Tacotime99

Hello everyone,

I just picked up a new to me 99 Tacoma 4x4 V6 5 spd 185K+. I'm seeing some issues when I take off from a stop that I'm hoping some of you could point me in the right direction.

First, when sitting at a stop it's very difficult to get into first gear (clutch has to be all the way down to floor). Think this might be clutch related (not sure it was ever changed )

When I accelerate quickly the engine feels like it's missing or stuttering and it feels like it has power loss (bogged down). Then when I get past 2K RMP it smooths out and the power feels like its back.

In the same scenario, if I accelerate more gradually (not stomp on it) the issue is not remotely as bad (almost gone) until I'm hitting past 3K RMP and it kind of stutters (almost like the clutch is slipping). I have a feeling that some of it is clutch related, but I'd love some input from ya'll.

Doing some searching around it sounds like it could be a couple of things like: Fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, MAF sensor dirty and or the throttle body gummed up.

I've not had time to dig into since getting the truck (my other mode of transportation for wife crapped out so I had to fix that).

My plan was to change/clean the following:

• new plugs
• Sea Foam via: Brake booster vacuum hose, oil pan and gas tank
• new wires
• new air filter (done)
• new fuel filter
• Oil and filter Change
• Change diff, tranny and transfer case fluids
• Clean throttle body
• Clean MAF sensor

Based on the above info and the list of things I'm planning to do, do you think this should solve the problem or should I look at something more or something else.

I'm also considering doing the oil catch can mod for the PCV valve.

Any input or insights is much appreciated.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Start off with a basic tune up. Remove the throttle body and clean it, the back side will have buildup in it. And clean the IAC valve also.
I wouldn't waste the money on seafoam. I used to recommend it but not any more.

Your first issue with getting it into 1st gear. Have you driven a manual trans before? You kinda have to put the clutch in all the way to shift. If it's to the floor and it's still hard to get into gear the clutch master and slave cylinder may need replacing, start with bleeding it first though.

To test the clutch if it's going out or not, drive as slow as you can in 5th gear and push the gas pedal all the way down until you get up to a good speed. If the engine revs but doesn't accelerate the clutch is slipping, if the RPMs hold and you slowly accelerate then it's holding.

rworegon

No check engine light, right?
Do your list above and see now it responds. Also, check all grounds for good clean connections and be sure the are no vacuum hose/intake tube leaks. You may also consider as PM flushing the brakes and power steering.

Tacotime99

Since I already bought the sea foam, it would be a waste to not use it...can't hurt I suppose. Why do you no longer like it? Are there better products for burning off the sludge and carbon build up?

I should have put in there that this is not my first manual, all my trucks I've had for the last 11 years have been stick. This clutch just seems different. I've never had to push a clutch all the way to the floor to get it into 1st on any vehicle. My last truck was a 90' Toyota Pickup (4x4 as well) and it would go into gear rather easier than this one. I'll keep playing with it and maybe it just needs to be adjusted. I'll do the 5th gear test like you suggested, that's a new one to me (thanks, i like learning new tricks).

No CEL on, I'm going to have it scanned for stored codes today. Maybe there's something in there that's not showing up right now.

So I'll add check the grounds and vacuum lines to the list. (not sure where the grounds are that I should check other than the battery, could you point me in the right direction on that?)

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Sea foam doesn't break down carbon as advertised. I have had old engine parts and sea foam doesn't take the carbon off. The ingredient that removes water in the fuel is nothing more than isopropyl alcohol aka rubbing alcohol.
The ingredient that create the "white smoke" is a type of oil I cannot think of the name of it.

I have had no change in MPG, idle smoothness, throttle response when using sea foam.

Tacotime99

Good to know, thanks.

So just a little update, I took the truck down to the parts store to have them scan for codes and nothing was stored in the ECU. So it doesn't seem like there is something significant enough to cause the system to freak out.

Next step; all the stuff I've not done above. Parts will be on order today!

