r3dfish's 92 yota pickup 3.0L v6 extra cab
#1
r3dfish's 92 yota pickup 3.0L v6 extra cab
Hey guys,
I've got a 3.0L v6 extra cab pickup. In this thread I will document the build out. Here is my list of potential upgrades:
- 2 way car alarm with remote start
- power window conversion
- power door lock conversion
- stereo upgrades (mids/subs, bluetooth, etc)
- tube front bumper
- rock rails
- tube rear bumper
Here's how it looked when I bought it:
I've got a 3.0L v6 extra cab pickup. In this thread I will document the build out. Here is my list of potential upgrades:
- 2 way car alarm with remote start
- power window conversion
- power door lock conversion
- stereo upgrades (mids/subs, bluetooth, etc)
- tube front bumper
- rock rails
- tube rear bumper
Here's how it looked when I bought it:
#2
You had me at power door lock conversion.
I like manual everything else but power door locks are just one of those things I want. I find that I just dont lock my doors when I have to do t manually. But with tube doors on for most of the summer anyways I'm not really worried about it for now.
I like manual everything else but power door locks are just one of those things I want. I find that I just dont lock my doors when I have to do t manually. But with tube doors on for most of the summer anyways I'm not really worried about it for now.
#3
Power Windows and Power Locks
My truck came with manual windows, but one of the window regulators was broken, so I decided to swap in power window regulators. While I had the door ripped apart, I wired in some power door lock solenoids too.
I got the window regulators with the motors from rockauto.com for about $80 a piece.
Wiring the driver circuit for the motors takes 4 relays, one for each direction (up and down) on each window (drivers and passengers). I used two single pole double throw switches to flip each relay. Here is a picture of the relays to drive the windows wired up:
For the door locks I used 2 relays, one to lock both doors and one to unlock both doors. Here is the relay block with all six relays for driving power windows and power locks:
I had to cut away some metal inside the door and bolt on a mounting bracket to hold the door lock solenoids. I paid $40 for each one from a local stereo shop. Here it is mounted in the door:
And a closeup of how it drives the locking mechanism up and down:
And to control the door locks, I got a Python 5904P 2 way car alarm:
I got the window regulators with the motors from rockauto.com for about $80 a piece.
Wiring the driver circuit for the motors takes 4 relays, one for each direction (up and down) on each window (drivers and passengers). I used two single pole double throw switches to flip each relay. Here is a picture of the relays to drive the windows wired up:
For the door locks I used 2 relays, one to lock both doors and one to unlock both doors. Here is the relay block with all six relays for driving power windows and power locks:
I had to cut away some metal inside the door and bolt on a mounting bracket to hold the door lock solenoids. I paid $40 for each one from a local stereo shop. Here it is mounted in the door:
And a closeup of how it drives the locking mechanism up and down:
And to control the door locks, I got a Python 5904P 2 way car alarm:
#4
Started building out some tube rock rails. There will be 5 spuds on each side supporting the base rail, and a second tube with more spuds will be welded off that one.
Here are some before pictures of the frame
Started by grinding away the paint on the frame for the placement of the 5 plates on each side that the spuds will be welded to
Here are the front and rear spuds installed
And here is a shot of the base tube welded to the front and rear spuds
Here are some before pictures of the frame
Started by grinding away the paint on the frame for the placement of the 5 plates on each side that the spuds will be welded to
Here are the front and rear spuds installed
And here is a shot of the base tube welded to the front and rear spuds
#6
I did a tube bumper that can be bolted on, will probably redo the same design with some thicker tubes to match the rock rails.
Here is the base for the bumper
You can see it hugs the driving lights
Added some side supports
And a hoop for the radiator, as well as a hoop for the rigid light bar
Because the stock turn signals were in the original bumper that was removed, I added some 12v amber LED strips to the backs of the support tubes for turn signals
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#8
Registered User
Sick man. I wish I had the time to make some for my 92. Trucks clean man. If you're close to az lol I want that bumper!
Last edited by coloyota1023; 10-25-2015 at 10:03 AM.
#9
Later on I'll probably drill some holes into the tubes and wire brighter LEDs, but I feel better driving around now with working turn signals.
#10
Thanks man. Luckily, I happen to be located in phoenix. If you want one we can work something out, I'm already building two more for other people. Let me know.
#11
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Very nice Truck you have there. Every time I see a 3rd gen.....it makes me miss all the ones I used to own.
Nice job on the wiring for the Regs and Locks. I used to have PWR windows but got rid of them. Funny how some people want/like different things.
I like how you have the sliders hugging the body. Very nice and tight.
Lookin good.
Nice job on the wiring for the Regs and Locks. I used to have PWR windows but got rid of them. Funny how some people want/like different things.
I like how you have the sliders hugging the body. Very nice and tight.
Lookin good.
#13
Cutting off all the extra brackets
For the steering stops, I followed Wheelie Pete's bombproof steering stops guide:
and placed 15/16" nuts inside the stops and filled it up with welds. Then welded a plate onto the top and bottom of the steering stops
Now its ready for a top gusset
For the steering stops, I followed Wheelie Pete's bombproof steering stops guide:
and placed 15/16" nuts inside the stops and filled it up with welds. Then welded a plate onto the top and bottom of the steering stops
Now its ready for a top gusset
Last edited by r3dfish; 11-05-2015 at 05:55 AM.
#18
CB Radio Install
Using a midland 1001LWX, I installed it into the ash tray area, it fits nicely.
I used an 18 foot antenna cable and soldered the connector on after I had run the cable through to the antenna mount
I ran the cable under the carpet to the storage compartment under the rear seat, and looped up the extra cable there
I routed the cable out through the rubber plug in the back of the cab and snaked it between the cab and the bed through a hole I drilled in the back of the bed
And finally to the antenna mount that I drilled directly through the bed liner
Using a midland 1001LWX, I installed it into the ash tray area, it fits nicely.
I used an 18 foot antenna cable and soldered the connector on after I had run the cable through to the antenna mount
I ran the cable under the carpet to the storage compartment under the rear seat, and looped up the extra cable there
I routed the cable out through the rubber plug in the back of the cab and snaked it between the cab and the bed through a hole I drilled in the back of the bed
And finally to the antenna mount that I drilled directly through the bed liner