2" diff drop
#1
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2" diff drop
Is a 2" diff drop possible on a 3rd gen Runner? If it's excessive droop that kills CV's, would dropping the front diff more solve that problem? Is seems like it would be fairly easy, but I guess I'm concerned that the torque on those longer bolts would be too much? What about adding in a couple brackets (similar to the Trailmaster kit) to keep it solid?
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Is a 2" diff drop possible on a 3rd gen Runner? If it's excessive droop that kills CV's, would dropping the front diff more solve that problem? Is seems like it would be fairly easy, but I guess I'm concerned that the torque on those longer bolts would be too much? What about adding in a couple brackets (similar to the Trailmaster kit) to keep it solid?
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I'm currently running a total of 0.0" of lift, with stock tiny semi-bald tires. Only had the truck a week, but I bought it as a dedicated trail rig so I'm re-searching my options (you can bet I've done a ton of searching on here in the past week, though). I had a body lift on my last Runner (2nd gen), but this is my first experiment with suspension mods.
I really like what everybody is saying about the Tundra coils for the front and the LC coils for the back, but there's lots of mud and water around here so I'd like to go higher than what that lift alone provides (I'm going body lift as well, but need more susp lift). I'm also looking at the Trailmaster 6" drops, but with that I'm worried about lack of flex.
And finally, before someone states the obvious: "Go SAS!", don't get me wrong I would love to but even doing the work myself will cost me $5K in parts to do it right and I don't want to put that much $ into the rig.
I really like what everybody is saying about the Tundra coils for the front and the LC coils for the back, but there's lots of mud and water around here so I'd like to go higher than what that lift alone provides (I'm going body lift as well, but need more susp lift). I'm also looking at the Trailmaster 6" drops, but with that I'm worried about lack of flex.
And finally, before someone states the obvious: "Go SAS!", don't get me wrong I would love to but even doing the work myself will cost me $5K in parts to do it right and I don't want to put that much $ into the rig.
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Pretty much the max amount of lift you're gonna get outside of a bracket lift or SAS is 3". If you want more, you're gonna have to look at brackets or SAS options. Bracket lifts, IMHO, aren't the best route for a trail rig. I ain't saying it can't be done, I just think there's better options.
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I wouldnt go over one. You are gonna have to mess alot with your front skidplate and the two mounting brackets to the front differential would be exposed to alot of more possible damage. Just my .02.
#7
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First off, the 2" drop spacers for your diff will not work. Why? Well, you have 3 mounts total on your front diff. The 1" spacers drop just the front end mounts, while the diff is able to pivot enough on that rear mount. 2" and you're going to break off that 3rd mount in the back. So, thats why no one goes that route.
As for the drop-bracket lifts, I have one, and pretty much am stoked, but, I have found that with the 4runners, they are a little too top-heavy for this amount of lift, unless you have a very wide stance. I would stick to the Tuff-Country 5" drop-bracket lift if you want to go that route. They are solid.
Whats interesting is that you will technically get better "flex" out of a drop bracket style lift because you are keeping the suspension geometry at a stock location. With coils/spacers, you are pushing the spindle assembly downwards and "loosing" your downtravel.
Looking back, I think I would stick to the 2.5" front, 3.5" rear lift, with a 1-2" body lift and trim for 35's.
Click the "pictures" link in my sig, and it will give you a bunch of information. I have a mini-writeup in there.
As for the drop-bracket lifts, I have one, and pretty much am stoked, but, I have found that with the 4runners, they are a little too top-heavy for this amount of lift, unless you have a very wide stance. I would stick to the Tuff-Country 5" drop-bracket lift if you want to go that route. They are solid.
Whats interesting is that you will technically get better "flex" out of a drop bracket style lift because you are keeping the suspension geometry at a stock location. With coils/spacers, you are pushing the spindle assembly downwards and "loosing" your downtravel.
Looking back, I think I would stick to the 2.5" front, 3.5" rear lift, with a 1-2" body lift and trim for 35's.
Click the "pictures" link in my sig, and it will give you a bunch of information. I have a mini-writeup in there.
Last edited by BajaRunner; 11-22-2007 at 06:39 AM.
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just do what I did get a tacoma fabtech 6in lift and use it for the front and then do a 3link in the rear till your ready for a SAS. or if you want real cheap, do a leafspring conversion in the rear and then do a super cheap SAS..
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thanks guys. I was considering going the drop bracket lift anyways, so now it looks like I will for sure. SC4Runner, I've read all the info you have in your 'sig, and it sounds pretty decent. This may be a stupid question, but is it possible to buy ONLY the front half of those lifts (Trailmaster, Tuff Country). I know you got yours used off a guy doing a SAS, but I have to assume I won't have that much luck.
Also, I'm not really worried about it being too tippy as I'm planning on running 35" Boggers (they are 14.5" wide).
Also, I'm not really worried about it being too tippy as I'm planning on running 35" Boggers (they are 14.5" wide).
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