B4Runner's 1988 4Runner Build-Up Thread
05-03-2010, 03:09 PM
#42
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IIRC Mak, the you can only use BJ spacers for like 1-1.5" and I'm looking for a bit more than that. The LT and Chevies will give me something exciting to do, 
05-10-2010, 04:42 PM
#43
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Vance, I'm typing this out just for you:
Friday after school, me and 2 buds are gonna go camping. Were taking to trucks, mine and his 2x4 Chevy. We spend 1.5 hours at my buds house looking for his stupid wallet with his license. In the end, it took us 2 seconds to copy his old permit paper since our search failed.
We stop at Valero to get some gas, seeds, gum, etc. As we are ready to leave, the Chevy decides it needs a jump. (It's not doing too strong either.)
Then, after about 5 miles up into the mountains at about 35 mph, my friend is infront of me and his truck hella starts smoking. So we pulled off the road and discovered it was just disinigrated ash from the fire ring.
10 miles up, and we passed our first camp site. Mr. 2x4 decided he wants to go to the right side of the road ans hit some "shallow" snow. Yeah, took us half an hour to dig him out of there with wood and rock him out. Lucky me, we had to unload a 400 lbs. box at home. Used my emergeny tow line to tow the dolly up. My dad suggested to leave it on since it was hard to get on and we would need it again. So far, now we have wasted about 2 hours and 10 minutes.
So, we turn around and head back to the place we saw on our way up and decided not to camp there as we passed the first time. As I was waiting for my friend to find where exactly to set up, I hella flexed out on a hill and shut off my engine. A minute later, he asks me to bring my lights over. But, my truck won't start. So we jump start it, position both trucks to set up, and kill the engines.
We find that none of our batteries work for the air pump for the matress. Making an attempt to go back to town for batteries, my truck won't start. Place it in reverse and back down the hill, but it wont start. Push it to hit the down hill, and it won't start again. Get the Chevy to jump start it, but nothing.
Before we get back up, the other guy calls us to say that we are being kicked out. Apparently we were camping on property that was contracted out for the weekend. So, since we had already had out tent up, fire going and everything, we were left with a huge problem. The lady went back up, got us some spare firewood and a shovel to put out the one we had. Then, all three of us got the huge tent into the small-box Chevy. Two of us hold the tent in back as we follow the lady down the road to where she says we can camp. (Never knew that it was perfectly legal to camp right off the side of the road on national forrest land.)
Once we get the tent out and positioned, my Chevy friend heads back to town to get batteries while the other guy and I are taken back to the property to coast my truck down. It's pitch black, the lights are dying as we roll very slowly through the mountain since the breaks are hard and there is no power stearing. The truck still won't pop-start.
Once we get the truck to our camp site (parked ont he side of the road), we wait for at least half an hour waiting for the dude with the batteries. We didn't have a flash light either, so we couldn't do anything. All the while, it's getting colder and we can't get my windows to go up. Took a million tried to get them to budge and then help by pulling them up at the same time.
That's basically it for that camping night. It was 11:30 PM at the earliest by the time we had everything set up and a new fire going.
In the morning, we're going to coast my truck as far down as we can. When I hit 35 mph, I throw it into third and release the clutch. I almost thought it wasn't running until I saw I my tach registering. (It doesn't register when it wasn't running.) Not even going to explain how my Chevy friend thought that my truck wasn't running at first when he saw me going up hills and exhaust from my pipe.
And that pretty much concludes all that bad luck. With a dead battery and the alternator not working during the night, it makes perfect sence that it wouldn't even pop-start.
So today, just a bit ago, I got my alternator out and bought some new brushes on Mother's Day. But I swear, that 3VZ-E alternator is horribly hard to get out. Took forever to get it passed everything. And, I decided that I need manual windows. For sure. Almost had to leave my truck perfectly open and ready for anything to be stolen.
How is that for bad luck Vance? Haha.
Friday after school, me and 2 buds are gonna go camping. Were taking to trucks, mine and his 2x4 Chevy. We spend 1.5 hours at my buds house looking for his stupid wallet with his license. In the end, it took us 2 seconds to copy his old permit paper since our search failed.
We stop at Valero to get some gas, seeds, gum, etc. As we are ready to leave, the Chevy decides it needs a jump. (It's not doing too strong either.)
Then, after about 5 miles up into the mountains at about 35 mph, my friend is infront of me and his truck hella starts smoking. So we pulled off the road and discovered it was just disinigrated ash from the fire ring.
