1998 2.7 l starting issues
03-29-2012, 02:25 PM
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1998 2.7 l starting issues
1998 Tacomna 2.7l The truck can sit for 1 2 3 or more days and always starts right up no problems. About every 3 or 4 weeks I start in the morning and go somewhere shut truck off and go back to start it in 30 or 40 mins and it will not start just turns over. It will eventually start after 4 or 5 trys but acts like it is flooded. It will then run ok and maybe go another 3 4 weeks then it may do it again. What should I check first I don't want to just start replacing parts. Thanks
03-30-2012, 09:11 AM
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1998 Tacomna 2.7l The truck can sit for 1 2 3 or more days and always starts right up no problems. About every 3 or 4 weeks I start in the morning and go somewhere shut truck off and go back to start it in 30 or 40 mins and it will not start just turns over. It will eventually start after 4 or 5 trys but acts like it is flooded. It will then run ok and maybe go another 3 4 weeks then it may do it again. What should I check first I don't want to just start replacing parts. Thanks
03-30-2012, 07:44 PM
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No black smoke when it finally starts. We finally got it to not start today and we checked it with my friends tech2 and didnt have any codes or show any other problems. I guess it is going to take a while to figure it out.
04-07-2012, 01:42 PM
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i got the same problem with my 98 tacoma 2.7L i changed the coolant temp sensor and it helped it a bit but it still does it every other day or so.
When it does start after it sat there for a 5-15 min it will back fire a few times and idle out to normal.
I got check engine light showing lean conditions but it turns off after a few days then comes back after a few more days.
Where is the VSV and what does it do. I tried googleing it but it gets me a vaccum solenoid valve not too sure if thats what everyone is talking about.
When it does start after it sat there for a 5-15 min it will back fire a few times and idle out to normal.
I got check engine light showing lean conditions but it turns off after a few days then comes back after a few more days.
Where is the VSV and what does it do. I tried googleing it but it gets me a vaccum solenoid valve not too sure if thats what everyone is talking about.
04-16-2012, 05:17 PM
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update on what i tried:
went to the junkyard got myself an extra VSV as well as 2 circuit opening relays (these are parts you can just toss in your tool box and they wont notice)
I tried 1 of the COR same issue wouldnt start after it sat for ~10min
put starting fluid in to start it tried the 2nd COR drove for 15min then let it sit for ~10min no luck stilll wouldnt start.
I put the original COR back and tried the VSV and again drove for a while then let it sit for ~10min still nothing.
Ill keep on trying new things whenever i get a chance since the truck runs amazing, i got engine light on with lean code but after driving it like that for a few months the spark plugs come out clean without the white color plugs when you got a lean condition.
One thing i noticed is if i take the pressure regulator off and give it a quick crank then reinstall the pressure regulator it will turn on without a problem.
I might look into that next.
went to the junkyard got myself an extra VSV as well as 2 circuit opening relays (these are parts you can just toss in your tool box and they wont notice)
I tried 1 of the COR same issue wouldnt start after it sat for ~10min
put starting fluid in to start it tried the 2nd COR drove for 15min then let it sit for ~10min no luck stilll wouldnt start.
I put the original COR back and tried the VSV and again drove for a while then let it sit for ~10min still nothing.
Ill keep on trying new things whenever i get a chance since the truck runs amazing, i got engine light on with lean code but after driving it like that for a few months the spark plugs come out clean without the white color plugs when you got a lean condition.
One thing i noticed is if i take the pressure regulator off and give it a quick crank then reinstall the pressure regulator it will turn on without a problem.
I might look into that next.
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04-16-2012, 07:15 PM
#8
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update on what i tried:
went to the junkyard got myself an extra VSV as well as 2 circuit opening relays (these are parts you can just toss in your tool box and they wont notice)
I tried 1 of the COR same issue wouldnt start after it sat for ~10min
put starting fluid in to start it tried the 2nd COR drove for 15min then let it sit for ~10min no luck stilll wouldnt start.
