3.0 running rough

vmaxjohn · 06-23-2003, 09:22 AM

Off and on, our 4runner would run rough, after some dry gas it would clear up.

While at the Silver Lake sand dunes and running the motor hard, it ran fine. The next morning it started fine, but ran rough all day, just randomly missing. We spent a couple more hours at the dunes, and it was obviously down on power, but we made the 2 hour trip home ok.

So, I'm off for some tune up parts, but I'm wondering if anyone has had something similar happen?

I did have an anitfreeze loss happen a while back, but it's held after some Alumiseal in the system. Could it be that my leak has come back and caused this poor running? I'll get out there and check it right freakin now!

Thanks for any advice!

AgRunner06 · 06-23-2003, 09:32 AM

Have you checked the oil to see if it looks like chocolate milk? Also some people have said that you will have white stuff under your oil cap on your valve cover. Any overheating? Oh yeah, check your coolant level too.

Let's hope that the tune-up parts will fix the problem. If not, then it may be time for a new head gasket.

Good Luck

vmaxjohn · 06-23-2003, 02:02 PM

The fluids check fine. The coolant has gotten a little dark, but I haven't changed it since I put in the stop leak. It's not the nice green color it started out as.

I think I'll be doing a coolant flush soon and put the Yota stuff back in. I was told by the service manager at Tri-City Toyota that Yota's stuff has a built in stop leak...interesting!

HOpefully tomorrow I can get all the parts in and see what helps.

<96 Runner> · 06-23-2003, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by vmaxjohn
I was told by the service manager at Tri-City Toyota that Yota's stuff has a built in stop leak...

Los Gatos? · 06-23-2003, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by <96 Runner>

hahahahaha !!!!!!!!!

Bean · 06-23-2003, 05:27 PM

If your tune-up efforts don't solve the problem, I'd suggest a compression check. #6 is prone to burning up valves if/when coolant or oil passages get clogged, which deprives the area of that little extra cooling efficiency in the area. And that's all it takes for the temp to get a little to high and burn the valve.

If it is a burnt valve you might as well take the time to pull (or spend the $ for a shop to pull) both heads and reshim all the valves. It's pay off in the long run.

vmaxjohn · 06-23-2003, 09:04 PM

Thanks Bean. I do not believe this is mechanical, since it's more random, not every stroke. I've had lots of burned valves in the past with Chevies, they would miss on every revolution. This is not the case...

We'll see how it goes tomorrow afternoon. I'm really starting to think I need to sell this one and get into a newer 4runner with a 3.4! There's just getting to be too many little things it needs.

vmaxjohn · 06-25-2003, 07:57 AM

Well, replacing the cap/rotor/and plug wires didn't change anything. I went with NGK plats but they have yet to arrive yet, dammit!

I did find that the plugs in there are CHAMPIONS (GAG!) and are seriously worn and nasty looking. What I hope to find is a crappy champion that got a little too hot and melted the ground or something.

I guess we'll be getting our Grand Cherokee back on the road, after it failed to sell for 6 months. Maybe it's a good thing we've still got it, since the 3.0 might be going to .

Please, if you think about it, sacrifice a chicken for me, use your favorite barbeque sauce of course!

06-23-2003, 09:22 AM	#1 (permalink)
vmaxjohn Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Midland, MI Posts: 88	3.0 running rough Off and on, our 4runner would run rough, after some dry gas it would clear up. While at the Silver Lake sand dunes and running the motor hard, it ran fine. The next morning it started fine, but ran rough all day, just randomly missing. We spent a couple more hours at the dunes, and it was obviously down on power, but we made the 2 hour trip home ok. So, I'm off for some tune up parts, but I'm wondering if anyone has had something similar happen? I did have an anitfreeze loss happen a while back, but it's held after some Alumiseal in the system. Could it be that my leak has come back and caused this poor running? I'll get out there and check it right freakin now! Thanks for any advice! __________________ If guns kill people, then my guitar can teach without me!

06-23-2003, 09:32 AM	#2 (permalink)
AgRunner06 Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: The Lone Star State Posts: 2,418	Have you checked the oil to see if it looks like chocolate milk? Also some people have said that you will have white stuff under your oil cap on your valve cover. Any overheating? Oh yeah, check your coolant level too. Let's hope that the tune-up parts will fix the problem. If not, then it may be time for a new head gasket. Good Luck __________________ "I'm your huckleberry." - Doc Holiday - '93 4runner - Sold! Current Ride - 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 ext.cab, pewter, 5.3L, 3.42s, fully loaded, 68K miles. FREE ROCKET!!!!

06-23-2003, 02:02 PM	#3 (permalink)
vmaxjohn Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Midland, MI Posts: 88	The fluids check fine. The coolant has gotten a little dark, but I haven't changed it since I put in the stop leak. It's not the nice green color it started out as. I think I'll be doing a coolant flush soon and put the Yota stuff back in. I was told by the service manager at Tri-City Toyota that Yota's stuff has a built in stop leak...interesting! HOpefully tomorrow I can get all the parts in and see what helps. __________________ If guns kill people, then my guitar can teach without me!

06-23-2003, 05:27 PM	#6 (permalink)
Bean Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: MD Posts: 93	If your tune-up efforts don't solve the problem, I'd suggest a compression check. #6 is prone to burning up valves if/when coolant or oil passages get clogged, which deprives the area of that little extra cooling efficiency in the area. And that's all it takes for the temp to get a little to high and burn the valve. If it is a burnt valve you might as well take the time to pull (or spend the $ for a shop to pull) both heads and reshim all the valves. It's pay off in the long run. __________________ '95 xcab, 3L, 33's - Gone '99 4Runner, stock (ish)

06-23-2003, 09:04 PM	#7 (permalink)
vmaxjohn Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Midland, MI Posts: 88	Thanks Bean. I do not believe this is mechanical, since it's more random, not every stroke. I've had lots of burned valves in the past with Chevies, they would miss on every revolution. This is not the case... We'll see how it goes tomorrow afternoon. I'm really starting to think I need to sell this one and get into a newer 4runner with a 3.4! There's just getting to be too many little things it needs. __________________ If guns kill people, then my guitar can teach without me!

06-25-2003, 07:57 AM	#8 (permalink)
vmaxjohn Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Midland, MI Posts: 88	Well, replacing the cap/rotor/and plug wires didn't change anything. I went with NGK plats but they have yet to arrive yet, dammit! I did find that the plugs in there are CHAMPIONS (GAG!) and are seriously worn and nasty looking. What I hope to find is a crappy champion that got a little too hot and melted the ground or something. I guess we'll be getting our Grand Cherokee back on the road, after it failed to sell for 6 months. Maybe it's a good thing we've still got it, since the 3.0 might be going to . Please, if you think about it, sacrifice a chicken for me, use your favorite barbeque sauce of course! __________________ If guns kill people, then my guitar can teach without me!

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