pendrag

When my throttle is in the completely closed (no stress on the accelerator cable) position, there's about 1/4" of play in the throttle cable and accelerator cable before they engage. Can these cables get out of adjustment over the years and cause idling speed issues?

EDITED TO ADD:

I came across this thread: How to get better throttle response FOR FREE!

I used the instructions therein to adjust the accelerator cable on my 4runner. It took a little fine-tuning, but I got the idle when the engine was at operating temperature, the accessories were off, and transmission was in drive, to bottom out at around 800 RPM, which is very nice and smooth; whereas before, my idle was down around 650 RPM and the truck was idling very rough.

Now, the FSM says that idle speed should be within 650 to 750 RPM on the 2.7 L 3RZ-FE engine. That said, my truck was shaking and vibrating when the RPM was reading 650-700, and it didn't really settle out until around 800 or so. I don't know if the dash RPM gauge is just inaccurate, or whether for some reason, my truck likes it better when it is idling a little high, but 800 RPM seemed to produce a smoother idle (which I would think is better for the engine). If I'm wrong, let me know!

pendrag

I thought this resolved my low idling issue, but it's still idling low (not quite as bad) and it's started sputtering and coughing when I turn it off. My guess is it's related to the throttle plate not completely closing when the engine is turned off. I'm going to reset the throttle cable length and try and figure this out again.

BigBallsMcFalls

slack should be taken up bit no more.

you do not adjust idle rpm's with the cable

Toyoda22

You need a little slack in the throttle cable so that your throttle plate can shut completly, Like Big Balls said DONT adjust idle with the cable. i don't believe our trucks have a throttle adjustment. My truck does not like to idle where at the stock setting either. I've been trying to figure out why for quite a while. Getting new wires tomorrow and seeing if that makes a difference.

Do adjust your throttle cable so that there is a little play when throttle is closed. keeping it tight will give you better repsonse from your foot on the pedal, especially helpful if you have a manual transmission

pendrag

Yeah, I was trying to cheat and get it to idle right. I reset the cable length so the plate closes completely and I'm right back to the low idling. Let me know about the wires, because they're about the only thing I haven't swapped yet. The 2.7 L has a bad EGR valve giving me a CEL, but the 3.4 L (which has been idling low for years) doesn't.

It's just been out of the blue for the 2.7 L, although my other truck has been doing it for a couple years. I fooled around with the 3.4 L earlier in the year, doing a throttle body cleaning, IAC cleaning, new plugs, MAF cleaning, swapping the MAF and Throttle Position Sensor for new units, nothing. I finally ran out of time and money and set the project back to a lower priority, choosing to focus on putting in ATF coolers on both trucks and now on the mini-header on my 2.7L (which now has an exhaust leak between the header and the exhaust pipe, I think...$#^$#!).

Might be the O2 sensors? I need to put a scan gauge on it to monitor their output.


Oh, and I'm moving on Wednesday, so I'll be trying to hide in the corner of an apartment complex parking lot to work on my trucks occasionally.

I'm noticing a lot of posts about idling problems lately - wonder if it's the cold weather.