SolidDigital

hey everyone, I've already done a search and from what I found apparently there's an a/c idle up valve that you can adjust to set the rpm's to go up around 100 or so when the ac comes on. Mine goes up 250/ almost 300 rpm's when the ac comes on, and I don't think this is normal.

if anyone knows the exact location of it or has a pic of it and could post it I'd appreciate it because I can't seem to find it lol... I read on one thread that it's on the passenger fender somewhere but not from what I can see...



on a better note, I changed my fuel filter today.. that was a pain but worth it.. I can't wait till tomorrow so I can start it up and see if it still does the spuddering it'd do when cold, figured the fuel filter might be the problem since a while back putting in a fuel cleaner helped it some but would never take care of it completely.
once I had the old one off it was dripping brown rusty fuel out of it so it was about time...

I need to get a digital camera so I can post pics of my truck on here and such... I have some older pics scanned somewhere but have a feeling it'll be hard to fix a good avatar when all I can do is scan them.

but I got off the subject, if anyone does have a digital camera and knows where this a/c idle up valve is I'd appreciate it if they could snap a pic...

till later,

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Well Asudan96Runner use to have a 25 MB ZIP file of the 2nd gen factory manual online, but looks like he took it down.
Lemme see if I can find one for the air con, as I have all the files...

Can't locate it, but I'm sure it's there.
I'd upload the files and host them, but my site would end up shutting down from all the bandwidth.

AgRunner06

While I don't know where the ac idle idle up valve is, I do have an idea about your cold start sputtering. My guess is that it is the cold start injector. We've had quite a bit of talk about it lately. I'd be willing to bet that your truck still sputters when you start it tomorrow morning. The CSI is held into your intake manifold with two 10 mm nuts. You can remove these nuts and pull out the CSI. Then clean it off. This will give you a much better spray pattern and possibly get rid of the sputtering.

If the CSI is leaking too much, it may just need to be replaced.

BTW, welcome.

SolidDigital

I appreciate you checking, Corey.. and AgRunner06,.. I was hoping that a good fuel cleaner would work since the fuel filter change, but if not, I'll probably take the cold start injector off and clean it then... would a carb cleaning spray work on it alright?

SolidDigital

thanks man, its good to be here.. great site and members

Fink

I'm almost positive your starting problem is your CSI...mine had a wire cut so it wasn't even gettin power, this caused a PITA starting operation. Take the CSI out and clean it and I'm pretty sure that it will work much better...if not then it may be leaking and needing to be replaced. Just check her out and see whats goin on and hopefully that will fix your problem.

Good luck,

Fink

amusement

Can't find any mention of an A/C idle issue in TSB's using Mitchells. Haynes doesn't describe any A/C idle relationships. Just the idle speed check list on page 1-19 which covers adjuging the idle screw on the throttle body.

Sry

Edit: Reviewed the wiring diagram between A/C and AFM (air flow meter).

It could be a failed open circuit relay for the A/C that is telling the MAF something that isn't true. In turn the MAF is telling the ECM to boost idle. Try to replace your A/C relay under the hood and see if that helps out.

Note it's just a suggestion.

SolidDigital

thanks for the info... I wonder if there's even an adjustment for the a/c idle up on the 3.0 then, seems more people would know of it if there was

amusement

There's a connection between the A/C relay on the AFM sensor. It gets forwarded to the ECM after the AFM sensor adjusts when A/C gets turned on.

There's not adjustment for it that is reported in either Haynes or Mitchells. This is something that needs to come from the Toyota Service Manual.

So here's the deal of what it could be

cold start injector time switch ( as stated by 4x4 fink)
AC relay to AFM to sensor input ECM malfunction
throttle poisition sensor failure in either sensor or it's position.

The above list will cause high idle. I would start with a CSI time switch to identify if it's working or not. The AC relay is a quick replacement under 18 USD. TPS troubleshooting would be the last item I would trouble shoot on the list.

good luck

SolidDigital

Good info, amusement.. thanks for your input.

4x4Fink, you were right, the new fuel filter didn't help the cold start problem much... it does start right up though, but if I try to rev it that's when it doesn't get enough gas.. so I'ma try taking the cold start injector out and clean it.
Any special way you'd do this? or just take the two bolts off and pull it back far enough to spray a cleaner on it? from what I can see, once the bolt on each side is off, it still has the fuel line holding it in place pretty well..

SolidDigital

that's the only one I don't know the location of, the AC relay.. ECM? I know where the AFM is though..

anyway, I pulled the cold start injector out and boy was that thing dirty.. cleaned it all off and the cold starts are instantaneous, but if I rev it it'll still sputter some..
put a fuel cleaner in it today so hopefully that'll get the other injectors pretty clean.

as for my A/C problem... guess I should probably just take it to a mechanic

eric-the-red

According to my wiring diagram the A/C idle-up valve is at the right rear of engine compartment, with 2 wires, black/red and blue. I don't have A/C so I can't check if this is correct.

SolidDigital

I just found two valves with a red and black plastic cap really close to the firewall but I tried them tight and loose, didn't make a difference.

Faded

Any possiblities that this could be hosted again? I'd like to get me hands on a copy!

Thanks in advance,
Andrew