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95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

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Old 07-15-2004, 01:53 PM   #1
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22RE Valve Adjustment

A few weeks ago I replaced my engine and this week I did my timing chain. I Put at 22R converted RE in my runner and after getting my chain done there is a slight tap. I got my ignition timing done today and the tap is still there. Its pretty constant though. I figure I just need to do a valve adjustment.

How does one do this? How hard is it on a 22RE?

Are the valves the same height on the 22R and RE?

If I were to use some sort of engine cleaner like seafoam or RESTORE should I try that before doing the adjustment, after, or doesnt matter?

Any input would be great,
Thanks
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Old 07-15-2004, 03:19 PM   #2
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You might try the stethoscope method to determine the source of the tap first. Get an empty paper towel tube and hold it to your ear and check around, you should be able to locate the source. If it's an injector, then yes seafoam (or equiv.) might help. Valve adjustment is typically a snap if you have the right tools (long feeler gauges.) I suggest you get a manual and follow it. I don't remember if the 22re was simply adjusted or used shims. (Mine never needed adjustment, although I did watch them check the adjustment once.) If it uses shims it's a bit tougher. It shouldn't cost much to have it done though if it comes to that. Other possibilities include exhaust leak, and rod knock. Hopefully it's not that!!
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Old 07-15-2004, 04:25 PM   #3
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No shims on 22R or RE. After 85 they are same head, same valves. They are adjusted with a long feeler gauge (the angled one works better I think) and a screwdriver. They are done with the engine hot
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Old 07-16-2004, 09:46 PM   #4
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Allrgiht well I found a write up and am goign to try it myself, doesnt look so bad.

Should this be done immediaetly? Will It cause harm if it is not?

Is the compression stroke of TDC when the dots on the cam gear are pointing up?

Should I look out for anything while doing this process?

Thanks,
Alex
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Old 07-18-2004, 06:30 PM   #5
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Allright well I did the adjustment last night and barely adjusted the intake ones, esp the one i thought I would have to adjust. I thought it was the 2 or 3 intake but the 2 barely needed adjusting at all.

All the exhaust valves were too tight. Why may this be? I did adjust them though to .012 or whatever its supossed to be.

The tap is way quietier but still slightly there, but I am content with it for now.

Big question is why were all the exhaust ones too tight? I did it to TDC on compression and exhaust strokes.

Thanks
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Old 07-19-2004, 06:49 AM   #6
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I always adjust valves @ tdc of each cylinder on the compression stroke(just watch the rocker arms open then close the valves while turning the engine clockwise)Exhaust valves always tighten more than intakes(intakes are cooled bu incoming fuel charge/ex, are superheated by spent combuston gasses).Also dont over tighten the valve cover,it will cause a tapping noise.
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:56 AM   #7
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where did you find a write up on how to adjust valves?
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:02 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsrusse11
where did you find a write up on how to adjust valves?
Click and go to page 21 for procedure
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Originally Posted by habanero View Post
I'd experience an O so big it'd show up on the richter scale.

92x-cab dlx 4x4 22RE, Pacesetter header, everything else is so stock it's not funny, cause I don't have the money!
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:16 AM   #9
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I had the same issue. It seems that the exhaust valves like to tighten up. It is a very easy design to adjust but also easy to get out of adjustment.
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Old 04-25-2005, 10:01 AM   #10
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adjusting them isn't hard at all, i've done it so many times now that i don't even need to look at the manual
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:19 PM   #11
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check out the link it has pictures and is sooo easy to follow.
http://www.haveblueonline.com/1983/ENGINE/valves.htm
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Old 04-26-2005, 12:20 AM   #12
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HAHAHAHAHA!!!! I HATE adjusting valves. I'm so glad there are others here who share the experience and pain of bending over the hot engine, standing on a step ladder because you lifted your truck, and burning the hell out of your lower arms and fingers, through your gloves. If you don't work fast enough, the engine cools too much, and your adjustment is off, meaning you have to do it again! Then i step back and admire the 3.4L guys who have nice self-adjusting valves.
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Old 04-26-2005, 12:23 AM   #13
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nice self adjsuting valves on the 3.4l? i thought there valves required shims and were a total pita?!
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Old 04-26-2005, 12:44 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimabena74
nice self adjsuting valves on the 3.4l? i thought there valves required shims and were a total pita?!
Well, that's what the guy at the dealerships been tellig us in the 97 and 04. They both have the 3.4, and they told us they didn't need valve adjustment, that the valves were self adjusting. We've not had problems, but if they do need shims and stuff, i know a certain relative of mine who is going to murder someone at the good ol stealership!
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Old 04-26-2005, 12:54 AM   #15
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hey axleike, is your avatar white and grey and kinda out of focus? i jsut wiped my hd and think im having issues with the graphix card, but it might jsut be your avatar also.....
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Old 04-26-2005, 05:44 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimabena74
hey axleike, is your avatar white and grey and kinda out of focus? i jsut wiped my hd and think im having issues with the graphix card, but it might jsut be your avatar also.....
Just his avatar Jim.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by habanero View Post
I'd experience an O so big it'd show up on the richter scale.

92x-cab dlx 4x4 22RE, Pacesetter header, everything else is so stock it's not funny, cause I don't have the money!
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Old 04-26-2005, 08:32 AM   #17
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Ya, the avatar is a pic of my truck that i used some cheezy effect from photo editor on. I think it was called notepaper or something.
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Old 04-26-2005, 07:33 PM   #18
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i'd like to say the 3.4 uses hydraulic lifters -- what most pushrod engines have, though few OHC engines use lifters(one i can think of is the ford 2300). hydraulic lifters are nice since they're self adjusting, but they're also another component that can fail.

i like my no-frills 22r valvetrain, except for the fact that you're always adjusting it.
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Old 04-27-2005, 02:45 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AxleIke
HAHAHAHAHA!!!! I HATE adjusting valves. I'm so glad there are others here who share the experience and pain of bending over the hot engine, standing on a step ladder because you lifted your truck, and burning the hell out of your lower arms and fingers, through your gloves. If you don't work fast enough, the engine cools too much, and your adjustment is off, meaning you have to do it again! Then i step back and admire the 3.4L guys who have nice self-adjusting valves.

Adjust the valves cold at .07 intake and .011 exhaust. That is how it was done at the factory and I thought I'd give it a try. I rechecked the valves hot at .08 and .12 and they all came out perfect. I'll never go back to burning myself again
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Old 04-27-2005, 02:45 AM
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