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#51 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2
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this is a great thread but im having problems
![]() 2000 4Runner Auto LTD... i got the 2 starter bolts loose from the bottom with 14mm breaker bar... are they supposed to pull out? mine are stuck in still ![]() ![]() 1. 12mm to remove the brake line? 2. 12mm to remove the atf? 3. some stupid metal bracket is right in front of starter, making it real hard for me to slide up to even begin the tetris... help me please, there is no stinking room in this giant car..... ![]() |
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#52 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 325
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take 1 the brake line bracket, unbolt it 12mm, and bend and yank it over the rail toward you,
that gives room to tetris the starter downward toward the steering underneath the metal brake lines are coiled up to allow you to do this without damage don't worry about 2 the dipstick but if you can separate it, it helps 3 is not in the way, wathcatalkinabout ? when you bend the brake line forward it'll be fine. yes the 2 14mm starter bolts should both come out straight toward the back. you should have cuts on your arms [like you been sorting bobcats] when done ![]() Last edited by BigBallsMcFalls : 07-30-2008 at 05:56 AM. |
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#53 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2
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thank you bigballs
![]() took way too long and not worth saving the money for me.. but was a great learning experience -breaker bar thru side wall for 14mm top bolt -breaker bar thru bottom for 14mm bottom bolt -12mm brake line @#$#$ spot for a bolt -12mm atf from top -move brake line over rail ![]() -pull starter toward front of car, then tetris out per pictures... |
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#54 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 4
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Starter Repair 96 Runner
Finally after 274k miles I get to work on my ride!! Starter would only click when turning key. Found this writeup, Thanks for the info. Wanted to add that if you have about 2 feet of rachet extensions you don't have to remove exhaust bracket.
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#55 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: South Texas
Posts: 19
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I just went through the starter removal and this is how i did it, very easy when i figured it out. I've read the removals and i think that some of them are too complicated.
Break the starter bolts. (use 2 long extensions 6" or more with 1/2 drive/and the largest ratchet you have, use a cheater if you can. Will also need a swivel. bottom one is easy, top a little harder. angle the extension as level as you can from the top bolt through the crossmember and out, this will give you the best angle. remove the trans stick, unbolt the brakeline. Here is wher I did it a little different (take the brake line and ziptie it to the left side of the wheel well (there are a/c (?) lines thereif you are looking straight into the wheel well at the starter) this makes it much easier took 5 minutes to pull it out after unbolting and turning the starter around. also, when you unhook the wheel well mudflaps that keep debris from getting in the engine compartment to get to the starter, unhook the ones at the front of the wheel well (you can put your arms through and get both sides of the starter to flip it around and pull it through the hole(like the picture above, but with the brakeline to the left(much easier)) took me ten minutes total to pull out and put back in (without bolts of course) don't overthink this, it is actually very simple and i believe that the dealerhip does it this way. toyotas are very well thought out as far as design, if it something appears to be complex then it is probably you that is making it that way. except that our hands are twice the size of an japaness auto worker |
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