Uisge Beathe

This is my effort to go "green". Doesn't require any gas or electricity. Not much in terms of horsepower...about as strong as a small pony, that's rather strong that is!!!






OK..quite some time ago I picked up a 3RZ on Craigslist that was a complete basket case. This guy had completely torn it apart and then found out he was in over his head, so I got it on the cheap. He said it was from a 2003 and seeing as how I have a 98 I started asking on here if a 2003 3RZ can be put into a 1998 without too much hassle and the answer is...yes,for the most part.

The only differences that I really encountered were the cylinder head and intake mani changed to 4 port oval, instead of the 8 round, which wasn't an issue since I had a complete "new" engine including a cylinder head and the intake mani. I did have to use my old throttle body because there were some vacuum nipples that just don't exist on the newer one such as one of the power steering vacuums and PCV. Everything plugged into the wiring harness with no modifications and was pretty straight forward.

Pulled the old, tired 3RZ with 296,700 miles and put in a newly rebuilt 3RZ. Took a 3RZ that I bought on Craigslist to a machine shop for the block and head work and did the rest myself.

NEW:
-Master Rebuild Kit from LCE
-Crank
-Rods
-Pistons
-ARP Main Studs
-ARP Head Studs
-Timing set
-Water pump
-Oil pump
-Power Steering Pump
-All sensors (oil, water, knock, crank position, cam position, etc.)
-Starter (Mean Green starter by the way is BAD ASS...Huge Solenoid)
-Alternator (80 amp from Napa)
-Radiator
-Clutch (1,200 lb Marlin Clutch...awesome)
-Flywheel (Marlin Crawler)
-Bellhousing
-Various other things like hoses, plugs, wires.

Assembly of the "new" engine:


















The "Old" Engine:



Broken Pressure Plate


This where the pressure plate finger shot through the bellhousing


Actually not bad in terms of sludge considering the mileage


Oil pan full of copper...my bearings were shot.

New Engine Installed:





Start Up:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cFzrtSVQ8s

Nuthuts96

iTrader: (1)

over my head too, but i still hope to take part in such a project one day... good call on the orange block paint! Dad rebuilt a Ford 400 from an LTD for a Baby Blue '75 Blazer and went orange. Always loved it since.

Uisge Beathe

I also deleted my balance shafts and have nothing negative to report...at least not yet. I can't give an accurate account as to whether or not it added any useable horse power, since my old engine was in such a worn down condition just a stock rebuild was a huge difference by itself. I can however tell you that the new engine revs up a lot quicker and I attribute that to the balance shaft delete, since most people describe it akin to a lighter flywheel...essentially reducing the rotating mass and in this instance also the drag on the engine.

I have NO noticeable in cab shakes or shimmys but I do notice my radar detector vibrates against the windshield a bit more and a vibration at low rpm's on interior plastic panels, but it smooths out under load and my truck is a 98 so the panels are probably a little loose anyway. This is far from being at all annoying, to me anyway, compared to how it was. At idle in neutral my stick shift used to shake back and forth about an inch in each direction so the small "buzz" vibration is nothing.

Uisge Beathe

Thank you! It's POR-15's Hemi Orange engine enamel and I did a base coat of POR-15. I dunno why...just because.

87hillbillyoter

nice! i hope to do the same swap someday.

Uisge Beathe

Also, I guess worth adding to the list:

-LCE Polyurethane engine mounts
-Bosch O2 sensors
-Magnaflow High Flow Catalytic Converter
-Thorley Header

MudHippy

One thing stuck out like a sore thumb as I browsed the pics.

"3FE" on the face of the pistons. Now, last I checked the 3F-E was an inline 6. Is that just a coincidence? Or is that another oddball mod I've never heard of(like removing the balance shafts)?


Nice job too, BTW. I recommend the "run it hard" break-in procedure, works for me. Hopefully that's the way it was done, or that it's not too late to do so. Very small window of opportunity there, hope it wasn't missed.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Good luck!

MudHippy

Fine then, nevermind. I'll answer my own question.
Yes, it's just a coincidence. Why's that you say. Because the 3F-E has a bore diameter of 3.70"(94mm) vs. 3.74"(95mm) for the 3RZ-FE. So unless they were .040"(1mm) O/S they wouldn't work in a 3RZ-FE(even if you wanted them to). And since you didn't mention the new pistons were O/S, and did mention it was a "stock" rebuild, I'll go ahead and assume they aren't. Not to mention whatever other differences between them would prevent you from doing so. Which if they do, or don't, exist I'm unaware of. As I know very little about either of those engines.

