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01 4runner heater core change now the radio and clock won't turn off

Old 12-18-2016, 04:15 PM
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01 4runner heater core change now the radio and clock won't turn off

I hope some one will be able to help. I have looked at so many threads I can't see straight anymore.
Problem: 01 4runner 3.4l SR5 4WD heater core change. I installed the new one and put everything back together and now the radio nor the clock will not turn off. The vehicle is in park, the switch moves with no binding felt and the vehicle starts and the engine shuts down but the radio or the clock will shut off. As soon as I connect the negative terminal the radio comes on and does not go off until I disconnect the negative terminal. I have had the vehicle for 3 days now and the previous owner has replaced the ignition I assume because It has a different key. Help please. Thank you.

Dave
Old 12-18-2016, 11:25 PM
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Red face

Now are you talking the lights on the radio and clock ??

The radio powers up and plays and all the features work??

Is this still the factory radio or after market ??

About the only things it might be is parts of an alarm caused the radio and clock to light up.

The other thing is pinched wires now shorted .

The strange thing is the radio and the clock are on two different circuits .
Old 12-19-2016, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
The strange thing is the radio and the clock are on two different circuits .
No, the key on power for the radio and the dial illumination for the clock both are on the ACC circuit. Are you completely unable to turn the radio off or are you just complaining about the inconveniece that it doesn't go off when you turn the key?

I'm going to assume it's the latter. First thing to do is pull the ACC fuse with the key off and see if that kills the radio and clock illumination. If it does, you pretty much have to have a defective key switch. To confirm this, pull the key switch and test the blue-red wire on Pin 3 for 12V+ with the key off and ACC fuse removed. If it shows voltage, then bad key switch or the slight possibility of a short to the blue-red wire in the short run between key and fuse box. If they stay on with ACC fuse removed, then there is a short somewhere in the ACC circuit. But I'm thinking key switch. The ACC switch on the key is separate from all the other key circuits. Since it is a new ignition, they may have crossed wires somehow at the key switch--another thing to look for. It is also possible that the mechanical part of the key lock is not properly engaging the electric switch part--enough that the ACC switch does not trip. Anyway, do the test I suggested, and then look at the switch if the ACC fuse makes those things go off.

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/012ps.pdf

If it turns out the key is good, I can help you isolate where the short is. Gonna be a pain.

Last edited by TheDurk; 12-19-2016 at 06:09 AM.
Old 12-19-2016, 07:22 AM
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Thanks for the replies

It is an aftermarket radio.

No alarm installed (dont know if one ever was)

The clock on the dash isstaying on as well as the radio.

The radio and clock will not turn off until I remove the negative terminal.

No other ACC things work with the key out; wondows, blower. Just the radio and dash clock.
Old 12-19-2016, 07:32 AM
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Does this vehicle have RAP (retained accessory power)? maybe the RAP module has a glitch or stuck contacts. Follow what TheDurk said above checking the ACC fuse and ignition switch first.
Old 12-19-2016, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by uh1medic
It is an aftermarket radio.

No alarm installed (dont know if one ever was)

The clock on the dash isstaying on as well as the radio.

The radio and clock will not turn off until I remove the negative terminal.

No other ACC things work with the key out; wondows, blower. Just the radio and dash clock.
Did you do the test I asked for with the fuse or decided you know better? The windows depend on the ECU-IG fuse for key on power and the blower depends on ECU-B fuse. ACC fuse serves Car audio system, power antenna, clock, power rear view mirror control, cigarette lighter, seat belt pre-
tensioners, electronically controlled automatic transmission system, power outlets, theft deterrent system. This will take a lot longer if you don't do what I ask.

I'm still not clear on the radio. Is there no power off button or there is and it really doesn't work? Sometimes it takes a long press for them to turn off.

Last edited by TheDurk; 12-19-2016 at 12:27 PM.
Old 12-19-2016, 02:36 PM
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Did you ever notice this issue before you replaced the heater core? I would be looking at the the key switch as the issue if you hadn't mentioned it only doing it after you had the dash apart. Regardless, do the tests TheDurk recommended and let us know what you find. I have a complete dash harness hanging on my wall at the moment. Let me know if you need me to trace a wire for you.
Old 12-21-2016, 05:15 PM
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So the issue was bugging me about the fact that I had removed the entire dash and a radio that is working fine the day before now has constant power to both BATT and ACC on the harness. Well, after checking the volts at the blue-red wire on pin 3 (I think), I looked at the wiring harness to the stereo again. Well, there it was just lying there up against the metal support for the dash, the batt wire and acc wire had been pinched and were smushed up against the metal. Removed the wires from the metal, ACC wire went cold with key off. turned key on, ACC wire went hot. But best of all, the radio now turns off when the ignition is turned off. No more disconnecting the negative wire everytime I stop for any period of time. Thanks for the assistance, really appreciated.
Old 12-21-2016, 05:16 PM
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Oh yeah, I forgot to say that I had fixed the bare spots on the wires.
Old 12-21-2016, 06:27 PM
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That's kind of what I figured you had going on. You'd have though that if they were pinched against the metal, they would have shorted and blown a fuse. I had something like that happen not long ago. Troubleshooting my 4WD electronics, I started with the 4WD button which tested fine but every time I put it back on the stick it would act crazy. Two days later I found that I had allowed the wires to get in the wrong place in their routing down the stick and that I had run my set screw between them in such a manner that i cut the insulation on both wires and they were making a connection through the screw.
Old 12-21-2016, 07:54 PM
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Congrats, you found one of those special places that look like it would be a good auxiliary ground but isn't connected to anything but plastic

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