When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Picked up my neice's 1994 4runner with 195k on it.
Recent rebuild on the 3.turd so it actually runs decents, dog slow with the Auto.
I got it dirt cheap, low 3 digit numbers due to a failed bearing/CV on the right front wheel that lead to this
Totally froze on her and freaked her out. Her mom said come get it.
It is kind of dirty but should clean up nicely
Has the usual drivers side torn seat but other than that nothing sometime with a vacuum and carpet cleaner can't cure
Plan is to tear apart the right front and see what got fubar'ed.
It needs tires, an exhaust and the left rear passenger window won't roll down.
Long term plan is to turn it into a more family friendly trail runner, won't have the same capabilities as the Trekker but time will tell. Looking to build something I can take the grandkids out to enjoy the woods in and maybe the occasional 2-3 night weekend expedition.
It will get some front (with a winch) and rear bumpers, probably an extra gas tank, drawer unit/sleeping platform. Maybe something like an ARB fridge.
Definitely a locker, sliders.
Thinking 33x10.50's for tires.
Nice! I just bought a '95 4Runner about 3 weeks ago, it had those exact same floor mats in it when I got it.
That is funny..I have some better ones that will catch a little more stuff than the Harley matts
Originally Posted by habanero
More an overlander, eh? Love the color, looking forward to the occasional update.
I had a similar color taco a few years ago, kind of missed it.
Overlander was the word I was looking for, thanks Hab kind of out of the beat on the truck to death phase of life
Definitely gonna be kind of slow, hopefully have it on the road though in a couple of months.
My neice was driving it daily up until last week when the bearing issue popped up.
3.0 has a ton of power
Originally Posted by rattlewagon
Love a good 2nd gen build! The body on that truck look great for 195K
Thanks! Body is in excellent shape for it's age. When pulling the rear d/s to tow it home I was amazed at how clean it was underneath too.
The usual grease in a couple of spots from spinning u joints but overall in great shape.
Nice score, looks like a clean rig to start with, look forward to seeing some updates!
Thanks, yeppers pretty clean slate to start with.
Updates for the time being will be kind of sparadic. Gotta get the Trekker back together so I can get this hunkojunk into the garage to diagnose the right front wheel/bearing/cV issue.
Plus side is 50% off sale at pick N pull this weekend!
Originally Posted by muddpigg
Cool deal, should be a fun build. Might need to chuck that auto. Will be fun to watch.
Kind of mixed about the Auto, kind of want to keep it, becoming an old fart. I think it might hold for light wheeling.
Seeing if I can stuff a set of duals behind it. Adapter might be too much $$.
In negotiations with the accountant aka the wife.
Thing is kind of ripe for a 1UZ or 3.4 swap though. But will wait till the 3.0 starts to rear it's ugly side.
Great looking runner you have. I am always amazed at how well the 2nd gens interiors and exteriors hold up for their age. That is one of the lower mileage 2nd gens I have seen. Every one I see has more mileage then that around here. It is a tank on wheels. Never had a truck with automatic locking hubs but cant see it being much different.
Everyone calls them the 3 slow but it is the transmission that slows down the truck. Before I found Yotatech I had a 3.0 with a 5 speed transmission and felt it had plenty of power. A year or two ago I got a recall on the Steering Relay Rod (I think that is the correct name) and Toyota was still honoring it after all this time. Toyota will be able to tell you if if needs done by the VIN.
Wish we had Pic and Pull with 50% off sales in my area.
Great looking runner you have. I am always amazed at how well the 2nd gens interiors and exteriors hold up for their age. That is one of the lower mileage 2nd gens I have seen. Every one I see has more mileage then that around here. It is a tank on wheels. Never had a truck with automatic locking hubs but cant see it being much different.
Everyone calls them the 3 slow but it is the transmission that slows down the truck. Before I found Yotatech I had a 3.0 with a 5 speed transmission and felt it had plenty of power. A year or two ago I got a recall on the Steering Relay Rod (I think that is the correct name) and Toyota was still honoring it after all this time. Toyota will be able to tell you if if needs done by the VIN.