BTW, if you're thinking that was a silly question to ask altogether, I've got news for ya. It's wasn't. Swapping pistons from one engine to another isn't unheard of. It's mainly done to change the compression ratio and/or power output. But could also be done to add or subtract rotating mass if they differed in weight. Or for both of those reasons, or just because it sounded like a cool thing to do, or for any other reason(s), or for no particular reason at all.

So yeah, I'm not an idiot...

Texas_Ace

Not bad, the thing i really like about the 4 bangers is it is SOOO easy to turbo them. The V6's may make more power stock but it is much harder to turbo them for big power.

MudHippy

Yeah maybe....

Then again, maybe NOT! Can you say supercharged 1MZ-FE with 306 HP, 500+ HP on the bottle? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4bYjZtVdzk

Texas_Ace

Nice video but not sure what that has to do with my post?

I stand behind what i said, the 4 bangers are FAR easier to turbo, you can buy all the parts off the shelf and then bolt them on. And with a simple bolt on turbo build making 300rwhp+ is not hard at all.

Turboing a V6 is a 100% custom job.

So yes, i fully stand behind my post.

Now a turbo V6 is lots of fun once you get it done but it will cost a lot more, take a TON more work and just plain be a lot harder to do.

Uisge Beathe

MudHippy...good eye! I did in fact go 1mm oversize. Machine shop said I could probably get by with just honing but for safe measure I went smallest oversize piston I could, that's why I really didn't mention it. I didn't do it specifically with the intent of any performance gains or to raise the compression.

I have however done that on a previous build of a Ford 390FT block and put a 428 cobra jet crank in it as well.

This basket case engine had a spun rod bearing and appeared to have a hot spot on a cylinder wall. So even though it mic'd out within spec I went oversize.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

sweet build and great attention to detail. I'm looking to go 3rz on the next swap I do if i find a dead 22re truck.

MudHippy

Oh...o.k., I guess I'll believe you then.
https://www.yotatech.com/51439941-post63.html

I mean, what would he know about it. He's only done it 3 times...and you've done it how many?

Texas_Ace

Still harder then a 4 banger since it takes custom work, the word custom automatically means it is harder to 99% of people on here because most of us don't have a welder.

Plus i would NEVER do it the way he is saying, it is VERY inefficient you need the manifolds at the very leats all running the same direction, a 120 degree turn backwards is going to make 1 bank run much different then the other, which is bad for power and for the engine. not good for anything.

I do things right, if you want to go ghetto rigged i am sure it can be done. And i still stand behind my post, turboing a 4 banger RIGHT is far easier.

Plus whats up with all of this anyways? i never said anything bad about the 5vz, i have a supercharged 5vz afterall i just said that i like the 4 bangers since they are so easy to turbo.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

This thread is about to be shut down unless it goes back on track. Start another thread if you want to compare putting a turbo on a 4cyl and v6.

Texas_Ace

I agree, can't figure out what started it in the first place.

MudHippy

Just showing you the other side of the coin is all. Some of us prefer more cylinders than 4. I failed to mention my point with the other post. Which was this, the MR2 was originally a 4 banger. So he must of thought he'd be better off with a V6 too. Not too mention all the folks that prefer V8s over either.

That's all. We're done here.

Forget I mentioned it. The minute I say anything in opposition to all the 4cyl lovers, threads get closed.

Texas_Ace

PM inbound.

Edit: you don't have PM's so guess i have to post it here, sorry vital, if you want to split this thread off that is fine with me, hate to clutter up someones thread like this.

Last post on this subject, i promise.

I actually do like the V6 a lot for trucks which is why i have a V6 and not a 4 banger. honestly between them, I don't really care which one you have, both have their strong points and weaknesses. The 4 bangers strong point is it is easy to turbo the V6 strong point is it has a ton of torque. I was simply showing support for this guys build since he chose a 4 banger and most on here don't care for them.

Oh, and FYI, i am also VERY big into MR2's, don't even get me started on those. I know the up's and downs to those very well.

V6 = Autocross car
3sgte (aka, 4 banger) = Everything else.

Case in point: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPqxWmtxsJw

I have a 3sgte build sitting in my garage that is capable of well over 500rwhp on boost alone. V6's are just novelty items that people do for fun or for autocross cars. They are also cheaper then a properly built 3sgte. ALL the real fast/MR2's on the record boards are 4 bangers. The highest HP V6 i have seen in an MR2 was still 500hp short of the record 4 banger numbers (~1100rwhp last i checked for full on drag car and ~850rwhp for a street car).