Rich_O

The answer may be obvious. I did some searching but didn't find anything.

This is all for a 2000 4Runner V6 Automatic with 4.10 gears. I'm not changing the ratio, just replacing my worn out, noisy diff and thought I'd get a locker at the same time.

I have a new 3rd from Just Differentials with a TJM Locker. BTW Dealing with Jeff was great very helpful, and they got my 3rd shipped very quickly. Great deal (IMO) on the TJM right now. I like the design of the TJM. I like that the actuator piston could be replaced without taking apart the carrier, and that there are no O-ring air seals on moving surfaces like the ARB.

I think the answer to my plight may be obvious. I'm having trouble getting the new 3rd to go into the diff housing. I get it all lined up and the ring gear and/or ring gear carrier simply bump into the diff housing when I try to push it on. Sure the TJM is a different carrier from stock, but it doesn't appear to be any more bulky.

Has anybody else run into this obstacle? Is there a trick I'm not seeing?
After this afternoon, I wonder if I could even put the stock 3rd back in?

BeMiceElf

iTrader: (1)

Some pics would probably help.

Do you still have your old third member to compare them?

From my understanding TJM just came back into the US market. Not sure if their locker design has changed or not, but there might not be much info. on this application.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Contact Just Differentials is where you should start.

:wabbit2:

Rich_O

Sorry, I've done a lot of work on cars, just not this particular operation. There sure isn't any extra room in this assembly.

In doing comparisons, the TJM carrier doesn't look any more bulky in the ring carrier which is where I think I'm having the problem.

I'll post some pictures if I don't make progress here soon.

I'm just noticing that the cutout in the top of the diff housing is offset to the left when looking toward the rear of the vehicle at the diff housing opening. The one on the bottom is lined up with where the ring gear goes. I think I need to rotate the 3rd counter clockwise to get the ring gear in through that top cutout, then straighten it up to get the studs lined up with the holes.

Yep, have an email in to JD and will call if I need to.

Thanks

aowRS

That seems to make sense.


Andreas

Rich_O

Ha ha, I wish it made sense. I mis-spoke (mis-wrote) when I wrote that. I wasn't looking at it right.

Those existing cutouts are exactly where the ring gear slips in when the 3rd member housing is lined up perfectly to be pushed onto the diff housing. That is, line up the holes on the 3rd with the studs on the housing....push straight back. That's how it should go together.

I ended up having to grind similar cutouts for the shoulder of the ring gear carrier and for the bearing caps on the sides. I used a 4inch angle grinder and found that the diff housing is soft steel and cuts pretty easy. The grinder leaves some monster burrs so I used a dremel to clean those up.

Last test fit looked good except the bottom is about 1/8th inch shy of contact. The top makes contact. I didn't try to pull it in with the bolts and I couldn't push it in by hand. I'll look at it again in the morning when the light is good and give an update and post pictures when I can.

If they would have made the whole thing just 1/8 inch bigger, it would have saved countless headaches for people repairing or modifying these differentials.

aowRS

Looking forward to some pics.


Andreas

Rich_O

Grinding my day away.

Grind, test fit see the mark where something hits the housing.

Grind, test fit see the mark where something else hits the housing.

Grind, test fit see the mark where something else hits the housing.

etc.

etc.

Oooh, I just love using that 10000 rpm grinder, lying on my back under the truck too. It's like lighting a stick of dynamite then holding it close to my face.

I'm getting used to it though. Just hold 'er steady like a dentist, and be aware of where all your parts are. Let it stop completely before pulling it out of the housing, etc.

Somebody who's done a few of these would probably aggressively grind the housing right away. Especially that inside lip where the dome is welded on the back. Also, at this point, is seems like it might have been worthwhile to pull the whole differential out to get it all done...if I had known. Of course I was expecting a quick bolt-in installation, but have since heard that it's not all that unusual to have to do some grinding.