I put the original COR back and tried the VSV and again drove for a while then let it sit for ~10min still nothing.
Ill keep on trying new things whenever i get a chance since the truck runs amazing, i got engine light on with lean code but after driving it like that for a few months the spark plugs come out clean without the white color plugs when you got a lean condition.
One thing i noticed is if i take the pressure regulator off and give it a quick crank then reinstall the pressure regulator it will turn on without a problem.
I might look into that next.
went to the junkyard got myself an extra VSV as well as 2 circuit opening relays (these are parts you can just toss in your tool box and they wont notice)
I tried 1 of the COR same issue wouldnt start after it sat for ~10min
put starting fluid in to start it tried the 2nd COR drove for 15min then let it sit for ~10min no luck stilll wouldnt start.
I put the original COR back and tried the VSV and again drove for a while then let it sit for ~10min still nothing.
Ill keep on trying new things whenever i get a chance since the truck runs amazing, i got engine light on with lean code but after driving it like that for a few months the spark plugs come out clean without the white color plugs when you got a lean condition.
One thing i noticed is if i take the pressure regulator off and give it a quick crank then reinstall the pressure regulator it will turn on without a problem.
I might look into that next.
04-18-2012, 04:07 PM
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now that you mention that your right i took 3, hmm next time i go i might just put them back...ill be going to the junkyard again because i needed a new brake cable but didnt take enough tools to take that off last weekend but ill take the COR's back and just keep 1 as a back up.
Wasnt very considerate of others by doing this.
Wasnt very considerate of others by doing this.
04-20-2012, 05:49 AM
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Jumper Fp and +b, turn key to on, and crack a fitting/loosen the return line on the regulator. Keep a rag handy. You can see if it runs better with the vacuum line feeding the regulator crimped off, which will increase pressure. Lean code generally means too much air or not enough fuel, so check for vacuum leaks like always with this engine.
04-20-2012, 08:51 AM
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Jumper Fp and +b, turn key to on, and crack a fitting/loosen the return line on the regulator. Keep a rag handy. You can see if it runs better with the vacuum line feeding the regulator crimped off, which will increase pressure. Lean code generally means too much air or not enough fuel, so check for vacuum leaks like always with this engine.
04-20-2012, 06:44 PM
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Oh wait, '98 OBD2? I don't know if you have a +B and FP jumper. You'd have to check the FSM on TTORA for that info. basically you just want to bypass the circuit opening relay to make the fuel pump run, without having the engine running (spark and open fuel line = trouble) however it's done on that engine.
04-25-2012, 04:48 PM
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yeah i dont got that on my truck.
Update: So i checked the fuel pressure regulator and all seems fine i had fuel in the regulator but what i did notice is that once i removed the regulator i had a little bit of air come out of the line then fuel. It wasnt alot it was just a split second of air/gases then fuel. This might be why it wont start unless i shoot a tiny bit of ether in the throttle body.
Any idea what might be causing that air to get in the fuel rail?
Thank you for your help i really do appreciate it. I took a long time to answer since i had to work a few 12-14hr days the last week was just too tired to work on the truck but i did find out that im getting 19-23 mpg on it
Update: So i checked the fuel pressure regulator and all seems fine i had fuel in the regulator but what i did notice is that once i removed the regulator i had a little bit of air come out of the line then fuel. It wasnt alot it was just a split second of air/gases then fuel. This might be why it wont start unless i shoot a tiny bit of ether in the throttle body.
Any idea what might be causing that air to get in the fuel rail?
Thank you for your help i really do appreciate it. I took a long time to answer since i had to work a few 12-14hr days the last week was just too tired to work on the truck but i did find out that im getting 19-23 mpg on it
04-25-2012, 05:41 PM
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Well, that sounds like vapor lock, which is what that VSV I first mentioned is supposed to prevent. Sure you got the right one? There are usually several VSVs under the hood. you can check it with a length of hose and battery cable jumper wires, don't need to swap it out to check.