Wish we had Pic and Pull with 50% off sales in my area.
Thanks Terry.
If the trucks stays IFS I am debating about going long travel. If that route is chosen I will ditch the ADD and convert to manual hubs.
Good info about the recall, pretty cool they might honor a recall on a 21 year old truck.
Originally Posted by kawazx636
I guess I have to watch this one too! Don't let me down Robb!
Thanks Dave, it will be a kind of slow progress on this one.
I wish i could order a bunch of junk(rack up credit card) but that is not gonna happen.
I would love to have Deathcougar and Vital22RE do a 3.4 or throw a 1UZ in it..
Originally Posted by muddpigg
Buddy of mine had the 3.0 and raved how nice it felt with 5 spd pushing 37 boggers with 5:29 gears.
You know how it goes if it ain't broke don't fix it
that is for sure..if trans takes a dump, will think about adding a stick
I am a fan of the 3.slo, after a few critical mods, head gasket is one, then an exhaust bypass or crossover. Pretty easy to modify the exhaust to route more like the 5VZ(notice even Toyota saw an issue with burning up the #5 exhaust valves).
The 3.0 is a non interference engine, unlike the 22re...22re, break a chain and get new valves $$$... 3VZ, break a belt and throw a new one on. Plus, an extra 40ish hp over the 22re goes a long way, especially with a 5spd. The autotragic may suffer from old malfunctioning solenoids that are relatively cheap and easy to replace, there are 3 total. This may liven up the autotragic trans a bit. If you want better street performance you need a 5spd, but for trail duty, you'll be fine with the auto and probably happier with an offroad grand kiddie bus with one hand on the wheel and the other passing out juice boxes or letting the youngsters sit on your lap and steer the rig down the trail (probably not legal, but we have all done it with our kids).
Also, get rid of the auto-hubs for a set of manuals, I am sure yo have thought of that. Will save wear and tear on the CVs.
Pulling Codes on 1994 4Runner/Timing Belt Info - Electrical Info
RBX- lots of great info, thanks. I have kind of avoided doing a lot of digging into the 3.0 because I honestly thought i would never own one but this was too good of deal to pass up.
Currently i don't have any codes but Posting this video on pull codes for future reference.
[YOUTUBE]
Current project: 140A alternator swap
Stock alt is only 60A, so in my research I found that this alt from a '95th Cadillac Eldorado is a really close fit and puts out 140 amps.
Cadillac 's Toyota alt
You can see the mount config is really close with the 12 and 6 o'clock bolt pattern. The separation of the holes is about 3/8" bigger on the Cady alt. And the overall girth of the Cady alt requires mod of the lower adjustment bracket to be longer and with a slight angle in the middle. I extended the lower adjustment bracket about 4.75"
Also the top mount is about 1/4" smaller on the Cady alt so a shim was built out of washers.
Initial belt alignment looks good.
Still have to get a longer belt and final assembly to complete. Will update this post with those details.
Originally Posted by Scalded_Dawg
This is what my lower bracket ended up being... 4.75" longer with an angle at the joint.
Hard to tell in the pic but I set the stock arm to the engine forward side of the extension. Effectively spacing the arm forward 1/4". This was needed to lay flat against the alternator face.
Originally Posted by Scalded_Dawg
All finished up:
The belt part number I ended up with...it was actually hard to find a 4 rib belt at this length. Belt tracks real nice with only a tiny bit of vibe when revving it up.
Fired it up and ran all the lights and all the power windows at once... Didn't even flicker. Huge improvement. Now I have no fear of wheeling and winching at night with all the lights on.
OK I think I am at the end of the journey for the BJ spacer/Landcruiser Coil lift. Learned some good lesons along the way...the least of which is to take internet advice with caution since I ended up wasting time and money on incorrect part numbers.
