3.4 Swap: BL or Cowel hood?
#1
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3.4 Swap: BL or Cowel hood?
I'm looking into the 3.4 swap but am unsure on this issue. Would you guys rather do a 2" body lift or some sort of custom hood? Give me the reasoning behind your response as well.
I'm leaning towards the hood because I'm not sure if I really want another 2" of lift on top of my 3-4" I have now. Also if you would rather do a cowel hood let me know where you would get it. Thanks!
I'm leaning towards the hood because I'm not sure if I really want another 2" of lift on top of my 3-4" I have now. Also if you would rather do a cowel hood let me know where you would get it. Thanks!
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i would go with a cowl hood. i know of a couple places that sell them...
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#3
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Originally Posted by WSU4runner
I'm looking into the 3.4 swap but am unsure on this issue. Would you guys rather do a 2" body lift or some sort of custom hood? Give me the reasoning behind your response as well.
I'm leaning towards the hood because I'm not sure if I really want another 2" of lift on top of my 3-4" I have now. Also if you would rather do a cowel hood let me know where you would get it. Thanks!
I'm leaning towards the hood because I'm not sure if I really want another 2" of lift on top of my 3-4" I have now. Also if you would rather do a cowel hood let me know where you would get it. Thanks!
I think it comes down to more personal preference (if you don't like the look of the hood or it is too $$$$, do the BL instead).
#4
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Let's see ...
Hood scoop: looks cool if done right, looks trashy if not, gives a hint that there's probably something different under the hood, less to mess with (rad placment, steering shaft, shifter linkage, body gap, fuel filler)
Body lift: added tire clearance, keeps the secret under the hood, body to frame gaps, radiator placement becomes an issue that can be solved by dropping the rad, or going to an electric fan, steering shaft spacer will be needed, can lift the rear of the drivetrain for a little more clearance, have to extend the fuel filler tube (this is easy)
I ended up going with the body lift for a few reasons. Mainly I didn't want to give away the secret under the hood, and I like the stock look. I went with leaving the rad in the stock location and going with an electric fan. This propagates the stock look since when you pop the hood the rad is at the correct height. When I got it done I showed it to a couple of the Toyota guys from my club and I said, "I did a little change under the hood, here, take a look." The one guy caught on, and the other guy thought that the only thing I did was the ISR. It looks so close to a stock 3.4l engine bay that I actually had to remind him that he was looking at a 2nd gen 4Runner. Another reason I went with the body lift is that I didn't plan on going with a 4"-5" suspension lift, so this gives me close to 4" of total lift. Comparing my truck with a friends who has a ProComp 4" lift they're the same height in the front and mine sits about an inch taller in the rear. I can run my 33x10.50's with four chains and do a full stuff and the chains don't tear anything up. I could probably run 33x12.50's but that's another debate I won't get into here.
Hope this was useful in your decision making.
Hood scoop: looks cool if done right, looks trashy if not, gives a hint that there's probably something different under the hood, less to mess with (rad placment, steering shaft, shifter linkage, body gap, fuel filler)
Body lift: added tire clearance, keeps the secret under the hood, body to frame gaps, radiator placement becomes an issue that can be solved by dropping the rad, or going to an electric fan, steering shaft spacer will be needed, can lift the rear of the drivetrain for a little more clearance, have to extend the fuel filler tube (this is easy)
I ended up going with the body lift for a few reasons. Mainly I didn't want to give away the secret under the hood, and I like the stock look. I went with leaving the rad in the stock location and going with an electric fan. This propagates the stock look since when you pop the hood the rad is at the correct height. When I got it done I showed it to a couple of the Toyota guys from my club and I said, "I did a little change under the hood, here, take a look." The one guy caught on, and the other guy thought that the only thing I did was the ISR. It looks so close to a stock 3.4l engine bay that I actually had to remind him that he was looking at a 2nd gen 4Runner. Another reason I went with the body lift is that I didn't plan on going with a 4"-5" suspension lift, so this gives me close to 4" of total lift. Comparing my truck with a friends who has a ProComp 4" lift they're the same height in the front and mine sits about an inch taller in the rear. I can run my 33x10.50's with four chains and do a full stuff and the chains don't tear anything up. I could probably run 33x12.50's but that's another debate I won't get into here.
