'01 - '02 brake bleeding question/concern
02-20-2007, 06:26 PM
#1
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'01 - '02 brake bleeding question/concern
I spent the better part of today replacing the failed driver's side rear axle seal and as well as the shoes and pads. Apart from the miserable cold weather, everything went fairly smooth. Until I decided to bleed my brakes.
Since I've never opened the brake system since purchasing the truck new in '01, I wanted to flush everything with new fluid. Naturally I had to bleed the left rear brake as a result of the seal replacement. With a friend on hand to do the old-school brake pedal pump n' hold, I set to work on the rears. During the first bleed screw opening, the fluid flowed just like it should. When I attempted to repeat, hardly any fluid came out and an odd hissing sound came from under the truck. The fronts bled perfectly fine and I was able to run an entire quart of new fluid through the system.
I'm not sure I'm satisfied with the end result, as I'm worried that the brake system needs a number of goofy steps to be bled correctly. Please keep in mind that my truck is an '01 - so the question pertains to '01 & '02 trucks with TRAC/ & VSC.
I thumbed through the shop manual but found my eyes glazing over with all of the techno-speak regarding the use of a brake tester, etc. etc. The truck does stop fine and should improve when I drive it properly tomorrow. I'll need to go back and re-adjust the drums anyway, but I'd like to find out if there is a specific sequence with respect to the ABS pump, etc. I also cycled the ABS pump (ignition on) during the bleed process, but did not feel like this did anything of worth.
Andreas
Since I've never opened the brake system since purchasing the truck new in '01, I wanted to flush everything with new fluid. Naturally I had to bleed the left rear brake as a result of the seal replacement. With a friend on hand to do the old-school brake pedal pump n' hold, I set to work on the rears. During the first bleed screw opening, the fluid flowed just like it should. When I attempted to repeat, hardly any fluid came out and an odd hissing sound came from under the truck. The fronts bled perfectly fine and I was able to run an entire quart of new fluid through the system.
I'm not sure I'm satisfied with the end result, as I'm worried that the brake system needs a number of goofy steps to be bled correctly. Please keep in mind that my truck is an '01 - so the question pertains to '01 & '02 trucks with TRAC/ & VSC.
I thumbed through the shop manual but found my eyes glazing over with all of the techno-speak regarding the use of a brake tester, etc. etc. The truck does stop fine and should improve when I drive it properly tomorrow. I'll need to go back and re-adjust the drums anyway, but I'd like to find out if there is a specific sequence with respect to the ABS pump, etc. I also cycled the ABS pump (ignition on) during the bleed process, but did not feel like this did anything of worth.
Andreas
02-21-2007, 08:41 AM
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In general, I thought the 'buddy method' of brake bleeding was no longer recommended due to concerns that it over pressurizes the master cylinder. A few months back, I used a Motive Bleeder to flush all the brake fluid, and didn't have any problems. In all my reading/research, I don't recall anything different/specific that was needed for an '01 as opposed to an older model.
Last edited by hillbilly; 02-21-2007 at 10:13 AM.
02-21-2007, 08:49 AM
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Scott,
I have a Motive Black Label that I use for my 993 (longer tubing & machined aluminum thread-on adaptor. What adaptor did you use?
Motive did not have an adaptor specific to the larger reservoir of the '01 - '02 4Runners the last time I checked with them. I too am concerned about harming something and would love to redo the flush with my Motive.
Andreas
I have a Motive Black Label that I use for my 993 (longer tubing & machined aluminum thread-on adaptor. What adaptor did you use?
Motive did not have an adaptor specific to the larger reservoir of the '01 - '02 4Runners the last time I checked with them. I too am concerned about harming something and would love to redo the flush with my Motive.
Andreas
02-21-2007, 10:08 AM
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Must be your week to quit sniffing glue... 
...or maybe brake fluid.
'01-'02 4Runner Motive Power Bleeder 1101 Mod
...or maybe brake fluid.'01-'02 4Runner Motive Power Bleeder 1101 Mod
Last edited by hillbilly; 02-21-2007 at 10:40 AM.
02-22-2007, 09:28 AM
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Andreas,
The '01 and '02 4R braking system is a different beast indeed. To bleed the rears successfully using the pedal method, the key must be left in the 'ON' position so that your accumulator always contains brake fluid under pressure. That's the only way your rears will get any pressure to them with the truck not running.
That being said, if you pressurize the fluid reservoir (with the motive bleeder, or with this tool that I made.), you will be able to flush fluid through all four bleeder screws.
It's not concerns of overpressurizing the MC, it's because if you're not careful about putting a block of wood or something behind the brake pedal, when you press and hold the pedal using the buddy system, and open the bleeder screw, the pedal will go right down to the floor. This causes the piston seals in the MC to move through areas that they normally don't reach. If there is any corrosion or pitting in those areas, it can damage the piston seals.
The '01 and '02 4R braking system is a different beast indeed. To bleed the rears successfully using the pedal method, the key must be left in the 'ON' position so that your accumulator always contains brake fluid under pressure. That's the only way your rears will get any pressure to them with the truck not running.
That being said, if you pressurize the fluid reservoir (with the motive bleeder, or with this tool that I made.), you will be able to flush fluid through all four bleeder screws.
It's not concerns of overpressurizing the MC, it's because if you're not careful about putting a block of wood or something behind the brake pedal, when you press and hold the pedal using the buddy system, and open the bleeder screw, the pedal will go right down to the floor. This causes the piston seals in the MC to move through areas that they normally don't reach. If there is any corrosion or pitting in those areas, it can damage the piston seals.
Last edited by GSGALLANT; 02-22-2007 at 09:32 AM.
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02-22-2007, 11:16 AM
#8
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Thank you for your thoughts on this. Harming the MC seals worries me as well. I ordered the Motive universal adaptor and will either modify in the same way as Scott (hillbilly) did, or build an adaptor such as the one you made.
Andreas
Andreas
02-22-2007, 12:02 PM
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It's probably quite easy to connect my adapter to the tubing coming from the motive bleeder. My adapter provides a perfect seal every time with no fumbling with chains and J-hooks. You might get the best of both worlds if you combine the two to make your system, since you already own the motive bleeder.
06-27-2007, 05:21 PM
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Just found this thread while looking for axle seals. I have a 2001 and did the combination. Last fall I bought the Motive before I discovered it didn;t exactly fit the 2001. I then made the run to Home Depot and bought the parts to fit the resorvoir. I filled the resorvoir and used the Motive for pressure. Worked like a charm
01-12-2008, 09:05 AM
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Just finished bleeding my brakes with a Motive.
Tips here on Yotatech were great. Here's my one I didn't see. The directions on the Motive say to pressurize to 10psi with no fluid in the container and check for leaks. If you only test to 10psi, do not exceed 10psi when you actually are using fluid or you could have a leak. Pressure bleed only up to the test psi.
Maybe that's an obvious one but not so obvious for me.
When I bleed again - say in 18 months - I'll test to 15 psi and bleed at 12psi.
Tips here on Yotatech were great. Here's my one I didn't see. The directions on the Motive say to pressurize to 10psi with no fluid in the container and check for leaks. If you only test to 10psi, do not exceed 10psi when you actually are using fluid or you could have a leak. Pressure bleed only up to the test psi.
Maybe that's an obvious one but not so obvious for me.
When I bleed again - say in 18 months - I'll test to 15 psi and bleed at 12psi.
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