Sabony

I have a 2004 V8 4runner and she won't start. When I turn the key all I get is a clicking sound, no engine turn-over whatsoever. I have two batteries and I don't think either or both are dead. I have tried turning them both on with no luck and even run jumper cables across them too just in case. I have checked all the wires that I know to check. I am guessing that the starter is bad. I don't see a starter relay or fuse nor do I know where exactly the starter is, but when I pull the ignition relay, it gives me the same clicking sound with it removed. The only other known problem on my truck was a slight oil leak coming from where the oil filter used to go, but this is fixed now.

Does anyone have any ideas or am I to call a tow truck and get it to the mechanic?

Sabony

one other thing, I drove the truck only once yesterday. I went to the grocery store and back with no problems or warnings. It was raining all day and all night long.

02SE

I would bet that there is something wrong with the installation, maybe a short somewhere, which is draining both batteries.

I seriously doubt you have a bad starter. Good luck.

lctmjw

Make sure the batteries have a good charge. If you hear clicking, then the solenoid is working. Are you sure that you didn't leave anything on overnight? If you have one, test the battery with a voltmeter. If you don't have one, they're cheap and handy to have around, if you're a do-it-yourselfer. I would definetely make sure the batteries are not the problem before taking another step. And check your grounds, battery and starter. Good luck!

*edit*

There's really only a few things that could be wrong with a truck as new as yours. If the battery holds a good charge (over 12 volts) and the terminals are nice and snug, you may have a blown fusible link or bad starter realy, or neutral start switch. But again, this all seems unlikely for a new truck, so I'm willing to bet that the batteries are dead due to a dome light being inadvertantly left on all night, or the truck isn't in park or something goofy like that. Again, good luck!

Sabony

It does seem as though the red top is close to dead, so I did probably leave something on, although I have yet to find it, but the yellow top still has a good charge and won't even make the engine turn-over. This is my problem. I will try and get a jump from my neighbors when they get home tonight and hopefully that will at least get the red top charged, but I need to find out why the yellow top won't start the engine, or at least get it to turn-over. Thanks for the help so far.

Sabony

Well, I tried to jump it off another car, no luck. I have tried putting my neighbor's yellow top in my car, but that did not work either, just this incessant clicking. Does anyone know where the relay for the starter is? Does anyone know where the starter itself is? I am learning as I go here. Thanks.
-Jeff

User 051420

How are your two batteries wired up? Maybe it has something to do with whatever isolator/switching device you have?

bulldog-yota

I would reommend to disconnect the dual setup completely and take it back to stock. Make sure you have enough charge in the battery and no CEL.

The problem with the 4th Gens are that they do not engage the solenoid directly from the ignition key as per normal. It goes through a secondary circuit that intelligently decides when the engine fired up and disengages the starter, after you have looked at the above I would recommend you look at that secondary circuit. I'll see if I can find more info tomorrow.

Good Times

i believe you might have your dual batt setup incorrectly (if you just did it and it's suddenly not working). the fact that your red top (starting battery) is dead sounds like some kind of wiring problem due to a short or something.

try going back to stock by removing the dual batt setup and then check your starting relay to take that out of the equation. if the problem still exists at that point, then atleast you've eliminated some of the uncertainties.

good luck

Sabony

I have been running this dual battery system for over a month now with no problems and no batt. light on. It is based off a hellroaring 95150B.

Is the starter relay the one that says IG under the hood? If so, it makes the same clicking sound with it removed. The sound seems to be coming from under the hood, on the driver's side. I don't know what else to do other than take it in.

Sabony

Well, now I have returned everything to stock (as best I can), so at least the mechanic won't give me too much of a lecture about running a weird setup. The starting battery is completely dead now, and without the backup battery providing juice, all lights are off.
At least the clicking sound has gone away!

bulldog-yota

Well get a battery charger and charge the battery to full capacity. See if it still the same.

I'll see if I can get more info on the starter circuits.

Sabony

I have the battery charged up until it is now showing blue, not white on the self-indicator, but still the clicking. It is definitely not the battery, probably the relay or the starter. Thanks for your help.

Good Times

i'm wondering if you might be able to take it into the dealer and play dumb questioning what's wrong w/ your 4runner. heck they might even fix it for free for ya

it's worth a shot since you're back to stock (pretty much). since if it is the starter, it's pita to get to btw. if it's just a relay or something, well that's abit easier of course.

keep us posted on the status.

good luck

bulldog-yota

SO the starter is under the intake manifold. That is a real pain, nop wonder I couldn't see it. Good thing I have the repair manual. I second go see the dealer and play stupid.

I'll look into the circuits a bit.

bulldog-yota

stupid question, is the 4R in park? Maybe cycle you gearshift??

bulldog-yota

Go here you can download the repair manual for the 4R.
http://techinfo.toyota.com/

You want to go to section 5 page 207. Troubleshooting for engine not cranking. It boils down to the ECM, STArter relay or the transmission park/neutral switch. It shows where you can check what, but be warned it looks like a maze.

Sabony

So I got an appointment with the dealer this morning. I am hoping that this is nothing that I did, so it will be covered by warranty, but I highly doubt it. This should not have broken down so soon without something being done on my part. Thanks very much for the help everyone.

By the way, I tried to cycle the gearshift twice yesterday and I am not good enough to figure out the ignition cycle of my truck. At least I gave it a good try myself first.

I don't think the playing dumb thing will work either, I didn't take everything out that I put in (that would take a day at least) and even if I did, I would still get a lot of questions about all the drill holes under the hood.

bulldog-yota

Well, good luck. My guess would be that it is one of the 3 things I mentioned, the ECM, gearbox switch or STA relay. FOr giggles I put my 4R in gear and tried to start it. It did exactly what yours does. You hear a relay sound and thats it, not action. SO I hope it is just the gearbox switch or a cable that came loose. SOmetime it is something simple. ALso search for another thread by Ahriman on warranty claims with his rear diff and ARB installation. It basically comes down to the fact that they must proof that whatever you did broke the 4R. I think you should be fine, be nice with the service writer and if they want to charge you dont go down without a fight.

Sabony

Well, I have figured out what the problem is, along with the tow truck guy. First, let me say that this guy was very impressive, he knew exactly what was going on before I had barely explained anything to him.

First, the starter relay was the main culprit. This was easily solved once the tow truck guy told me where it was(how did he just know this off the top of his head?) and then gave me a ride to the dealer (and back) where another one was purchased.

Second, I have a bad relay that was not sending power to the starter from the second battery like it was supposed to so that was why my second battery was not powering the interior accessories when the first one died.

Third, my jumper cables were not strong enough (14 guage, leftover from high school) to carry enough boost if the battery is completely dead even if my starter relay was fine. I have since purchased a set of 2 guage cables in case this happens again.

Now I don't know why the starter relay kicked out on me. I have taken the afternoon, so far, making sure that every last wire in my setup has a good connection and is completely covered in electrical tape. I have a feeling that water just got in somewhere when it was raining Friday and helped to short something out. I think that I have now elimintated that from happening again. I think that just about covers my problems for now.

I have to hand it to that tow guy, he really knew his stuff and potentially saved me a lot of money and he only cost $40 for time and effort.