If it is vapor lock, and the VSV is working, and plugging the regulator vacuum line I mentioned doesn't help, then your fuel pressure is probably too low, or lines are getting too hot somewhere. Sounds like a pressure check is in order, but aside from that I can't think of another cause.
If it is vapor lock, and the VSV is working, and plugging the regulator vacuum line I mentioned doesn't help, then your fuel pressure is probably too low, or lines are getting too hot somewhere. Sounds like a pressure check is in order, but aside from that I can't think of another cause.
04-27-2012, 12:00 PM
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i did notice a few VSVs and the one i swapped had a cracked connecter which is why i swapped it out hopeing it was the problem. The VSV i swapped was right next to the charcoal canister it was the larger one, i did see a smaller one that went to the fuel pressure sensor and there is one more in between the intake manifold that is the same size.
Ill take a picture of a vaccum hose that goes down and into the frame but doesnt connect to anything as well as a picture of the VSV i changed. I also changed the PCV valve which had a bad one before and now my p0171 code went away but still got the starting problem.
Ill take a picture of a vaccum hose that goes down and into the frame but doesnt connect to anything as well as a picture of the VSV i changed. I also changed the PCV valve which had a bad one before and now my p0171 code went away but still got the starting problem.
04-27-2012, 03:37 PM
#17
On the 98 3RZ I swapped into my truck, the fuel pressure reg vacuum line goes to the squared canister under the intake pipe. Above the exhaust manifold. I presumed it was a vacuum reservoir. I will have to research and find out about any VSV for fuel pressure. Because nothing else is plumbed to that tank, and the regulator only has the one vacuum line, which as stated prior, goes to the tank under the air intake.
04-27-2012, 05:56 PM
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http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...vfpsv/comp.pdf
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...vfpsv/insp.pdf
This is your FSM link. Very quick and easy test. I have never worked on a 3rzfe, so all I can tell you is that the VSV could cause your symptoms, but I'm sure there are other loads of other potential causes also. The FSM has a full troubleshoot section for every possible issue there is.
Guys have eliminated FPU VSV entirely on other engines without issue, which would suggest there's at least something else going on, unless the 3rz is unusually prone to vapor lock. Also IIRC, all that VSV does is open the vacuum line to ambient air pressure, so if you disconnect the line from pressure regulator, and plug off the end going to the manifold to eliminate a leak, I believe you can essentially rule out the VSV without even testing it. You will idle high and probably lose mileage though.
If you familiarize yourself with the FSM and http://www.autoshop101.com/ there will be very little on your truck you won't be able to quickly diagnose and repair. Good luck, and don't forget to update to help future searchers when you solve it.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...vfpsv/insp.pdf
This is your FSM link. Very quick and easy test. I have never worked on a 3rzfe, so all I can tell you is that the VSV could cause your symptoms, but I'm sure there are other loads of other potential causes also. The FSM has a full troubleshoot section for every possible issue there is.
Guys have eliminated FPU VSV entirely on other engines without issue, which would suggest there's at least something else going on, unless the 3rz is unusually prone to vapor lock. Also IIRC, all that VSV does is open the vacuum line to ambient air pressure, so if you disconnect the line from pressure regulator, and plug off the end going to the manifold to eliminate a leak, I believe you can essentially rule out the VSV without even testing it. You will idle high and probably lose mileage though.
If you familiarize yourself with the FSM and http://www.autoshop101.com/ there will be very little on your truck you won't be able to quickly diagnose and repair. Good luck, and don't forget to update to help future searchers when you solve it.
Last edited by jbtvt; 04-27-2012 at 05:58 PM.