To sum up my lift:
Front:
4Crawler 1.5" BJ spacers
Procomp +2" shocks for Toyota pickup (part# 917514)
Rear:
2x LEFT rear Landcruiser Coil (so they were the same size since LC coils are different length right and left since there were complaints that lift was also unequal if the unequal coils used) (*see note under issues below)
4Crawler 4" Panhard Drop bracket
4Crawler 4" Brake Valve Proportioner bracket (but later redrilled to 3")
Rancho 9000 series Landcruiser rear shocks (part# RS999208) (I chose these because they have a stud top like stock...some of the other recommended shocks (ie procomp 922506) were eyelet and would require an adapter to fit...and the adapter required moding the mount so you could never go back to stock)
Issues:
After all is said and done the left rear of the vehicle is higher than the right rear by 3/4". Only reason I can think of is that the LC coils are soft enough that the extra weight of the gas tank on teh right side is the culprit. Any ideas on other possible causes??? If my hunch is correct then I would recommend going with the left and right LC coils and using the longer on the right rear...
Getting my new tires and alignment tomorrow...will post pics after...right now I still have the 235/75/R15 winter tires on and it looks goofy...
Nice Low Truck with LC Coils in the back on 35's
Originally Posted by 9164RUNNER
Well here's my rig with LC coils and 35" Pro comps
Originally Posted by DetroitStyle
Quick ? about the Panhard drop bracket from 4Crawler. I'm doing LC80 coils. Did you guys just go with the 4" bracket? Or the custom one?
Note: This drop bracket kit is the perfect addition to to complete the popular Landcruiser coil spring swap. The cruiser coils give about 3"-4" of lift and that works great with the 4" panhard drop bracket to keep your rear axle centered under the vehicle after the lift.
Or install the springs and measure the panhard bar offset and go with that:
Originally Posted by MaK92-4RnR
Figured I could add my .02 to this thread now.
This is EVERYTHING you need to lift a 2nd gen 4Runner.
A front diff. drop kit can help as will keeping the front ride height as low as you can. The diff drop is really important if you find the CV joints you have are binding at full droop and you can check that doing installation:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ffDropSymptoms
Not all CVs are created equal. Some can handle more angle than others. With the front/outer CVs, they have to handle not only up/down suspension travel but also side-side steering angle. So if you have a set of CVs that can't handle the combination of angles and bind up, things go boom. If the CVs can handle the angles, then they are usually happy. It all depends on how far the grooves that the ball bearings fit into are ground. If you think of the stock height condition, Toyota probably spec'd some many degrees of angularity so that is likely what many CVs are made to operate. But some may have a few extra degrees of grooves machined in. And probably no way to tell which CV joint will work better than another other than finding a pair that last a long time.
But the bigger CV killer is what else you do with the lift. If you do the lift to fit taller tires, that is one factor, bigger tires = more load on the CVs. Then if you are doing the lift and tires for off-roading and you throw in a front locker, that is also more load on the CVs.
Threads are the least utilized tools there are for these trucks. Makes a great reference for finding and posting info along the way. Glad you posted the video on the CEL, I was not aware of the Transmission codes way. I got a kick, you are moving to the EFI world and I am collecting parts to move to the carb world. EFI can have their quirks.
The electronics is quite similar between the 22re and the 3.0 Below is a picture on the Fuel Pump Bypass. It can be done with the key on without engine running. Fp/+B Some quick Fuel supply checks that work for me is by cracking open the Cold Start Injector should tell you if you are getting fuel to the rail and injectors. You should change the crush washers each time but I dont always. Anytime you do mess with the CSI, after starting it up I always check that it is sealed well. It is under alot of pressure and a pin hole will spray fuel everywhere.
Pulling the Return line off the back of the fuel rail and running the truck or with the jumper in, it should fill a quart jar in a minute or so. It will give you an idea if you are getting plenty of fuel.
Thought I would post this since you had the Te/E1 post.
Fp +B Fuel Pump Test for 87 and newer. Use a paper clip for better results.
08-31-2015, 03:31 PM
kind of out of the beat on the truck to death phase of life
) but that is not gonna happen.
