22re help (just did the timing chain)

Boosted Chemist · 10-07-2005, 11:39 AM

What a pita! That timing chain was harder than i thought but i finished.
now i start up my trunk, idles ok, go for a drive. Once i shift i feel a lag/miss likes it misfiring. I checked my vacuumlines and they are all good. When i reinstalled the dissy i placed the crank at 5 degrees and mad sure the rotor lined up on #1. I also mad marks for where the dissy was before and rotated it toward the line.

Any ideas? im baffled right now

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LittleRedToyota · 10-07-2005, 11:54 AM

did you set the timing with a timing light (and the diagnostic terminals TE1 and E1 jumpered) after putting it all back together?

jimbo74 · 10-07-2005, 11:54 AM

timing issue... it needs to be set correctly.. the connector must be properly shorted or it will make the values wrong.. here is a small part stolen from www.4crawler.com about it:

Start up the vehicle.
The timing is probably off since the distributor was moved.
To get the vehicle to idle smoothly adjust the distributor freehand or set the timing the right way.
- With the timing test connector (TE+ E+) shortedn set the timing to 5° BTDC/22RE or 0°BTDC/22R

Boosted Chemist · 10-07-2005, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimabena74

timing issue... it needs to be set correctly.. the connector must be properly shorted or it will make the values wrong.. here is a small part stolen from www.4crawler.com about it:

Start up the vehicle.
The timing is probably off since the distributor was moved.
To get the vehicle to idle smoothly adjust the distributor freehand or set the timing the right way.
- With the timing test connector (TE+ E+) shortedn set the timing to 5° BTDC/22RE or 0°BTDC/22R

i didnt use a timing light (i dont have one :pat: )

but i put everything back the way it was originally

4Hummer · 10-07-2005, 12:11 PM

Yup Id say timming is off. GO rent a timming light.

LittleRedToyota · 10-07-2005, 12:13 PM

that doesn't guarantee the timing is right...that'll get it close enough to run, but not necessarily to run well. i don't think you can really get around needing to set the timing with a light. some people claim to be able to do it by ear, but...

you might be able to rent one from autozone.

not sure where you are, but, if you are around pittsburgh, you can use mine.

if you are elsewhere, maybe there is someone around you who will lend you one?

or consider buying one...they really aren't that expensive and come in handy.

PirateFins · 10-07-2005, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Chemist

When i reinstalled the dissy i placed the crank at 5 degrees and mad sure the rotor lined up on #1. I also mad marks for where the dissy was before and rotated it toward the line.

Any ideas? im baffled right now

Ok I'm a little confused with this... You mean you put the crank at TDC? I don't think starting at 5* is correct. I always have put the crank at TDC =0* on the timming mark, bright link on the chain at 11:59 (supposed to be 12 oclock but never is), and insert the dist. so it rotates to #1 and the marks that I made.

When you start the truck and put the jumper in it should read 5* on the button.

I think you have it set to advanced from the begining.

Go back and pop the dist. cover and rotate the crank till it gets to 0* and see where the rotor is pointing.

jimbo74 · 10-07-2005, 01:12 PM

go buy a timing light... they are > $15 at harbor freight!!!!! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3343

Boosted Chemist · 10-07-2005, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PirateFins

Ok I'm a little confused with this... You mean you put the crank at TDC? I don't think starting at 5* is correct. I always have put the crank at TDC =0* on the timming mark, bright link on the chain at 11:59 (supposed to be 12 oclock but never is), and insert the dist. so it rotates to #1 and the marks that I made.

When you start the truck and put the jumper in it should read 5* on the button.

I think you have it set to advanced from the begining.

Go back and pop the dist. cover and rotate the crank till it gets to 0* and see where the rotor is pointing.

i must of read something wrong, i set the crank to 0 degrees and did it over again and perfect. I still have a tick noise comming from my engine though, but no more hesitation

. thanks guys

jimbo74 · 10-07-2005, 01:43 PM

get teh valves adjusted.... or do it yourself..... i have done everything to my own truck... its actually i nthe garage right now in pieces, i am doing my timing chain right now... i think its pretty easy, but its a hell of a lot of bolts....

i wont touch my valves though, i know how to do it, but i swear, its a 50/50 chance, i never get it right.... im going to pay someone to adjsut them after i finish... i get it close, think its off, readjsut it, then its worse.....

Boosted Chemist · 10-07-2005, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimabena74

get teh valves adjusted.... or do it yourself..... i have done everything to my own truck... its actually i nthe garage right now in pieces, i am doing my timing chain right now... i think its pretty easy, but its a hell of a lot of bolts....

i wont touch my valves though, i know how to do it, but i swear, its a 50/50 chance, i never get it right.... im going to pay someone to adjsut them after i finish... i get it close, think its off, readjsut it, then its worse.....

yeah i do all my own ÅÅÅÅ too. Hell you should see my crx

i need to adjust the valves but tonight, im enjoying some heineken

Zetoe · 10-07-2005, 04:19 PM

Use a timing light.

This is the procedure I used on my 1990 22re with 128k.

First set #1 to TDC by turning the main pulley to 0* and make sure the distributor is pointed at the #1 cylinder.

Then fire it up and with a timing light, rotate the dizzy until it is 12* BTDC.