Tacotime99

Another update:
After a long weekend in the garage building dueling trees for some customers and then cleaning it all up. I was able to poke around the engine. I'm adding to the list replace ALL vacuum lines (That I can). Many of them are cracked at the connection point so I can only assume that's not helping.

I found that the air intake box was completely separated at the box just in front of the MAF sensor and being held on by duct tape (not what you would call the best seal possible. So no air was was/is going into the air intake in front of the sensor, but not filtered. I can only assume that the sensor is massively dirty because of this. I was able to tape it back together for now and took it for a drive, there was a massive improvement in throttle response and power in the low end. However, it's still missing and gets bogged down.

The engine has a little back fire every now and then when I'm parked and in neutral still.

Instead of going with a factory cold air box (that's kind of what's in there now) I ordered up an S&B "Cold Air Intake" and I'm going to replace the filter with an AFE Pro S dry flow cone when I get it. The factory replacement would have been about $180 shipped this was $200...I know I'm not gaining much if anything with a CAI, but it will clean up the appearance of the engine bay a bit and I needed something anyways.

Next up, I'm going to beef up the grounds this week. On another forum, someone did a little write up on adding some grounds and (linking the body to battery, battery to frame, engine block to frame). Early reports are positive that this has helped out some other people.

I'll continue posting updates as I go and get some pictures in here when parts come in and work actually begins.

Tacotime99

Update:
Changed the oil and checked/improved grounds (added a ground from engine to frame to battery and battery to body. It's not missing as bad as it was and it seems to have gained some power, now I'm feeling it more bog down at higher RPM.

Parts are coming in and by next weekend should be able to do a major tune up.

Clutch issues continue. This morning was strange, I had the clutch smashed to the ground and I could not get it in 1st gear. I had to take off in 2nd gear and that was very difficult to get into that gear. After driving for about 15-20 min the clutch was back to normal and I was able to get it into 1st gear to take off from a stop.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

I would check fuel pressure .. sounds like the fuel pump to me


.

Tacotime99

I'll have to have that checked or check it myself.

I picked up an OBDII scanner from harbor freight (the deluxe version), should that have the fuel pressure gauge in it?

Tacotime99

I'll have to have that checked or check it myself.

I picked up an OBDII scanner from harbor freight (the deluxe version), should that have the fuel pressure gauge in it?

After driving it more today, it's not missing as bad as it was and it seems to have gained some power, now I'm feeling it more bog down at higher RPM.

Tacotime99

Update:
Check engine light just came on. Ill read the code tonight.

Tacotime99

Found the code was a P0446 (EVAP system). Seems pretty common. I cleared the code and replaced my gas cap. I think that was the problem. The previous owner did the diff breather mod and located the breather a little too close to the cap and it interfering when the cap was screwed on.

The issue with loss of power when it's warm or cold continues.

So far, I've beefed up the grounds, I've changed the oil and filter and replaced the gas cap. This weekend is the major tune up (might try and change fuel filter today).

Tacotime99

Update:
Replaced the fuel filter and that seemed to work for that evening...then it came back on my drive to work the next day.

When I listen closer to the engine it sounds like a backfire at high RMP and the stutter (seems the best way to describe it) is still there. Under load it's worse, I can't pull out into traffic and floor it because I don't have enough power to get to speed. I have to very gradually work up to my normal speed in street traffic.

Tacotime99

Ok so the tune must have worked because the truck is running great right now.

Time and more driving will tell if it holds.

Tacotime99

Did some seriously needed maintenance this weekend and threw in a couple new parts.

New S&B air intake (POS, never buy one, its crap). I'm going to look at replacing it in the near future, but I had to have something since you can see my factory air box was toast.
AEM dry flow filter on it.
ADD W1 oil catch can.
New plugs and wires (the original plugs were still in this thing at 188K :eek
Did a little exhaust wrap on the Air intake tube...not sure if that is going to help any, but it makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.









All cleaned up and put back together.