dstrick32

Anybody else having this problem?? The don't seem to last no time and the crank has been sleeved. Used three different brands of seals and it doesn't seem to make no difference!!

CrazyDiamond

Changing brands isn't going to help. If the rears keep going, it's because there is something off with the ass-end of the crank. Could have been sleeved incorrectly...could be warped (only seen that once). Either way, the brand of seal isn't likely to be your problem...your crank or seal mating surface is.

dstrick32

Thanks for the reply Crazy Diamond but this is the third crank and block that been in this truck and they have all had similar problems!!

CrazyDiamond

Wow...if that's the case, then maybe you have some bad karma. (no pun intended!)

BTW, what method are you using to install them exactly?

dstrick32

The plate has been pulled and seal installed on the bench using the block of wood and hammer method. Always lube seal before installing and very careful to not damage seal in the process. Just an eyeball look of the seal and crankshaft match up, it appears that the crank is not centered inside the seal but I have no viberations that I would contribute to a warped crank or an out of balance torque converter!! I'm in the process of pulling the engine now and will see if dropping the pan and replacing the seal piece will make any difference. Thanks for the reply!!

p5150

before you do that, you should take a look at your valve covers. The ones I got off of my core motor were so caked in ˟˟˟˟ that there was NO way they engine could pass any pcv. You might be pressurizing your crankcase and pushing oil out of the seals.

dstrick32

Thanks for the reply p5150, that was one of my first checks when this crap started. Got it out and pulled the flexplate where I could see what it looked like and the crank is definently not centered in the seal. Got pissed and quit but will see if I can find the reason fo it tomorrow.