TBob

got it installed and my truck wouldn't shift. The lever was hitting the
metal bracket that goes around the rubber boot. The bracket could be modifed but I think I would have to hack out the whole center section and the rubber boot I think would still feel like it's beeing stretched - because it is, it's 2" higher and the lever throw is further than what it was. So what should I do to fix this? Any ideas?

Thanks
TBob

jimbo74

www.4crawler.com sells a kit to fix this seems his site is down right now, try back later...

marlin crawler also sells a kit for this

Jonathan

What year truck is it. On my 92 PU I cut out the center metal piece and never had a problem. The shifts don't feel quite as firm because of the lift, but it wasn't that bad. If it really bothers you go for the kit above.

TBob

sorry I'm a dumb a$$ - it's an 03. Ya it bothers me even if I clear the metal you can feel the boot stretch every shift - sucks

Thanks,
TBob

TBob

anyone else sell a kit?

Thanks,
TBob

TBob

Hi didn't realize this was RB's site - his kit if for the transfer, not the 5 speed.

Thanks,
TBob

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Easy fix is to invert the rubber boot, a little hard to see in the picture below, but either turn it inside out or put it on upside down:



So instead of this: ___/\___, use this: ---\/----

More info:
http://www.4Crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#ManualTranny

Or there are short throw options for the tranny, a bit over $200 for the tranny shifter.

TBob

Roger - you da man!!
how about the metal rig - cut out the center section?

Thanks
TBob

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

If it is in the way, it can be trimmed or cut out, no problem. It is covered by the heavy rubber boot and the upper decorative boot, so it should not be seen.

TBob

flipping the boot didn't work.... so my choices 1) welded extension or 2) bending the shifter. - neither seem very appealing

Swede

This was the biggest PITA for me as well when I did mine. I ended up shredding the boot and eventually just got rid of it. It also didn't work for me upside down.

I first got rid of the lowest "flat" boot that goes on the bottom of the stack of boots. Then tried to modify the main big (middle) boot screwed that one up and got rid of it too. I also tossed the metal plate that clamps them all down and ended up with just the top leather boot and because the noise that came through the hole in the tunnel I had to try and devise something else.

Here's what I eventually came up with.

[IMG][/IMG]




Because the boots, after the BL, interfered with the movement of the shifters I, in effect, lowered the tunnel to the level of the top of the tranny by cutting out 3/4" MDF and laminating them together and installing a piece of flat 3/8" rubber mat over the hole. The MDF is just temporary untill I get something else to replace it but it's been in there for 6 months now and has stood up very well to say the least. Canadian west coast fall and winters are not exactly warm and dry if you know what I mean. Shifting and the noise levels are all back to normal!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Flipping the boot should do the same thing. You do need to push the tip of the boot way down to the base of the shifter (and yes you have to shove it down and over the fat part of the stick(s) to do this. Make an inverted cone out of it and instead of sticking up 2" onto the shifters, it sinks down 2" into the floor.

And if the shifter is binding only in one direction (like in one gear or in all the gears on one side of the pattern), then bend it away from that side. It is not hard to bend, no heat required (os desired) to bend it. You bend it at the 1/2" dia. bottom part, not the big fat top part. You can eitehr do it in the cab (pipe over the shifter) or mark it and pull it out and clamp one end down, pipe over the other end and bend away. Test the fit and re-dend if needed. Marlin Crawler's shop bends the levers in the truck for dual t-case installations, by the way.

Or for a little over $200, a short throw kit can be made for the tranny shifter or $100 for the t-case to raise it up 3/4"-1" and shorten the lever's throw angle by half. This will completely eliminate any shifting problems. Or raise up the entime drivetrain (motor mount spacers and a high clearance t-case crossmember). Not that hard to install.

Swede

Isn't there a possibility of doing damage to the internals of the tranny by bending it still mounted in the tranny, or is the shifter that easy to bend?

TBob

When I flipped the boot I did push it way down - still didn't work. When flipped the angle of the boot is going the oppisite direction it should go so it doesn't really help. I guess bending is my only option, how hard is it to remove the shifter?

Thanks,
TBob

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I've never tried it, only going by how Marlin does his. That is why I mentioned removing the stick and bending it outside the truck if you are concerned.