(The service manual will say jump a connector and adjust timing to 5* BTDC but 12* is what 5* it is unjumped. )

Adjust the idle after the engine reaches operating temp and you're done! Drive around and enjoy the smoothe power.

HTH

spork_the_mortals · 01-04-2008, 03:21 AM

Why would adjusting your own valves seem daunting? It's not too hard to do and the only real critical part is the exhaust valves, since they run hotter and can benefit from a teeny bit more slack (.013) to allow them to cool more when they sit on the seats.

With the engine off and at operating temp, I set the timing mark to fire on 1 and adjust both valves for #1, the intake for #2 and the exhaust for #3; Then I turn the crank 360 around to fire on #4 and adjust both valves for #4, the intake for #3 and the exhaust for #2. Easy.

BTW: Intakes are at .008 and the exhausts, although technically to be set for .012 will be OK at .013. Tight exhaust valves overheat and can burn, which takes a nasty gouge out of one side, drops compression for its cylinder and makes overall life for your engine hard.

BTW: The only mechanic I trust is ME.

10-07-2005, 11:54 AM	#2 (permalink)
LittleRedToyota Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 299	did you set the timing with a timing light (and the diagnostic terminals TE1 and E1 jumpered) after putting it all back together? __________________ Stan Marshall 1994 4x4 22RE/w56 SWB pickup

10-07-2005, 12:11 PM	#5 (permalink)
4Hummer Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Canada Posts: 1,975	Yup Id say timming is off. GO rent a timming light. __________________ Michael 1991 4Runner 22RE. CHOP www.obsessiveoffroadclub.com

10-07-2005, 12:13 PM	#6 (permalink)
LittleRedToyota Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 299	that doesn't guarantee the timing is right...that'll get it close enough to run, but not necessarily to run well. i don't think you can really get around needing to set the timing with a light. some people claim to be able to do it by ear, but... you might be able to rent one from autozone. not sure where you are, but, if you are around pittsburgh, you can use mine. if you are elsewhere, maybe there is someone around you who will lend you one? or consider buying one...they really aren't that expensive and come in handy. __________________ Stan Marshall 1994 4x4 22RE/w56 SWB pickup

10-07-2005, 04:19 PM	#12 (permalink)
Zetoe Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: NorCAL Posts: 43	Use a timing light. This is the procedure I used on my 1990 22re with 128k. First set #1 to TDC by turning the main pulley to 0* and make sure the distributor is pointed at the #1 cylinder. Then fire it up and with a timing light, rotate the dizzy until it is 12* BTDC. (The service manual will say jump a connector and adjust timing to 5* BTDC but 12* is what 5* it is unjumped. ) Adjust the idle after the engine reaches operating temp and you're done! Drive around and enjoy the smoothe power. HTH __________________ 1990 Toyota Pickup 2WD [Dark Gray Metallic (179)] --Short bed/Std Cab, Amsoil panel filter + deckplate mod, diy ground kit, autometer tach, L46 4 speed/22RE, 195/75-14 Michelin LTX M/S 1984 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE [VG Beige] --K&N Panel Filter, RB cat-back, 13" Grant GT wheel, spare tire/jack delete 1983 Mazda RX-7 [Dover White] --302 H.O./T5 swap in progress

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10-07-2005, 11:54 AM	#3 (permalink)
jimbo74 Banned Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Nor*Cal Posts: 6,582	timing issue... it needs to be set correctly.. the connector must be properly shorted or it will make the values wrong.. here is a small part stolen from www.4crawler.com about it: Start up the vehicle. The timing is probably off since the distributor was moved. To get the vehicle to idle smoothly adjust the distributor freehand or set the timing the right way. - With the timing test connector (TE+ E+) shortedn set the timing to 5° BTDC/22RE or 0°BTDC/22R

10-07-2005, 01:12 PM	#8 (permalink)
jimbo74 Banned Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Nor*Cal Posts: 6,582	go buy a timing light... they are > $15 at harbor freight!!!!! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3343

10-07-2005, 01:43 PM	#10 (permalink)
jimbo74 Banned Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Nor*Cal Posts: 6,582	get teh valves adjusted.... or do it yourself..... i have done everything to my own truck... its actually i nthe garage right now in pieces, i am doing my timing chain right now... i think its pretty easy, but its a hell of a lot of bolts.... i wont touch my valves though, i know how to do it, but i swear, its a 50/50 chance, i never get it right.... im going to pay someone to adjsut them after i finish... i get it close, think its off, readjsut it, then its worse.....

01-04-2008, 03:21 AM	#13 (permalink)
spork_the_mortals Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: WA state Posts: 4	Why would adjusting your own valves seem daunting? It's not too hard to do and the only real critical part is the exhaust valves, since they run hotter and can benefit from a teeny bit more slack (.013) to allow them to cool more when they sit on the seats. With the engine off and at operating temp, I set the timing mark to fire on 1 and adjust both valves for #1, the intake for #2 and the exhaust for #3; Then I turn the crank 360 around to fire on #4 and adjust both valves for #4, the intake for #3 and the exhaust for #2. Easy. BTW: Intakes are at .008 and the exhausts, although technically to be set for .012 will be OK at .013. Tight exhaust valves overheat and can burn, which takes a nasty gouge out of one side, drops compression for its cylinder and makes overall life for your engine hard. BTW: The only mechanic I trust is ME.

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