Rays94runner

My 97 4runner has a blown head gasket after I busted a hole in the radiator off roading and it severely overheated. I wasnt aware that if theres no coolant in the system, the temp guage doesnt work. Anyways I hv the next week off and am considering pulling the heads off and trying to replace the head gasket plus send the heads to machine shop. The engine has 200K on it and ran very well prior to overheating. It still starts and runs pretty well. I also would consider pulling the engine and replacing it or having it rebuilt if that makes more sense money wise. Ive done a search and cant find much on replacing 3.4 headgaskets.(alot on 3.0 though) I have the fsm. Im looking for any insights or tips (that arnt in the fsm)from anyone who's done this before. For instance, How can I check to see if the block is warped? Can I get the service bolt for the cams from toyota?. Ive not replaced a head gasket before but I hv space in my garage, lots of tools, and no deadline. I was thinking i would just get the headgasket kit from toyota. I'll probably replace the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump too if i do the head gasket.. Ive seen some pretty good writeups on replacing the timing belt so that wil be helpful. If any has any advice or knows of any threads/ writeups for replacing 3.4 5VZ-FE headgasket, I'd be grateful if you could send it my way. Thanks Ray

mt_goat

So I guess you have the FSM info then. I won't provide the link to that since you have it, but I'm pretty sure it details how to check the block and head for warping.

This is one of the best write-ups I've seen on 3.4 HG repair:

http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=2241.0

Rays94runner

Great Link Thanks, Yeah It looks like I need a machinist precision straight edge to ck the block and feeler guages. I wonder if I can get the straight edge at an auto parts store? The cam gear bolts look like they might be a PITA. Can I use air impact gun to loosen them?

mt_goat

Yeah, I have a Starrett straight edge I ordered from a machinist supply catalog.


Don't ask me, I've never done a head gasket, well except on a 2-stoke dirt bike lol.

Rays94runner

Ok After alot of thought and talking with it over with some friends, I'm leaning towards swapping in a used 3.4. It seems it would be easier and by the time I did all the work on the old one, I think the cost wont be much more. If anyone knows a good source for used japanese engines, let me know. Thanks

mt_goat

Not a bad idea.

Try here: http://www.car-part.com/

BIGJAMESCRU

Yeah... I just did the same thing to my 4 Runner, I bought a motor out of a totaled 4 Runner that had 78K on the Odometer... Probably the best way to go... The whole project cost me about 1700 in parts... 760 for the new motor, and I replaced the timing belt, water pump, and all the pulleys all the injectors, the valve cover gaskets, rear main seal, and I also replaced the clutch on the A/C Compressor, as well as a few other odds and ends...
My Exhaust valves were stuck open, causing low compression in my number 2 cylinder, I needed a valve job, and with my Runner knocking hard on the 200K door, I decided that a motor replacement was better than doing a valve job, and running the risk of my bottom end detonating. 5VZFE's have a lifespan of about 300K plus or minus before needing some form of major work (from what I have seen, and what I have been told). And I figure being 2/3 of the way through its life... I'd Might as well)...

herbsicecream

Is that 200,000 miles or kilometres?

SNapper

I just did these head gaskets on a friend's 4 runner. It over heated from no coolant and blew the gaskets. The job cost about 700 in parts. It was time consuming but not that difficult to do.

To take the cam gear off you put a wrench on the cam shaft in the spot that's made to be held by a wrench. You use that wrench to hold the shaft while you loosen the bolt on the pulley.

I don't think I'll ever do head gaskets on that engine again though. It wasn't fun haha.

taroy1

I did the head gasket on my 5VZ-FE (actually ended up replacing a cracked cylinder head) and the job was definitely involved but not hard. I captured it here if anyone is interested in my experience.

Kevin_A

Excellent Videos !!! Thanks for taking the time to document this, I am currently in the process of replacing HG's on my 4Runner, and this info has really helped. I have the FSM, but it is still great to see it on video that a person with regular hand tools can complete a repair like this.

Jwharvey123

I'm doing a hg in my 5FZ-FE and I had a question. I have the head gasket and it seems there is a black piece on the front and back of the gasket. Anyone else have this? Am I supposed to take it off or leave it on? Thanks in advance for all replies! I can post pics if needed.

rworegon

Pic would be helpful. Thanks.

Kevin_A

Instead of starting a new thread, I thought I would try to post here and try for an answer.

When I started tearing the 3.4 apart to replace both head gaskets, I failed to set the crankshaft at TDC. Will everything be timed right as long as I put the crankshaft and both cam pulleys at "TDC"?

I mean, having the crankshaft 1 revolution off won't matter as long as in the end all three pulleys are pointing at the notch, will it?

Everything is going well on the head gasket replacement, but I just wanted to double check with everyone on this !!!

Jwharvey123

Does anyone know of any other bolts that hold the heads down other than the 16 head bolts for both heads?
I have the exhaust manifolds off and 16 head bolts off and the passenger side head moves up and down but won't come off. The driver's side moves a little but still won't come off.
Here's a vid of what I'm talking about:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4yS...ature=youtu.be

Jwharvey123

Nevermind It was the hex bolts!

Jwharvey123

How to remove crankshaft pulley? The bolt is removed. I have the tool that looks like a claw that you thread into the holes but my pulled does not have threaded holes. Atleast I don't think it does. Bolts dont stay in. Tried many sizes. someone please help thanks!

Kevin_A

The crankshaft pulley does have threaded holes. I can't remember the size, but I used the bolts that hold the A/C compressor in place because that's all I had on hand.