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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
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4wd, first time in awhile!
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lacey, WA
Posts: 3,992
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nothing is wrong, but in the future, DO NOT engage your 4wd on hard pavement. there is no center diff like in an AWD vehicle so it will bind when you turn, and can break parts.
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1998 tacoma, 3RZ-FE, 5 speed, 30x9.5R15 M/Ts past toys: 1984 4x2 1979 4x4 1991 4x4 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Hmm, I guess then I have to go to some dirt to get everything moving again?
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 645
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yes, only on loose or slippery surfaces. If you engage 4wd on pavement do not turn or it will bind.
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2000 Taco SR5 V6 5speed TRD Airaid MIT Vortex muffler DEI 2-way Extang Tuff Tonno III |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Alright cool. So is that probably what all the squeeking was?
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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What can I do about oiling everything? Because I know it could use some love.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lacey, WA
Posts: 3,992
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for the most part, you can just change the gear oil in the front differential. synthetic is good stuff but expensive and maybe not worth it in the front end if you don't run in 4wd a lot. you could always repack the wheel bearings and CV joints but that's usually something done as they wear out, not regular maintenace.
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1998 tacoma, 3RZ-FE, 5 speed, 30x9.5R15 M/Ts past toys: 1984 4x2 1979 4x4 1991 4x4 |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Alright cool. What is involved in changing the oil in the front differential? Any how to's? Sorry, again I am a beginner trying to learn, thanks for your patience.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 645
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Check out the "Tech write ups" section. You will find your info there.
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2000 Taco SR5 V6 5speed TRD Airaid MIT Vortex muffler DEI 2-way Extang Tuff Tonno III Last edited by TACOMANATOR; 09-08-2005 at 08:32 PM. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 177
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i've always thought it was ok to engage the 4wd on pavement to lube up the drive components ...as long as you are going straight.
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04 Tacoma Double Cab V6 4x4 SAW 2.0's Alcan 8 pack Bilstein 5125's Ion 171's (-27mm bs) 32x11.50x15' BFG AT's |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Contributing Member
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Quote:
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- Joe 1984 SR5 4runner, 22re, 5-speed, chevy 63"s, rears up front custom pack, BBCS shocks, 2" BL, 5.29's, welded rear, Detroit in front, Longfields, IFS Rear, 39.5x13.50x15 IROK's, Marlin's High Steer, MC07 with stock cases, Marlin's cross member, tube bumper, Warn XD9000, Allied Beadlocks 1999 Taco 2.7 5-speed, LCE Header, Jardine 2.25 Cat-Back, 3" Downey Coilover, 33x13.5 Toyo MT's, ARB Bull Bar, Retrofitted Acura TL HID Projectors with 50W ballasts and 50W DL50 Philips 3900k bulbs |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lacey, WA
Posts: 3,992
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just locking the hubs and driving will do a good job spinning everything in the front end around. my '79 owners manual recommends driving at least 10 miles per month with the hubs locked.
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1998 tacoma, 3RZ-FE, 5 speed, 30x9.5R15 M/Ts past toys: 1984 4x2 1979 4x4 1991 4x4 |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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If I recall correctly, the owner's manual recommends driving in 4WD 1/month for about 10 miles to keep everything lubed. I habitually do that on a day when the roads are good and wet on a particular section of road that is primarily straight for those 10 miles. It worked well for over 200,000 miles on my '90...
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'00 SR5, Desert Dune: 4" Deckplate, Amsoil TS-115, Bilsteins, Brembo rotors w/Performance Friction pads, Fiam Highway Blasters, Sylvania Silverstars, Hella Micro DE Fog Lights w/Hella Yellow Star Lamps - SOLD 1/24/09 '08 Sport, Salsa Red: Hella Optilux fogs, Silverstar Ultra Hi beams. Pending: Borla dual catback, CAI, shocks |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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That recommendation always seemed like a good excuse to go wheeling to me...but hey, whatever you like!
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www.toyotacrawlers.com '85 4runner: 4.7's, FoxFab sliders, custom bumpers, 1" body lift, F-150 springs rear, lockright, welded third, IFS rear axle, 1.5" wheel spacers, high-steer, rears up front, Longs, 38" SX's on steelies, 12Voltguy dual battery, soft top, BMW seats. NO LONGER lacking an engine. :D :D |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 210
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If he has locking hubs just put the transfer case in 4HI and leave the hubs unlocked. That will work the same as just locking the hubs. The problem I always had with just locking the hubs was I would forget them for a while which doesn't hurt anything except cause excess wear,but with the T/C in 4HI the little light stayed on as a reminder.
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