Dr. Zhivago

Okay Guys,

The text at the top of Page 2 has been updated to clarify what it is we are removing from the intake path on the 96-98 trucks. Also, the Tee location on the Intake Plenum has been circled in Red on the Pics. Let's thank Corey for his help and willingness to keep up with all these changes.

Here's the article.

Okay, now I am outy. I will see you guys later.
Galen

PS Thank you J for your help too.

Dr. Zhivago

Hey Philly,

The original setup works well. The nipple on the plenum escaped my first run thru on this mod, and the EVAP hose was conveniently in front of the FPR hose, so I went with that. There is no harm in going that route. But as they say (or is it Jayson who says this?) Hindsight is 20/20.

Call me nit picky or obsessive if you want, but since I had modified my engine to move a lot more air thru it, that meant I had to supply more fuel. One way to do this is to supply more fuel pressure, which some of may you have read about Gadget and his using the BAP (Boost-A-Pump) to boost his fuel pressure to meet the demands of the Supercharger forcing more air into the engine.

The BAP seemed excessive for what I wanted to achieve. After mulling this over for a while, I noticed the small hose coming out of the intake plenum. Since it was post throttle body, I thought it might be better for supplying the FPR with a engine load signal than the EVAP hose.

I bought the necessary parts to try it out to see if I would notice a difference. I did. Not a huge difference, but there seemed to me to be a "plateauing" of power above 4000 RPM's prior to the new FPR setup. It felt like it was Leaning Out. Now, the transition of power above 4000 seems to be much smoother and the engine does not "flatten out" any more.

I don't know how many of you run your engines to redline on a regular basis, but I do. I listen accutely to what the engine is doing while doing this. Partly because I am still in a testing phase for certain things and partly because I am a maniac. :eek:

Here's a picture of a Dyno run illustrating the "plateau":



Notice how the Standard Power Dyno Run flattens out above 4K. The Unichip Run illustrates what I'm talking about by supplying more Fuel Pressure. The result of what I did isn't as dramatic as the difference between the Unichip run and the Standard run, but it is noticeable.

Unless you run your engine above 4000 RPM's, you will probably not notice a difference between the original FPR setup that I recommended and the new one. However, for appearance reasons and for the best performance at the extreme top end of the engine's RPM range, the new setup is the way to go.

Speaking of the Unichip, I'm probably going to get one next year. They're about $700 installed. HP and Torque gains of about 10-15% of useable power are common. Fuel economy is usually improved at the same time as the engine is adjusted for both efficiency under "Normal" driving and for maximum power under full throttle.

If you want to read more about the Unichip, you can do so here.

Well, hope that helps explain what I was thinking and why I changed things.

Peace!
Dr. Z

Dr. Zhivago

You're welcome, dude.

*Whips horse carcass mercilessly*


Dr. Z

CBDenver

All,

I have a 97 3.4L with the silencer box with (2) hoses.

Thanks to Dr. Z and Jayson for all the help on this. I routed the "front" hose (PSP) into a T in the airbox/Evap line.

On the FPR line, I got lucky. My plenum had the small line coming off the front as everyone's, but mine had a right angle closed off nipple on the left side that was unused, so I just put the FPR line onto that. Everyone with this year and engine, might peek and see if you have that unsed nipple on there. No nipple should go unused..... LOL

As of now I have both silencer boxes closed off, and the J tube open. I'm searching for a shop to do a pipe in the Denver area.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Chris

Glassjaw19

all the MAF and PSP AND FPG is giving me a headache because its spinnning my head around in circles. I am lost. T this and T that. Argh, everyone seems to be tottally understanding this but me. Okay lets see here, I have a 97 SR5. It has the 2 tube silencer box. As well as the J shapped resonator and the other box opposite the Silencer with the 2 tubes coming out of it. Now, to start off slowly here, I take off the J shapped box, the opposite side Box and the main box with the 2 tubes coming from it. I got that, okay..now...That means I have 2 tubes that are free, both of these tubes use to connect to the Silencer. 1 Tube is coming from the PSP and the other one is coming from the FPR. I understand that. Now ALL I HAVE TO DO IS CONNECT THESE 2 TUBES TOGETHER SO THAT THEY = 1 TUBE RIGHT? Is that all? So why the use of the T's? Couldn't I just purchase 1 long tube and connect the PSP to the FPR? Cuse in a sense, it is already connect via the Silencer. This where I am stuck. Can someone explain to me in plain english. I want to do this so badly...but I'm stuck.

RidgeRunner

Glassjaw, I have the same setup as you and it sounds like you're right on except for the very last. You'll still need to connect that line into the plenum. I did it with one tee, one side to the PSP, center to the FSP and the right side to the extra plenum nipple after I uncapped it.

It's a little larger in size so I used a slightly larger hose on that one but you could probably put a clamp on it to hold it on.

I had already cut my airbox/evap hose so I replaced it with a new hose, 5/16"

Hope this helps.

Mick

RidgeRunner

Sorry, I meant FPR above, not FSP.:pat:

Mick