Hope this was useful in your decision making.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
I have a 1" bodylift and it is barely enough.
I plan to add a scoop for the supercharger.
Nothing is cooler than non-functional hoodscoops.
I plan to add a scoop for the supercharger.
Nothing is cooler than non-functional hoodscoops.
#9
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Well, you COULD buy an adapter from me that allows you to bolt
the upper intake manifold directly to the web(removing the lower
portion of the intake manifold). That would remove about 3" of
height from the manifold. You wouldent need a cowl or a lift kit
This is in the works right now. Keep in mind this is only a quick
sketch and the real adapter will be cut from billet allumium. The
adapter is iintended for the MR2/celica community who are
installing 5VZ's into cars and need the extra room so the hood
will clear, but it would work on your truck aswell.
From our best estimates you will loose about 3ftlbs or torque
in the middle of your power band due to the shorter intake
however, you may gain some power up top. We wont know
till I take the MRtruck to the dyno and try it with the stock
manifold and the shortened one.
Sales@svengineering.org
the upper intake manifold directly to the web(removing the lower
portion of the intake manifold). That would remove about 3" of
height from the manifold. You wouldent need a cowl or a lift kit
This is in the works right now. Keep in mind this is only a quick
sketch and the real adapter will be cut from billet allumium. The
adapter is iintended for the MR2/celica community who are
installing 5VZ's into cars and need the extra room so the hood
will clear, but it would work on your truck aswell.
From our best estimates you will loose about 3ftlbs or torque
in the middle of your power band due to the shorter intake
however, you may gain some power up top. We wont know
till I take the MRtruck to the dyno and try it with the stock
manifold and the shortened one.
Sales@svengineering.org
Last edited by node; 03-17-2005 at 07:35 AM.
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depending on how thick they need to be im going to try to get the adapter by itself down to around $50.
I was planning on selling a kit with the adapter, turbo manifolds with 3/8" header plates and transverse motor mounts as well as the rest of the components required to bolt the engine to the S54 or E153 in a celica or MR2. I will also be offering MAF hack adapters that will allow you to use the later model 5VZ MAF with several different size injectors.
You may want the header plates too so you can make your own headers. There is lots of power to be made there.
I was planning on selling a kit with the adapter, turbo manifolds with 3/8" header plates and transverse motor mounts as well as the rest of the components required to bolt the engine to the S54 or E153 in a celica or MR2. I will also be offering MAF hack adapters that will allow you to use the later model 5VZ MAF with several different size injectors.
You may want the header plates too so you can make your own headers. There is lots of power to be made there.
#13
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Originally Posted by Cebby
Mad skills there Node. You do CNC millling? I may need a few items...
You bet, my price on laser cutting is way cheaper than CNC due to the setup time involved. Ill get you an estimate on whatever you would like though. Do you have something already done up in CAD or a similar format? I would be all about helping with a UZ conversion
Last edited by node; 03-19-2005 at 12:44 PM.
#16
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Yes my 3.4 fits with a 1" bodylift.
Lance, I thought it would compliment bigger rubber quite well since I am maxed out on gearing. The crawler ought to keep revs low enough to not roast tires, but 4 smoking 37's could be cool.
Lance, I thought it would compliment bigger rubber quite well since I am maxed out on gearing. The crawler ought to keep revs low enough to not roast tires, but 4 smoking 37's could be cool.
#18
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Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
Yes my 3.4 fits with a 1" bodylift.
#19
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None. It is close to the sound deadening stuff on the hood, but it fits without cutting. Not sure of mine is the exception or what. If you have an SC, there is no way.
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Well you dont even have to have a lift or a scoop if you dont want, mine fits just fine.
All I did was removed the underhood liner and made a small notch in the underhood structure and mine just barely fits. although one time when I nailed the throttle the motor twisted up and made a small dent in the hood but it is barely noticable.
So to be safe you could run a .75" (does RB make them this small?) or 1" BL.
Thanks
All I did was removed the underhood liner and made a small notch in the underhood structure and mine just barely fits. although one time when I nailed the throttle the motor twisted up and made a small dent in the hood but it is barely noticable.
So to be safe you could run a .75" (does RB make them this small?) or 1" BL.
Thanks