JimmyK

IT'S ALIVEEEEEEEEE!!!! Haha man what a difference, it's unbeleivable!

At the request of others Im re-adding all my pics and questions

------------ RE-EDITING---------------------

My first problem was this

Stripped manifold top bolt, where to connect the circled pipe (found the small nub RIGHT next to where the throttle body and supecharger connect) and what to torque the bolts to (I believe its 13ft lbs now)

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/jkhan/4runner/where.jpg <-- this picture applies to all the questions above.


-------- Im going to add all the other questions and pictures later today --------

The FTC from URD has a vacuum tube conenctor on it and a pipe that comes with a T fitting. You have to tap the T fitting into the boost port on the back of the SC as shown below.



Initially I had no idea what connected here but I had a pipe folded up against the firewall in the back which I could not see at all and Midiwalls (Marks) picture (Post # 30) later shows where it is located and demonstrates this all very nicely.



I had no clue where this went at first its the 4WD VSV that connects to the front of the stock manifold which I have shown in post #23. I thought it connected to the open port shown in picture # 2 but as you can see from the pic in post #20 its way to small --

BUT I finally figured out from Marks picture it TAPS into the hose that connects to the open port above as later shown Marks Post #30.






And finally this big old guy all the way at the back which was originally connected to my airbox via a steel pipe welded onto the stock manifold. The TRD kit has a thick replacement hose for this whole setup. So remove this entire hose and the one connected to your airbox and use the one supplied by toyota, it will run from this rear location to the airbox and hooks directly into it.

JimmyK

First problem figured out, I found the second nub near the throttle body...

FilthyRich

How did you strip it?? Over tightening or was the bolt put in at an angle?

JimmyK

over tightening I had somebody with me and they gave me the wrong torque number... its my fault though I should have known 45 foot lbs was ridiculously high for aluminum..

FilthyRich

If it is in then leave it. i don't think it matters. If it bothers you then head down the Sears and get a stripped bolt kit. THey are fairly cheap and a handy to have in the tool box.

Did you get to the URD stuff yet???

midiwall

I crank them until they're pulled tight, then give them a slight additional nudge. I've never used a torque wrench on them.

Do you have the install manual? If not, you can download it here:

http://www.customtacos.com/tech/inde...x_v2&id=45&c=5

JimmyK

Hey man, I think Ill leave it in the way it is then, it seems pretty solid.

yeah I got the URD kit already did the injectors, going to do plugs and thermostat tonight, maybe the FTC. And I think Ill do the fuel pump next week sometime.

Can I drive the truck with everything installed except the new walbro fuel pump?

And is there a breakin period with a S/C?



Mid, thanks for the heads up, Ill just becareful plus that sponge little gasket should seal up pretty easily.

midiwall

ooo... ummm, have you tried to fire it up yet? Are the injectors 305's or 325's or?

The reason I ask is that when you fire it up, (don't forget to reset the ECU!) the ECU is going to be in it's cold-start mode. It's going to figure on having to run the engine rich, and it will crank up the injector pulse width (this will allow more fuel into engine). The problem with this is that you now have much larger injectors on the truck than stock, but the ECU has no idea about that. So, what the ECU thinks is "a bit rich" will turn into "a whole lotta rich".

In short, it's going to be running VERY rich. The ECU will be able to adjust for some of it, but it can't know how rich the engine's running until it can get a reading from the O2 sensor, which means that... the engine has to be running.

There's a good chance that you will have a HECK of a time getting it running at all, and then it's going to run like crap for a while. This is one reason why you need the FTC.

I know on my truck, with 305cc injectors, it will BARELY run if I disconnect the SMT.


This may be your saving grace until you get the FTC installed. The stock fuel pump won't be able to fully load the new injectors, so the engine won't be running as rich as it would if you had installed the Walbro.

So, "yes", you can run without the Walbro. _BUT_ do plan on doing this soon - the larger fuel pump is what will save you from the high RPM leanout.


Yeup... but given the nature of it, the internals are gonna be spinning VERY fast no matter what you do. The breakin is generally about it quieting down as the bearings settle in.


Yeah, it's never been a problem for me.

FilthyRich

If you want to come to my place I will be more than happy to help with the fuel pump. You WILL need a floor jack and remeber to have as little gas in the tank as possible

JimmyK

Hey Mark, dont worry I will DEFINITELY install the FTC before I boot her up the first time, plus the FTC doesnt look like a tough install either. I think they are 320cc injectors, I forget exactly right now.. Do I still have to remove the fuse?


I might take you up on the offer bro, I have the floor jack and all but its nice to have an experienced person. Every job I have ever done on the 4runner has been 3 times faster and 10 times easier the second time around... experience counts for a lot.

Do you also have a pully remover? I have the URD pulley but I dont have that tool they show in the documentation to remove it.



Thanks again BOTH of you.

midiwall

Yeup, definitely. You want the ECU to start from scratch in learning about the mass amount of air that you're about to throw in to the engine.

The FTC is an "easy" install if you've got good wiring diagrams. If I remember right, you bought all this as a package from URD? If so, then you should be set in that regard - and, resisit the temptation to mess with the maps in the FTC. Gagdet will have loaded a good starting point and you should be fine to run with that for a while.


Have fun man! You'll love all the new power.

FilthyRich

I am running the stock pulley. I am waitng to see Gadget before I swap pulleys. Plus, I am happy with the performance now.

Let me know if/ when you want to come down. It won't take too long to drop the tank, add the Walbro and reinstall

JimmyK

Thanks brother, Im super excited I havent been so excited about something new since I bought my house years ago. And dont worry Ill make sure to remove that fuse when I get home tonight.

Work is killing me, Im in finanace and we are going through a quarter close, so Ill probably end up working this weekend, but how does next weekend sound to you?

rimpainter.com

Hey Jimmy -

Does your rig have the fuel guage problem? If so, the Walbro install would be the time to deal with that. Just a thought.

FilthyRich

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f15/gwnf-oct-14-16-a-68543/
We are camping that weekend. You should try and make it

JimmyK

Cant make the trip bro I have to work saturday all day plus my baby is in peices in the garage need to fix her up

Anyways I added more noob questions please help

JimmyK

I DO have the fuel gauge problem BUT Im not to worried about it unless its a VERY easy fix like bendig a bracket or something

Localmotion

man...you did all the cool mods first!!! Off topic but what comapny do you work for? Im thinking about switching to Finance from International mgmt. Good luck on the install

midiwall

The tube in #3 goes to the fitting in #2. That tube is the feeder for the 4WD system. It runs to a canister under your front driver's fender that acts as a vacuum reserve tank.

The tube in #4 goes to a fitting on the bottom of the throttle body. You may have to pull the TB to get it on.

And, I'm confused about #1. I take it that the FTC has a manifold vacuum input on it? If so, then yes, that would be the place to put it. Otherwise, that nipple on the back of the S/C is where the fuel pressure regulator goes, and it's generally T'd to support a boost gauge.

JimmyK

Hey bud, well I finally figurd out where # 4 goes, he goes into the big fat hose that connects to the airbox, thats what the extension in the TRD kit is for (replaces that big steel pipe welded onto the original manifold).

and I also double checked and it says connect the FTC to the boost nublet on the SC'er which is also correct so I have only ONE problem until this ENTIRE project is complete... (well other then the thermostat and fuel pump)

Well I brought that plug next to the second port on the S/Cer but MAN it seems tiny compared to that connector. The hose next to is almost twice its size, you 100% sure I should throw that on there?