04-29-2012, 07:12 AM
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http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...vfpsv/comp.pdf
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...vfpsv/insp.pdf
This is your FSM link. Very quick and easy test. I have never worked on a 3rzfe, so all I can tell you is that the VSV could cause your symptoms, but I'm sure there are other loads of other potential causes also. The FSM has a full troubleshoot section for every possible issue there is.
Guys have eliminated FPU VSV entirely on other engines without issue, which would suggest there's at least something else going on, unless the 3rz is unusually prone to vapor lock. Also IIRC, all that VSV does is open the vacuum line to ambient air pressure, so if you disconnect the line from pressure regulator, and plug off the end going to the manifold to eliminate a leak, I believe you can essentially rule out the VSV without even testing it. You will idle high and probably lose mileage though.
If you familiarize yourself with the FSM and http://www.autoshop101.com/ there will be very little on your truck you won't be able to quickly diagnose and repair. Good luck, and don't forget to update to help future searchers when you solve it.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...vfpsv/insp.pdf
This is your FSM link. Very quick and easy test. I have never worked on a 3rzfe, so all I can tell you is that the VSV could cause your symptoms, but I'm sure there are other loads of other potential causes also. The FSM has a full troubleshoot section for every possible issue there is.
Guys have eliminated FPU VSV entirely on other engines without issue, which would suggest there's at least something else going on, unless the 3rz is unusually prone to vapor lock. Also IIRC, all that VSV does is open the vacuum line to ambient air pressure, so if you disconnect the line from pressure regulator, and plug off the end going to the manifold to eliminate a leak, I believe you can essentially rule out the VSV without even testing it. You will idle high and probably lose mileage though.
If you familiarize yourself with the FSM and http://www.autoshop101.com/ there will be very little on your truck you won't be able to quickly diagnose and repair. Good luck, and don't forget to update to help future searchers when you solve it.
04-29-2012, 07:30 AM
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http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...vfpsv/comp.pdf
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...vfpsv/insp.pdf
This is your FSM link. Very quick and easy test. I have never worked on a 3rzfe, so all I can tell you is that the VSV could cause your symptoms, but I'm sure there are other loads of other potential causes also. The FSM has a full troubleshoot section for every possible issue there is.
Guys have eliminated FPU VSV entirely on other engines without issue, which would suggest there's at least something else going on, unless the 3rz is unusually prone to vapor lock. Also IIRC, all that VSV does is open the vacuum line to ambient air pressure, so if you disconnect the line from pressure regulator, and plug off the end going to the manifold to eliminate a leak, I believe you can essentially rule out the VSV without even testing it. You will idle high and probably lose mileage though.
If you familiarize yourself with the FSM and http://www.autoshop101.com/ there will be very little on your truck you won't be able to quickly diagnose and repair. Good luck, and don't forget to update to help future searchers when you solve it.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...vfpsv/insp.pdf
This is your FSM link. Very quick and easy test. I have never worked on a 3rzfe, so all I can tell you is that the VSV could cause your symptoms, but I'm sure there are other loads of other potential causes also. The FSM has a full troubleshoot section for every possible issue there is.
Guys have eliminated FPU VSV entirely on other engines without issue, which would suggest there's at least something else going on, unless the 3rz is unusually prone to vapor lock. Also IIRC, all that VSV does is open the vacuum line to ambient air pressure, so if you disconnect the line from pressure regulator, and plug off the end going to the manifold to eliminate a leak, I believe you can essentially rule out the VSV without even testing it. You will idle high and probably lose mileage though.
If you familiarize yourself with the FSM and http://www.autoshop101.com/ there will be very little on your truck you won't be able to quickly diagnose and repair. Good luck, and don't forget to update to help future searchers when you solve it.
heres the pics of the VSV i changed and the one i tested as well as a pic of a vaccum hose that goes to the frame but doesnt connect to anything.
white is the one i checked red is the one i changed for a crack on the plug.
this is the hose i have no idea where it goes since it goes down to the frame and doesnt plug to anything.
