bamachem

scratch that.

i'm officially double-locked and geared....

i got the new diff in with no problem at all. only about 5 minutes literally from the time it was on the floor to the time it was resting in the correct postion. by the time i got all the vacuum stuff connected, the wiring, the CV's lined up, the lower ball joints back on the spindles, and then the driveshaft connected was another hour-plus. after that, i had some trouble getting the CV's to re-seat, but a little leverage and some oomph and they snapped back into place. i then filled the front diff (no, i didn't forget), checked for leaks, backed it out of the garage and went for a 4-hi spin around the block. after that, i came back and tackled the plumbing for the ARB and installed the second solenoid and the second switch in the dash. everything checked out fine. at some point i'm going to rewire it to use the OEM FZJ-80 locker switch that i have. the nice thing about the multi-mode 4WD is that i'll just run the first 500 miles in AWD to break in the front and rear together.

the difference in gearing is very noticeable and very nice. BIG change from the 4.10's. the 4.56's feel very good so far, but i haven't put any time on them yet except the one trip to the store yesterday and the spin around the block tonight... my gut feeling is that they'll be just right for mixed driving.

that was a big job, but rewarding in the long run. now to pull that SC and get back on some good ole 87 octane...

mtxride

ahh double locked and 4.56's... maybe one day i'll be there. now while you're at it, you might as well put on some ome's up front and sell me those trd/bilstiens!!

KZN185W

iTrader: (1)

Congratulations!!

Wouldn't it be better if you leave the TRD S/C on? That way you get improved acceleration (4.56) + torque (S/C).

bamachem

well, there's several reasons.

1. i rarely get over 3k rpm, so essentially, i'm getting very little boost, and therefore very little use from the SC.

2. i had the SC to give me more torque on the highway so i wouldn't have to immediately regear. now that i've regeared, it's not needed.

3. if i take it off, i'll get ~$1300 for it AND gas will be $0.20/gal cheaper since i won't have to run 93 octane anymore.

so, since i regeared, i probally won't really miss it, i'll get $1300 back (essentially pays for the regear AND locker), and gas will be cheaper, AND the big one is that i won't be spending MORE money on a valve body upgrade and a URD kit. those two alone are about $1400. the way i see it, the regear is saving me a TON of money in the long run by getting the SC off.

RTdawgs

Great news Andy. Please do one final post after you take off the supercharger of your overall impressions, thanks!

bamachem

will-do...

keisur

More like 60# each.

bamachem

according to UPS, it was 88# with minimal packaging(less than 3#) BEFORE the ARB went in, and the ARB is heavier than the stock differential.

keisur

Randy's were only 60#'s when they sent me mine in double corrugated boxes and the form foam packing. the return shipping labels they sent me were for 60#'s too. sure didn't feel like 90#'s when I lifted them either, maybe I'm just stronger then I think I am.

bamachem

lol... yu funnay guy...

either way, dang heavy....


________________________________________________


for the rest of you...

the SC is off and i took it for a spin. it's really not THAT much difference when comparing the SC'd 4.10's to the 4.56's. not much at all. i can tell there's a tiny bit of lost torque in the higher RPM's, but for the most part, i really don't think i'll miss it at all. if i do, then i'll just get another one later. it only took me an hour and twenty minutes to pull it. i could install it that quick as well since i know where everything goes.

in all, i'd say that the 305's w/ the 4.56's is almost identical to the "feel" of a stock runner on 265/70's and 4.10's. it's fine for normal "adult" driving, but it's no speed demon. it's probally a touch slower on take-off w/ the greater weight of the tires, but in all, not bad at all and very tolerable. i won't be driving it much until i get the gears broken in since my commute is 60 miles each way and pretty much all interstate. i should put the 500 or so miles on it in the next month or so, then i'll drive it a few days and check the gas mileage and compare that to what i was getting w/ the SC.

RTdawgs

Yea baby

bamachem

ok, a few more miles on the gears. i took it to a field yesterday to "exercise" the lockers a little to make sure they're engaging. everything checked out fine.

the first handful of miles on the new gears, they were VERY tight. like providing rolling resistance - tight. not bad. after about 30 or so miles now at short intervals w/ cooling in between, they've loosened up considerably - pretty much back to normal i guess. the only strange thing that i'm feeling is some torque-steer in the front when in multi-mode. that was never there before. my guess is that the front ARB is still kinda tight, acting almost like a limited slip when disengaged. it should loosen up somewhat, and if it doesn't, it's still not bad at all since i only feel it when in AWD and on the street.

overall feel is almost identical to the 4.10's w/ the SC now that i've had some more seat time. the only difference is now there's a slight flat-spot above 3k rpm where the SC had the boost covered before. since i very very rarely get that high on the rpm's i really REALLY don't miss it one bit. i'd MUCH rather have the gears w/ the front & rear ARB lockers than the SC & fuel mods anyday.

bamachem

RT: here's those pics you wanted...

RTdawgs

<---- Jealous.

bamachem

lol funny how the tables have turned. about 3 years ago, i had a bone stock runner and was jealous of yours...

your webpage was one of the first one's that i found at the time w/ all the pics of a 3rd gen sport w/ all the mods...

BajaRunner

Andy -- How much did it cost to get your gears installed?

jacksonpt

Any rubbing in the back? The only place I rub is on the frame rails at full turn, partial stuff. I had debated about going with the 1" BL, but would have kicked myself if the 1"er didn't clear my 33s.

bamachem

both were bench-installs into some donor "shells" that i bought to cut down on shop costs.

front and rear were $150 each. that was with all new bearings, races, shims, etc that were provided by the front and rear Master Install Kits. I went for Yukons, and ended up getting Precision Fronts and Richmond Rears. Gears and 2 MIK's were $501 shipped. That was also the cost of installing the two ARB Lockers in the shells and drilling and tapping the front housing for the fitting (the rear was already drilled and tapped).

the ONLY place they rub is ever so slighlty on the frame rail in the front on a full-turned stuff and in the rear on the hex-head mud flap bolt. i'm going to change that out to a flat or rounded head and it will be fine. right now the head catches on the lugs and makes it a fart-o-matic on a rear full stuff.

i'm probally going to put in some 3/8" trim spacers on my body lift. i have a ton of 2" diameter discs left over from having the spacers cut from HDPE, so all i'd have to do is drill the hole in the middle and then install a set all the way around for a touch more clearance.

i'm also going to eventually add a 1/2" or maybe even 3/4" spacer in the rear to get it at the correct stance. it's about a 1/4" lower in the rear at the moment from the extra weight back there (hi-lift, sub enclosure, 285 spare, etc).

keisur

that's about $300 less than mine were pre-built from Randy's ($2200 for gears, lockers, housings, MIK's, and compressor). To this day I wish I'd a done it the way you did it since my mail-order experience with them left alot to be desired.

RTdawgs

HAHA never heard that!