david in germany

I started getting this iritating squeeking sound from the rear end. come to find out it is the drive shaft! I think it is the rear ujoint! can this thing be changed? i have pumped it full of grease but still crazy squeek when starting so whenever i put torque to the shaft it squeeks (letting out the clutch)but not when the truck is crusing i cant hear it..
any ideas (i checked the dif fluid)
another question
where is a good place to order brake shoes online?
Thanks all!
David

fenman666

sounds like your needle rollers in rear uj have broke up..... they can be replaced without to much trouble

jx94148

I saw a decent write up on U joint replacement on Pirate4x4.com, i'll look to see if I can find it again.

Fahrenheit 451

It sounds like your rear u-joint has frozen up, has broken needle bearings or both. U-joints are an easy swap for the most part. A couple retainers, a couple clips, a little attention to detail, small bits of swearing...
Possibly the easiest way to fix it, is going to a driveline shop. They can drop one out and replace it for probably an hours labor or less. Just make sure and check out what the shop minimum is first.
As for doing it yourself, if you don't mind a few scraped knuckles and have even the most basic hand tools as well as a big C-clamp, it really isn't a tough job....generally.
I have had to take a chisel and break the caps before to get things started and actually, even when not necessary, it speeds things up LOL!
Don't let it go for very long at all. If the joint freezes up, it won't rotate and will put stress on the driveline yokes(?) and pinion flange under load. If it gets bad tempered and breaks and the driveline drops...well let's not go there. No point in making a simple u-joint problem cost you a whole driveline or more

david in germany

I will be doing the labor myself and have found the part online for about $25 pluss shipping is this decent?
I am going by toyota later this week (next town over) and ask about the price maby it will be ok...
David :cry:

jx94148

I finally found the write up on changing them. I'm sure its too late but here it is for future reference.

Pirate tech U joint change

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Good write-up Matt that guy did.
Makes me want to do mine, and it doesn't even need it.

Hey, he mentioned to use Splicer U joints.
Is this true with Toyota, or does Toyota box their own brand?

I'm sure some day mine will need to be done.

jx94148

That's Spicer, not Splicer.

The write up is on an FJ 40. I bet Toyota sells a re-badged joint under the Genuine Toyota name, I doubt they are made by Toyota though. I'm sure Napa or Autozone can look up the right on on the 'puter.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

He he, I knew that
I have seen that name in the mags for years, but never really paid attention if it was Spicer or Splicer.
Now I know

Fahrenheit 451

I think the only thing I would disagree with on that writeup is the use of a hammer to reinstall the caps. Although it says "tap", that middle surface really isn't that strong and I think somebody that got a bit frustrated from a needle bearing falling down or some similar event could wind up striking it often enough or hard enough to weaken or even crack the cap. I think using a decent sized c-clamp along with a socket that fits inside the cap works really well with less likelihood of damage.