bamayote

what oil are you using? this thing's been using castrol, but i was wondering if there's any true advantage to the "high mileage" brands out there.
and what about a dose of slick 50 or ptfe?
thanx ya'll
ohh... it's a 22re 86 4x4 pickup with 200k

brad

KING

I have a friend who has an '86 TOY PU with the 22RE and he was running 5W-30 up until 210K.

Imagine 5W30 here in PHOENIX, ARIZONA??

Until I told him he better upgrade to an oil a bit thicker.

He's now running 10W30.

To the question at hand, I wouldn't have a professional answer.

jjdeneen

i have a 20r with a good 200k at least and run straight 30 weight.

mine does burn oil, does your burn any?

bamayote

it's not burning any, but it's loosing out from the timing chain cover. i'm gonna have that fixed next week. got the seal in the passenger seat as we speak.
i'd do it myself, but by the time i have the time to fix it......... i think i'd rather have that fixed pretty quick.
it's spraying too much oil over the engine compartment for my comfort..............lol
only looses about a qt per 5000...........so i'm told by the previous owner........only had it for 24hrs now.........hehe
thanx
brad

bamayote

it's not burning any, but it's loosing out from the timing chain cover. i'm gonna have that fixed next week. got the seal in the passenger seat as we speak.
i'd do it myself, but by the time i have the time to fix it......... i think i'd rather have that fixed pretty quick.
it's spraying too much oil over the engine compartment for my comfort..............lol
only looses about a qt per 5000...........so i'm told by the previous owner........only had it for 24hrs now.........hehe

what about synthetics................anyone running syn's in these trucks?
thanx
brad

KING

Well to my knowledge, synthetic oil is broken down very far down. The minerals are so tiny, that they can get past a small leak, if you were to have one.

Regular dyno oil is a lot more thicker, if you will and will not get by a small leak.

At least this is what I've been told.

bamayote

gotcha
thanx
brad

Highland Runner

I changed my 3.0 over to synthetic at 200,000 miles with no problems. Synthetic will cause leaks ONLY because of its cleaning ability. The dino oil in you engine has coated the parts with a thin layer of sluge that closes gaps where leaks may occur. If you already have a small leak syn will make it worse unless you clean your engine first of the sludge. This will cause the seals to swell back up. High mileage oil has conditioners to swell seals back up. I have no leaks after changing to syn. The engine runs better also. Check out this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...=the+oil+drop.
Also check out this site http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi? for good info on the best oils, filters etc.
Don't use PTFE or a Fram filter in your engine either. Use a filter with an anti drainback valve. This helps keep the timing chain tight on the 22re at startup.

bamayote

great.
the fram filter info is good advice. i'll certainly follow.
thanx ya'll
brad

Marc

I used Valvoline MaxLife in one of my vehicles that leaked oil from either a gasket or seal. After about a year of using MaxLife I noticed my oil consumption was reduced dramaticaly.

bamayote

THANX MARC!!

foxtrapper

Got about 360,000 on my engine. It's burning a touch now, but that mostly has to do with the day or two I drove it without any oil in the engine. Now I only get about 2,000 to a quart.

High mileage oils do have some seal swelling agents to help hard rubber seals hold. Not worth it in my opinion.

Oil additives, especially those like Slick50 do not work, and may well harm. But, some people like using them and will swear by them.

Synthetics are fine oils, but overkill imo. Contrary to the claims about super cleaning, they actually are not. The content of additives, including cleaning agents, is specified by the S_ designation. There is no extra in a synthetic oil. Their propensity for leaking is their flow ability. What was a wet spot with dino oil will be a leak with synthetic.

Mike Murrell

I sold an '83 22R with 300K. The guy I sold it too still has it.

I used Castrol 10W/30 GTX in the winter; Castrol 20W/50 GTX in the summer. I live in a warm place, so less than 10W/30 might be best for guys in Michigan, etc.

I really doubt the brand matters much. Just do it and use a good filter.

Valve adjustments help too. Mine got tighter; not looser as some think they do. Also helps to change coolant/tranny gear oil/diff oil once a yr. too.

86toyota

I think I'm going to be sick.I'm one of those misinformed people who thought fram was a good filter,I've been running them for years in all my toyota trucks.I thought they had a ADBV in them?What about factory filters?Oh guess what my engine is going to need?It's getting noisier

beachtaco

so what would you guys recommend to flush the oil? going to a shop and using a flushing system or one of those oil flushing bottles you can get at parts store.

Mike Murrell

I've read all of the Fram horror stories and somehow managed to get 270K out of an '87 Accord - still have it. I'm not saying they're good filters, but if you do change your oil often, I really don't believe it matters whose filter you use.

If you aren't religious about oil changes, then a higher quality filter like Wix or the dealer filter is likely a better way to go.

Shane

It certainly does matter in a 22RE. A filter sans anti-drainback will result in a dry topend on startup. Stick with the Toyota brand filters for the 22, they are very good quality and not very expensive at all.

SolidDigital

every fram I've ever used had an ADBV, and they're really not all that bad. The main complaint I've always heard about them is they use cardboard end caps instead of metal.. The extra guard is a little cheap but the tough guard when compared to other top brands (don't have the link right now) seems to be alright except for the cardboard end caps. search around bobistheoilguy.com great site, lots of info

after reading up there and viewing the many pictures of cut open filters they have posted on there I decided to go with supertech oil filters, even though they're $1 less than the fram they have metal end caps and filter as well as the tough guard

foxtrapper

They all have an anti-drain back valve. The current wives tail about oil filters is to squall in horror over the possibility that one isn't installed except in factory filters. Hog wash and horse feathers, but that doesn't deter the acolytes. Many of whom fail to notice that the oil drains out the galley through the bottom end bearings.

Fram has a very good filter media. Their failure is poor quality materials and poor manufacturing quality. I've had several fail on me, and don't currently run fram filters. That said, the oil filter failures merely resulted in unfiltered oil going through my engine for several thousand miles. Honestly, that's not a big deal as the engine is not spitting out quantities of metal shavings and the oil is changed at 3-5k intervals.

Highland Runner

Not all Fram filters have an anti-drainback valve; unless they very recently changed them. There are also other filter brands that do not have them. I used to use Frams until I stated reading post on the http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?. I started cutting filters apart as many do on that site. I cut apart Frams, Toyotas made by purolator, wix etc. Once you do this you will never use a Fram again. Fram's quality is WAY below any other filter. The insides look like 1st graders hot glued cardboard together to make them.
I believe a Fram filter is the cause of the timing chain break in my old 22re truck. My brther in law insisted on using Frams in it. When I was rebuilding the engine, I showed him the cut open filter. There was no anti-drainback vavle on it. I explained that the tensioner for the chain runs on oil pressure. If there is no pressure on startup the chain flaps around wildly causing it to break.
The Frams that did have anti-drainback valves were made of rubber. They didn't seal very well and leaked all the oil back into the pan. Thats why its important to get a filter with a silicone valve.
Since I have been using Pure One filters there is no noise at startup. While using Frams there was always noise for 2-3 seconds so thats enough to convince me.