Tragic Drive

So Ive recently put a 3.4 in my 95Runner and as we were loading the truck into the trailer heading to the exhaust shop gas started dripping under the truck. It was a good amount of gas more like a stream instead of a drip. So we shut the truck off and pushed her back out and lifted the hood to find gas coming out of the vent tube of the charcaol canister.


I think I had the lines hooked up backwards that go the fuel tank but I'm still not sure. On my original canister there are two ports one reads "To fuel Tank" and the other Reads " purge". I hooked the fuel return from the 3.4 to the line that was on "To fuel tank" and the one from the Charcoal canister to the line that was hooked up to purge..I've since switched them and everything seems fine but I wonder if I ruined my new charcoal canister by saturating it with fuel. Can someone help me out ??

MTL_4runner

If you filled it completely with fuel it may not be ruined but it will take a long time to dry out and function correctly....it may throw a code if you have OBD II hooked up too. Sounds like you just had the two lines crossed if it is not overflowing now.

hektikwon

Man, tragic. I will learn from your mistake. I'm about to put my 3.4 canister on in a couple of days so let me know if you find the correct hookup.

hektikwon

Where did you get the braided line for the clutch?

mt_goat

I was planning on using my original 1993 charcoal canister with a 3.4 engine from a 2001 Taco, was there a problem throwing codes with using your original can?

hektikwon

I haven't put it in yet. But I wouldn't chance it. I thought about it to for a second cause the 3.4 4x4 canister looks complicated but I just decided to get the 3.4 canister. Cost me $40 shipped.

hektikwon

Do you have a service manual? They show how some of the lines on the canister hook up.

hektikwon

By the way there are 2 fuel line near the steel inlet line. The one closest to the inlet is the return line. The one closest to the passenger fender wall is for the canister. Hope that helps.

mt_goat

Mike @ORS told me he has had success using the original can so I was going to try that route. Where did you score a 3.4 can for $40 those things are scarce as hen's teeth?

rimpainter.com

By the way, the pictured canister is the older one, which will make the buzzing noise during EVAP. I don't really care about the noise, but if possible, you swap guys should try and get the canister with the buzz-reduction modification, which should be 97+.

hektikwon

Got one from ebay. the only one I could find. They call it a fuel vapor canistor. Good luck.

Tragic Drive

Well that is how I had it hooked up originally. You can see the blue vaccum line (close to the fire wall) in my 2nd picture that is hooked up to the canister. The black gas line is hooked up to the fuel return on the motor.

When I applied air to the line on the firewall you could hear bubbles coming from the tank so that line is submerged. When I applied air to the line farther away from the firewall you could hear the air in the tank so that line is not submerged.

I think I should have orignally hooked up the canister to the line that is not submerged and the fuel return to the line that is submerged. The way the lines are in the picture I believe are incorrect.

hektikwon, The braided line comes with the Downey headers. As far as the canister is concerned I would have rather used my original but this one came with the motor so it wasnt a big deal. But it definatley takes up underhood realestate the newer (97+) buzz free ones are smaller.

Tragic Drive

So , I can finally wrap this thread up. After 50 miles so far no fuel coming thru the canister. Thanks, You guys for the help.

hektikwon

How did you get your engine harness to stretch all the way to the hole on the firewall? I couldn't and just stuck the old boot on there where it goes inside.

Tragic Drive

Yeah this had me stumped for a while until I started unwrapping the factory tape. I was able to free up about 5 to 6 inches and was able to get the 3.4 boot to match up to the firewall. I then had to drill new holes for the 3.4's boot and I used some FPG to seal the deal.
There is really not that much wire to connect to ECU its a very tight fit. I have the part numbers for the molex connectors that plug into the ECU and I will build some extensions so I can mount the ECU in a better location. Its in the facory location right now but the factory brackets wont line up to properly mount it. Here is the after picture of what my pass side floor looks like I had to trim a few inches form the kick panel so It would fit. You really cant even tell.

hektikwon

I got my wire to go to the hole today. I had to cut some tape off then covered the exposed wires with electric tape. If you turn your ECU to have the plugs up and tilt it towards the firewall you can use the small bracket that has the notched part on it and screw it in. I had to remove the white bracket that held the body plugs in place to let them move freely. The fixed screw thingy that the kick panel screws on should hold the top in place snug.

midiwall

(older thread informational add-on!)

If you don't want to bother with the canister swap, and the noise bugs you, then when you kill the engine, pop the fuel filler door, open the gas cap, and let the pressure equalize. The buzzing/wheezing will stop. It could start again though if it's warm out - the air in the tank will heat up, expand, and create pressure at the evap canister.