Skrillah

I'm in the midst of a timing belt change, all is well but I have a question....

When I was removing the tbelt, the passenger(right) camshaft pulley moved one revolution while the crank and driver (left) didn't. I somehow managed to pull that particularly pulley while i was yanking on the belt.

So my question is how do I ge t that back in time with the other pulley and crankshaft? Can I simply crank on that particular pulley until I get it lined back up with the driver side?? I'm guessing I just rotated cylinders 1,3, 5....but idk.

Instead of both marks being at 12'oclock, the passenger is at 3 o'clock while driver/crank are at 12...

I'm freaking out thinking I totally screwed something up! Please help!?

survivorman97

iTrader: (1)

I am pretty sure that happened to me when I did mine too. You should be able to spin the camshaft pulley around without there being any real issues. You will feel it getting tight once it gets close to being back on the timing marks which means the engine is getting back to top dead center. As long as the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys are all on the correct timing marks it will work. But from the sounds of what you are describing I think it should just spin back to the right spot. Moving them around wont hurt anything because its a non-interference engine.

Skrillah

Awesome, so just crank it back clockwise to 12oclock ?

Skrillah

New question, I adjusted it, now the right passenger side is ever so slightly ahead of the left (driver) side. I discovered that after I pulled the pin on the tensioner and started manually cranking the engine. What's your guy's thoughts on that. Should I dissemble everything and adjust that cam or will it work it self out after a few revolutions? If the driver side is at 12 o'clock the passenger side is at about 12:05 or 12:10...

What a PITA! Ugh..

hross14

No--they all have to be right on the money--did you get a good belt with the timing marks on it?

I would suggest you start from the beginning and make sure the #1 piston is at TDC and your cams are lined up correctly. Put on the belt and everything else and then rotate 720*-if it is off the marks wont align after 720* of rotation.

Do you have access to a FSM? If not go to TTORA and use their database.

Few words of advice--dont try to over complicate what you are doing--it really is as easy as lining up the marks putting on the belt--

Remember:
*Cams spin a 1/2 speed of crank
*TDC is where compression and caboom happen
*When Intake & exhaust valves are closed your cams are aligned properly

fishingorwishing

I a similar problem, my crankshaft locked up on me. Felt like it was valve interference. Went back and forth on the issue of his being an interference motor or not. Had everyone on here telling me there was no way it could be valve interference. But several machine shops telling me it was valve interference. I went through big ordeal and ended up having to pull motor for rebuild. So to save a big headache and unnessary work. if you still cant' get it pull the valve cover and use the dots on the back of cam sprockets and cross reference with the marks on the cam pulleys. Wish I would've known about this.

Skrillah

hross14--thanks for the advice. I did finally get everything lined up perfectly as seen here. I got everything back together and fired'er up. So far so good and I've probably driven 50 miles since then.



You were right...I tried to make it more complicated then it was...I had a hard time getting the top idler pulley lined up but finally did and torqued to 30 ft. lbs...had a hard time with the cams but I adjusted those and got the marks dead nuts.... etc. etc. There were a lot of things that were much harder than they looked or that I anticipated but i'm thankful I've got it all back in working order. She should be good to go for awhile...much cheaper than having the dealership do it!

hross14

sweet--glad to hear it.....

ob3135

Sorry to re-hash an old post here, but I am really really struggling here. I need help BIG TIME! I have a high RPM Miss, runs great, like a top up unitl 3200 RPMS then it's like you hit a REV limiter. This is a 2002 tacomma with 4.3l V6 in it.

So I've replaced the
Igniter,
O2 sensors
Mass air flow sens
plugs
wires
check coils
checked cat converters for blockage.

Then I took off the pulleys and timing belt cover as well as cover over crank gear... So, when I put the engine at TDC the notches on the Cam Shaft line up nuts-on perfect with the notches up top and the crank pulley lines up with 0 on the timing set indicator below. So the timing is dead on, that said here is where it gets odd. The belt when set at TDC the marks on the belt that say "L-cam"and "R-Cam" and have the set lines ther eon the belt. Those marks do not line up with the paint marks and notches on the cam pulleys... So my question I'm afraid may be stupid because I know if the crank pulley and cam pulleys are lined up at TDC then the timing has to be right no matter the position of the belt. Obvious right. Well, I'm gonna ask anyway

Here we go ---- Does it matter that the lines on the actual belt dont line up with the cam pulley nothces, considering the timing is set right. Can the belt being not positioned perfectly have a affect on it? Argggggg. I'm pulling my hair out here.

1blink

The marks on the belt are only for installation reference purposes. After spinning the crank over once they no longer line up. Just go off the crank/cam marks.

ob3135

1blink, thanks so much for re-afirming that. I'm flat losing it on this one. To a point where a 15 year mechanic had to ask that dumb-ass question. It's really pushing me over the edge here. So try this on for size.

I disconnected the camshaft position sensor, and there was absolutely no change in performance. It ran perfect up to 3k RPMs and then cut out hard to a hard miss. Then let off and it ran like a top.

So you would think if you have a High Rpm miss #1 and then you un-hook the camshaft position sensor, common sense would tell you to expect a intant negative affect on running of engine. But I have no change, just still the high rpm miss. So that would lead you to think this must be causing the high rpm miss then. So it the reason there was no change is that this was bad and was the original problem.

That said, I tested it with a ohms meter and the resitiance is perfect inline with specs so it test out good.

Shouldnt there have been a distinct change when I disconect the camshaft sensor or is the tacomma 4.3 some magical engine that runs fine without it? Arggggggggg I'm gonna set on it on

1blink

Is the ecu throwing a code? Did it throw a different code with the cam sensor unplugged? This is a 3.4L engine, right?