3 inch OME lift kit questions
#1
3 inch OME lift kit questions
I ordered the full 3inch OME lift kit with the diff drop and after asking some questions to the supplier they said I wouldn't need anything extra. However, my buddy who has a jeep cherokee is telling me I will need brake line extensions and a drift shaft stabilizer and other things. If someone could please help me out and just let me know what they did for their 3 inch lift rig. I have a 2000 4runner SR5. Will I NEED the brake line extension? will I need a drift shaft stabilizer? pleas help asap!
#2
Also, been reading up on some people talking about needing the panhard drop kit but I didn't think it would be needed. Just wanted to add some height to my stock 4runner. Please let me know if I need anything else for the 3 inch lift and if it takes a lot more than just installing the 'kit' then should I just do a two inch lift?
#3
I have that exact kit currently, with new shocks all the way round and didn't need any of that stuff.
Depending on the tire you are running, you may have to trim the front bumper fascia and might rub on the fender flare screws.
Depending on the tire you are running, you may have to trim the front bumper fascia and might rub on the fender flare screws.
Last edited by UTAH98Limited; 09-06-2012 at 06:06 PM.
#6
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I'd suggest a longer rear brake line. Definitely no on the panhard drop bracket as it's not effective, get the adjustable panhard bar from Sonoran Steel if anything. I'm going to buy one eventually b/c when you lift the rear of the vehicle the stock panhard bar will cause the rear end to shift about 3/4" so an adjustable bar will allow it to realign properly. No steering or driveshaft stuff needed.
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#8
I question that daily haha. He has done a lift or two with jeep guys and wanted to do my own. I may just stick with a two inch lift and after college/job I'll invest in doing a full 3 inch with the pan hard investment. Don't wanna mess up a rig without having everything I need from the start.
#9
I'd suggest a longer rear brake line. Definitely no on the panhard drop bracket as it's not effective, get the adjustable panhard bar from Sonoran Steel if anything. I'm going to buy one eventually b/c when you lift the rear of the vehicle the stock panhard bar will cause the rear end to shift about 3/4" so an adjustable bar will allow it to realign properly. No steering or driveshaft stuff needed.
#10
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rear brake lines ya. new shocks,,,,, tell the jeep guy to buy a toyota and torch the jeep.... dont expect 3in of actual lift ether. i have my sway bar in front removed. its not a race car. thats what the corvettes for
#12
My 4runner is 134k miles young and his jeep has 150k but needs more tender care. 4runner>Jeep anyday. I am basiclaly just building this for sand use by the beach but when I head back to Appalachian I'll get to test it out more.
#13
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I put the OME 3 inch lift on the rear of my 2000 LTD and did not use the extended brake line or modify/drop the panhard bar. I measured about a 1/8" shift in the rear axle, but have not noticed any difference in the drive quality.
#14
If you are going for a full 3" of lift all around.....
I may want to invest in the diff drop, but it is not entirely needed.
The front lift will take away the ability to bring the caster back into spec using the OE cams. This will cause wandering/ loose feeling steering. You can have the alignment shop max out the cams and live with it or opt for some aftermarket upper control arms that have added caster built in.
The rear lift someone already mentioned the trac bar... Not totally needed but it is nice to re-center the rear axle. The real issue is you will create disharmony between the slope on the drive shaft compared to the slope on the pinion. Ideal difference on slope on a double cardan shaft between the pinion and shaft is 0-1 degrees. The 3" lift, unloaded will bring the difference upwards of 7 degrees. To fix this you will need adjustable upper or lower control arms. Left alone, it will cause drive line vibrations and eventually destroy the rear u joint and possibly the pinion bearing and our output bearing in the transfer case. I managed to destroy a new u joint in less than 3000 miles, but the speed limit here in MI is 70. At lower freeway speeds the drive line vibes may not present themselves as mine were non existent below 60 MPH.
I may want to invest in the diff drop, but it is not entirely needed.
The front lift will take away the ability to bring the caster back into spec using the OE cams. This will cause wandering/ loose feeling steering. You can have the alignment shop max out the cams and live with it or opt for some aftermarket upper control arms that have added caster built in.
The rear lift someone already mentioned the trac bar... Not totally needed but it is nice to re-center the rear axle. The real issue is you will create disharmony between the slope on the drive shaft compared to the slope on the pinion. Ideal difference on slope on a double cardan shaft between the pinion and shaft is 0-1 degrees. The 3" lift, unloaded will bring the difference upwards of 7 degrees. To fix this you will need adjustable upper or lower control arms. Left alone, it will cause drive line vibrations and eventually destroy the rear u joint and possibly the pinion bearing and our output bearing in the transfer case. I managed to destroy a new u joint in less than 3000 miles, but the speed limit here in MI is 70. At lower freeway speeds the drive line vibes may not present themselves as mine were non existent below 60 MPH.
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