60k mile maintenance questions
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60k mile maintenance questions
I've done some of the 60k maintenance like spark plugs, brake pads (but the rotors need to be changed now), differential fluids, tranny fluid, and oil and oil filter.
I bought a timing belt since some have recommended changing it at 60k, but several dealerships and techs told me that the timing belts are thicker material for 99 and up. So, I could change it out at 90k.
I also bought a fuel filter, water thermo, and water pump.
Should I replace the water pump and thermo now or wait until the timing belt needs to be changed?
J
I bought a timing belt since some have recommended changing it at 60k, but several dealerships and techs told me that the timing belts are thicker material for 99 and up. So, I could change it out at 90k.
I also bought a fuel filter, water thermo, and water pump.
Should I replace the water pump and thermo now or wait until the timing belt needs to be changed?
J
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Yeah, you can wait on the timing belt to 90-100k. Don't bother with the water pump either. Get the belt and pump done at the same time because whoever does the belt is gonna have the front of the engine apart anyways so its just more convienient that way.
I'd change the fuel filter soon too, saw that you bought it, its pretty easy to do, just a little messy.
Oh yeah, check the PCV valve, take it out, shake it, if you don't hear a rattle, replace it, costs like $5 at the most.
Might want to look into cleaning the MAF and the throttle body too, also pretty easy. Just be careful around the throttle position sensor, its a spendy replacement (my dealer quoted $90) if you break it.
I'd change the fuel filter soon too, saw that you bought it, its pretty easy to do, just a little messy.
Oh yeah, check the PCV valve, take it out, shake it, if you don't hear a rattle, replace it, costs like $5 at the most.
Might want to look into cleaning the MAF and the throttle body too, also pretty easy. Just be careful around the throttle position sensor, its a spendy replacement (my dealer quoted $90) if you break it.
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Thanks, I'll check out the PCV valve and clean out the intake.
I changed the fuel filter, belts, and coolant today.
It seems to run better, but it takes a bit longer to start.
I'm pretty sure I got the filter on right (IN from fuel tank, OUT to engine).
J
I changed the fuel filter, belts, and coolant today.
It seems to run better, but it takes a bit longer to start.
I'm pretty sure I got the filter on right (IN from fuel tank, OUT to engine).
J
#7
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The 3.0 V6 and the later 3.4 V6 are both timing belts. Not sure about the new 2.7 I4 (probably also belt). From what I've read, when a timing belt goes, the engine stops. If a timing chain goes, the engine self destructs. (22R and 22RE engines) The 94 pickup was available with the 22RE (I4) or 3ZVE (V6) here in the states.
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22re timing chain issues.....
My '86 22re had a timing chain issue at 112k... I bought the vehicle with 99k on it.
The chain guides are plastic and a piece broke and fell into the bottom where the chain then proceeded to jump a tooth.
I had to replace 4 exhaust valves and two intake valves.
Then one - two years later I had a coolant leak into the the number two cylinder. I purchased a reworked 22r head and bolted it up. Good thing this happened because I was losing oil on startup because the machinists (A Holes), said they had replaced the valve seals and didnt.
RULE OF THUMB - Keep 50-50 antifreeze or better in the vehicle.
Always replace PLASTIC timing guides.
The motor now has 178k and runs better then my 1987 runner with a 22re, my guess is compression increased due to the reworked head being shaved.......
22Re is one kick butt motor......
Mike :confused:
The chain guides are plastic and a piece broke and fell into the bottom where the chain then proceeded to jump a tooth.
I had to replace 4 exhaust valves and two intake valves.
Then one - two years later I had a coolant leak into the the number two cylinder. I purchased a reworked 22r head and bolted it up. Good thing this happened because I was losing oil on startup because the machinists (A Holes), said they had replaced the valve seals and didnt.
RULE OF THUMB - Keep 50-50 antifreeze or better in the vehicle.
Always replace PLASTIC timing guides.
The motor now has 178k and runs better then my 1987 runner with a 22re, my guess is compression increased due to the reworked head being shaved.......
22Re is one kick butt motor......
Mike :confused:
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2.7L
The 2.7L has a timing chain also. It does not have screw type valve adjusters. Its really Diff. engine than the 22RE.
As for the timing belt on the V-6, 90k is ok for all Toyota's.
All V-6 models use a thicker and wider belt than the 4-Cyl.
Personally, in 15 plus years of wrenching , Ive never seen a Toyota V-6 belt break. Ive seen them with over 120k on the O.E.M. belt. Im sure that they would break given some crazy high miles.
But if your water pump is leaking at 60k, replace the belt too.
Its no good to re-use a T-belt. If You do make sure that its installed in the same direction that it came off.
Kxpaul.
As for the timing belt on the V-6, 90k is ok for all Toyota's.
All V-6 models use a thicker and wider belt than the 4-Cyl.
Personally, in 15 plus years of wrenching , Ive never seen a Toyota V-6 belt break. Ive seen them with over 120k on the O.E.M. belt. Im sure that they would break given some crazy high miles.
But if your water pump is leaking at 60k, replace the belt too.
Its no good to re-use a T-belt. If You do make sure that its installed in the same direction that it came off.
Kxpaul.
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What is the full list of tasks for a 60k mile maintenance? Does someone know specifically? And what would it cost to do yourself vs stealership?
Thanks
Danny
Thanks
Danny
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Originally Posted by dlotoy4runner
What is the full list of tasks for a 60k mile maintenance? Does someone know specifically? And what would it cost to do yourself vs stealership?
Thanks
Danny
Thanks
Danny
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