kepico

1998 Limited 4Runner w\ABS, 110k.

Had what I would call very weak brakes (has newer fronts, rears (drums) to my knowledge were never done). Did a powerflush (with Motorvite - which works great BTW) didn't help (but fluid looks good now!).

Took it to shop for unrelated issue but had them look over the rear brakes while it was there and they said they were fine and plenty of material left nothing leaking. They adjusted the rears get the truck back..man what a difference brakes feel great like they are supposed to. Fast forward about 100 miles later and my weak brakes are back, it is obviously the rears again. I did the EBrake while backing up and it did not help

I am thinking this has to be the wheel cylinders getting stuck? Can they do that I always thought they would leak when bad? On a side note the truck was very rarely used these past two years or so.

BajaRunner

Could try and adjust them by hand. Do a few clicks only though.

There are some plugs on the inside of your drums, right above the axle. Take them off and stick a flathead screwdriver in there. You'll have to shine a flashlight in there and see what im talking about. Its an adjusting gear with teeth, that need to be turned to be tightened.

They only go one way to click. Click them about 5 times on each side. If it doesnt feel any better, do another 5 clicks.

BajaRunner

Heres what Im talking about

http://www.deserted1.com/FSM/Repair_...4wdpr/remo.pdf

They are explaining how to loosen the brakes to remove the drum. You want to just tighten it, so no need for the second screwdriver. And, the way they are turning it is actually the way you want to turn it. (dont know why they have it backwards).

ohio4runner4x4

I had a similar problem with mine....back brakes lost their stopping power. Turns out my rear axle seals were leaking fluid onto the pads and drum! Kinda made a gooky mess....My quick fix was to sand down the pads and drum and it helped until the new seals came in.

kepico

Yeah I was thinking the seals as well until they said everything is clean back there. The adjusting of the brakes to me seems useless as they did that once, it should not lose it's adjustment in a few weeks which it did?

Tells me there is something else going on back there, I just did'nt know if wheel cylinders could "stick" without leaking, all the ones I have seen leak I have never had any stick but that does not mean it does not happen.

ebelen1

They said it was clean but did they actually check? I know I was having problems and w/o pulling the hub, we didn't figure out that a seal was bad. It wasn't dripping like others but it was dried up. My buddy cleaned it out and when we rechecked it a few days later, same issue.

I ended up changing the seal but haven't had the time to check. This seems to be a recurring problem for many 3rd gens from what I've read recently.

MTL_4runner

I don't know where you're located but if you live in a rust belt also check your rear drum bellcranks.
......make sure they move freely and aren't rusted in place like mine were.

kepico

It seems to be more of a fading issue, I drive 40 miles each way to work and at starting the brakes don't feel bad but after some miles and a few stops the braking from the rear gets progressivly worse.

I am going to open up the rear this weekend what should I look for as far as the rear seals to know if they are bad? And how difficult to replace for a somewaht DIY'er (IE:able to do a tune - up , front discs etc).

I am in the rust belt, what are and how do I check the bellcranks?

Thanks guys!

kepico

Well I ended up taking it to my garage and they diagnosed the master cylinder, charged $400 to do it. It is better (it does seem to "grab" better) but I am still not quite pleased with the brakes, now the fronts will pulsate (I know warped rotors) big time. Is this the limitations of the factory braking system that everybody seems to mention?