail and get those injectors cleaned. Don't forget new grommets and o-rings. I have part numbers if you need them. Remember - the pulse thingy that attaches the fuel line to the rail has REVERSE threads.
7. Disconnect the rest of the wiring and move the harness so it is out of the way. One connector is hard to remove under the runners. To make removeing it easier, you can unbolt the 2 10mm bolts to get better access to the thing (don't know what its called) the connector is attached to.
8. You can leave the runners attached to the head if you want. If you remove them, don't forget the water connection on the underside of the runners in the center.
9. Unbolt the runners fron the head, and mark the remaining vacuum lines. Remove the metal vacuum line aparatus, then remove the runners. If you remove the runners, you will also have to remove the EGR.
10. Unbolt the manifolt heat shield and exhaust manifold. It helps to spray penetrating oil on the studs. If they break don't worry. They are easy to remove with an easy-out. Use a tie-down strap to hold the exhaust out of the way after you remove it.
11. Now unbolt the four bolts holding the valve cover on and remove the valve cover. You may need to remove the heater hoses for clearance.
12. Remove the metal water line that is attached to the back of the water pump on the driver's side. You can leave this water line attached to the head.
13. Loosen the cam gear bolt but leave it attached.
14. Using a 17mm socket, rotate the move via the crankshaft to TDC. Note where the dot in the cam gear is. If it is not at 12 o-clock. Rotate the motor 180 degrees. If there isn't a bright link over the dot on the cam gear, paint the link or mark it some how.
15. Remove the cam bolt and set the gear (with the chain still attached) in the chain guides. If the chain guides are broken, you will need to replace the chain guides and chain. There are plenty of write-ups on it so I won't go over that here.
16. There is a 12mm bolt burried in oil underneath where the cam bolt used to be that attaches the head to the timing chain cover. Remove it.
17. Now, in the correct pattern. Remove the head bolts in stages. See your manual. (The head bolts also hold the rocker arms in the head).
18. You can now remove the head. DO NOT PRY WHERE THE HEAD MEETS THE BLOCK!!! They show a good place to pry in my haynes manual but I can't describe it so you are on your own.

I will assume you know what to do from here. Make sure you torque everything correctly and make sure that your cam gear stays at the same place in the chain. Also, the injectors should rotate easily in the fuel rail. If they don't they will leak. Fires are cool, except when they are in your engine compartment.
You can buy a pretty comprehensive head gasket kit from engnbldr.com He ships fast, is well-priced, and easy to deal with.
This seems like a daunting task but it is actually easy. You can count on getting it done in two long nights in the garage, unless you really take your time.

GRNTACO

Awesome write-up. The 2 years of high school auto shop started to kick in the morning. TDC on the #1 piston is the key. While we were in there we adjusted the valves and cleaned the injectors and the intake and everything we could. A lot of new hoses and two new belts. None of the oil seals on the valves were leaking so we left them. Wire brushed piston tops and combustion chambers.

Our homemade chain wrench aided in the torquing of the crank pulley. We found all the torque specs that were important but guessed on some.

We should have it all together and fired up tomorrow after work. Run it for awhile and change the oil and flush the radiator and she should be good to go.