'01 3.4L 5vz-fe Attaching Fan Pulley to Water Pump Flange--Electric Fan Install
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'01 3.4L 5vz-fe Attaching Fan Pulley to Water Pump Flange--Electric Fan Install
I just bought a Hayden electric fan to replace my perfectly good stock belt driven fan. The instructions say to "attach the pulley to the water pump flange....Failure to properly secure the pulley may result in ...personal injury or damage to the vehicle."
So what it's asking me to do is to disable the pulley by bolting it to the water pump flange? I don't understand what's this is asking me o do.
Do I have to do this step? I thought all I had to do was remove the stock fan and bolt in / wire up the new one. If I have to do it, then why? Is this even possible to do? I thought the components were all tied together with one or two main serpentine belts
So what it's asking me to do is to disable the pulley by bolting it to the water pump flange? I don't understand what's this is asking me o do.
Do I have to do this step? I thought all I had to do was remove the stock fan and bolt in / wire up the new one. If I have to do it, then why? Is this even possible to do? I thought the components were all tied together with one or two main serpentine belts
#2
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In some cases, removing the fan might also remove the pulley. The bolts that hold the fan on also hold the pulley onto the water pump.
This isn't the case on the 5VZFE since the fan isn't mounted on the water pump, but I'm guessing the instructions are generic.
In any case, the pulley needs to remain in place and be firmly bolted to whatever holds it when the fan is also attached. Even though in this case the pulley won't be doing anything, it still needs to act as an idler.
This isn't the case on the 5VZFE since the fan isn't mounted on the water pump, but I'm guessing the instructions are generic.
In any case, the pulley needs to remain in place and be firmly bolted to whatever holds it when the fan is also attached. Even though in this case the pulley won't be doing anything, it still needs to act as an idler.
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Thank you very much.
The Hayden electric fan cooler which I bought outputs around 1150 cfm. What does the stock fan put out? Is 1150 or so enough? My 3.4L is supercharged and I tow regularly.
Also am I correct to say that because the fans are 'after' the radiator that they PULL air through the radiator to cool it? If so, that means i will have to reverse the fan wires and fan blades to convert it into a puller, correct?
The Hayden electric fan cooler which I bought outputs around 1150 cfm. What does the stock fan put out? Is 1150 or so enough? My 3.4L is supercharged and I tow regularly.
Also am I correct to say that because the fans are 'after' the radiator that they PULL air through the radiator to cool it? If so, that means i will have to reverse the fan wires and fan blades to convert it into a puller, correct?
#4
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Yes. Pusher fans sit in front of the radiator, puller fans sit inside the engine compartment. You'd def. want to have this wired to pull air through the radiator and into the engine compartment, assisting the natural flow of air as the car drives around.
I have no clue what the stock mechanical fan can pull. At highway speeds, the air entering the grill does the vast majority of the work, part of the efficiency of an e-fan is that the fan is off for most of the time you're driving, just coming on when it's either really hot or when the car is stopped, or moving really slowly.
I've added e-fans (and taken off the stock mechanical fans) on two other cars I have. The fan practically never runs in normal use, the switch point is set a little higher than the thermostat regulates at so it doesn't come on if the car moving around is doing a sufficient job.
I guess one other consideration would be the A/C. It's not an issue on my 60's car with the e-fan, but on the 90's car (with R134a A/C) it needs to be wired to come on with the A/C compressor, otherwise the A/C won't work properly if the car is moving slowly. The radiator/engine temp might not be high enough to trigger the fan, but the condensor might be overheated.
I have no clue what the stock mechanical fan can pull. At highway speeds, the air entering the grill does the vast majority of the work, part of the efficiency of an e-fan is that the fan is off for most of the time you're driving, just coming on when it's either really hot or when the car is stopped, or moving really slowly.
I've added e-fans (and taken off the stock mechanical fans) on two other cars I have. The fan practically never runs in normal use, the switch point is set a little higher than the thermostat regulates at so it doesn't come on if the car moving around is doing a sufficient job.
I guess one other consideration would be the A/C. It's not an issue on my 60's car with the e-fan, but on the 90's car (with R134a A/C) it needs to be wired to come on with the A/C compressor, otherwise the A/C won't work properly if the car is moving slowly. The radiator/engine temp might not be high enough to trigger the fan, but the condensor might be overheated.
#5
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I guess one other consideration would be the A/C. It's not an issue on my 60's car with the e-fan, but on the 90's car (with R134a A/C) it needs to be wired to come on with the A/C compressor, otherwise the A/C won't work properly if the car is moving slowly. The radiator/engine temp might not be high enough to trigger the fan, but the condensor might be overheated.
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