My99

This is on the 90. Just curious as to how difficult it is to remove the number 2 idler pulley. It looks quite easy... if the timing belt were off. The number 2 idler pulley is the one up high where the water pipe is sealed onto. It has started squealing, and obviously bearings are going out. I'm real excited about having to reseal the coolant, but even more excited about having to deal with the timing belt. Just curious as to if anyone had any luck removing this pulley without having to reset the timing belt? If so, what do you do. And if not, what should I expect? Thanks.

gwhayduke

I replaced mine when I replaced the belt. It may be possible to replace it without going into the belt, but I can't remember that much about it.

I do know that you have to get fairly deep into the engine to get it off. So as long as you're that close why not replace the belt, check out the front seal, #1 idler pulley and water pump.

What's a few more bolts when you're in pretty deep already?

My99

...Well, i didn't think it was that deep. Just take off the accessory belts, fan, timing belt cover, and you're there.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

You will have to do more than that. In order to take it off, you have to remove the 4 bolts that hold it down behind an access plate on the top of the cover. It is an integral part of the timing system, so you might have to reset the timing as the cams might jump when released. Just match the crank to TDC and the cams to their factory match marks, then loosen the timing idler. The cams should stay in the same place, and you should be ok. If not, just put the crank on TDC on the compression stroke, and match mark the cams to the factory position. I had to do this to my 90 4Runner, and it was a bit of a pain getting past the coolant piping and the air lines, but you can do it without removing the intake.

My99

Thanks for the tip! I'll probably get after it this evening.

My99

Well, I did it this evening after I got off work. Not to bad of a deal really. You have to take off the fan/shroud, all the accessory belts, then the upper radiator hose piece that is connected to the pulley itself...(easiest to take this off first). You'll loose about a 1/2 quart or so of coolant. Maybe less if you let it cool down more than I did. I let it sit for about an hr with the hood up before messing with it. Anyway, once you've done this you have to take out 4 scres that are on the front side of the engine around the idler pulley. Then you can maneuver the plate straight up and it reveals a couple of the bolts that hold the idler pulley on there. I found that the aluminum lines that run out from under the intake are somewhat flexible, and was able to reach all 4 bolts without too much trouble with an extension. I got it off and WOW. The bearings were falling out of the thing, the retaining plates were off too. This thing was about to explode I bet. haha.

The tricky part (it wasn't too bad really) was keeping the timing set. (Do this before you start losening the old pulley) I got me a whiteout marker and marked 2 spots on each pulley and the belt position. I then took 2 sets of vice grips and clamed them down on the belt/pulley so that the belt wouldn't jump any teeth. The trickiest part is getting your RTV sealant on the new idler pulley and wiggling it into place without ruining your nice bead around the grove. I hope I got mine on there without messing it up or I'll be pulling it off again due to a leak! Anyway, once I got the new idler on there (well it's not new, took it off the old motor) I just did the reversal of the take-off, and the rest is history. It's sitting curing right now. Says it fully cures in 24 hrs. I've driven after about 6 hrs with this stuff and never had any problems though. I'll wait 12 thogh at least, I'd hate to have to tear into it again. Took me about 3 hrs.

Just something for the archives, I know no one here was interested today. Maybe sometime in the future it will help someone though.

gwhayduke

Glad to know it can be done and thanks for plowing the ground for the rest of us.

Dave Fogg

Do you have to remove the plates behind the cam sprockets to get to the bolts for that idler pulley