10 miles up, and we passed our first camp site. Mr. 2x4 decided he wants to go to the right side of the road ans hit some "shallow" snow. Yeah, took us half an hour to dig him out of there with wood and rock him out. Lucky me, we had to unload a 400 lbs. box at home. Used my emergeny tow line to tow the dolly up. My dad suggested to leave it on since it was hard to get on and we would need it again. So far, now we have wasted about 2 hours and 10 minutes.
So, we turn around and head back to the place we saw on our way up and decided not to camp there as we passed the first time. As I was waiting for my friend to find where exactly to set up, I hella flexed out on a hill and shut off my engine. A minute later, he asks me to bring my lights over. But, my truck won't start. So we jump start it, position both trucks to set up, and kill the engines.
We find that none of our batteries work for the air pump for the matress. Making an attempt to go back to town for batteries, my truck won't start. Place it in reverse and back down the hill, but it wont start. Push it to hit the down hill, and it won't start again. Get the Chevy to jump start it, but nothing.
Before we get back up, the other guy calls us to say that we are being kicked out. Apparently we were camping on property that was contracted out for the weekend. So, since we had already had out tent up, fire going and everything, we were left with a huge problem. The lady went back up, got us some spare firewood and a shovel to put out the one we had. Then, all three of us got the huge tent into the small-box Chevy. Two of us hold the tent in back as we follow the lady down the road to where she says we can camp. (Never knew that it was perfectly legal to camp right off the side of the road on national forrest land.)
Once we get the tent out and positioned, my Chevy friend heads back to town to get batteries while the other guy and I are taken back to the property to coast my truck down. It's pitch black, the lights are dying as we roll very slowly through the mountain since the breaks are hard and there is no power stearing. The truck still won't pop-start.
Once we get the truck to our camp site (parked ont he side of the road), we wait for at least half an hour waiting for the dude with the batteries. We didn't have a flash light either, so we couldn't do anything. All the while, it's getting colder and we can't get my windows to go up. Took a million tried to get them to budge and then help by pulling them up at the same time.
That's basically it for that camping night. It was 11:30 PM at the earliest by the time we had everything set up and a new fire going.
In the morning, we're going to coast my truck as far down as we can. When I hit 35 mph, I throw it into third and release the clutch. I almost thought it wasn't running until I saw I my tach registering. (It doesn't register when it wasn't running.) Not even going to explain how my Chevy friend thought that my truck wasn't running at first when he saw me going up hills and exhaust from my pipe.
And that pretty much concludes all that bad luck. With a dead battery and the alternator not working during the night, it makes perfect sence that it wouldn't even pop-start.
So today, just a bit ago, I got my alternator out and bought some new brushes on Mother's Day. But I swear, that 3VZ-E alternator is horribly hard to get out. Took forever to get it passed everything. And, I decided that I need manual windows. For sure. Almost had to leave my truck perfectly open and ready for anything to be stolen.
How is that for bad luck Vance? Haha.
05-10-2010, 08:09 PM
#44
lol I love you brandon im sorry man! looks like i prolly wont get my sas finished to sunday due to my part not getting here till 2morrow and i doubt i can get it all don on my day off hopefully but prolly not and i have the afterhours phone till friday 
05-10-2010, 10:00 PM
#45
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Thread Starter
This summer, I'm going to ditch the stock taillights...kinda. I'm going to completely paint the lenses black (except for maybe the intented reflector). Then, I'm going to though in a single rounded rectangular LED brake/taillight on each side. And then for the reverse, I'm just going to run them through some tractor lights under my bumper. Redneck much?
I also plan on ditching the power windows and going for manual-windowed doors. I really love the full-window dor panel, and really hate the vent-window door panel, but if you read my huge camping story above, I'm starting to find the sway necessary. Plus, that will just eliminate all the more wiring. And allow me to put my speakers in the doors.
You have seen all my switch relocations and mods? The three stock switches in the console are the rear wiper switch (now where the deck light switch was), the rear window switch (now where the clutch cancel start button was), and the rear window lock button (which was a complete waste of wiring and a switch on Toyota's part and has since been removed). My point being, in order to run my switches to the new locations, I;ve ran wires from the console to the dash. So during the summer, while I have the carpet out to be steam cleaned, Ill just rip the stock console harness to the dash, which will eliminate tons of extra wiring to the console and make things alot less hectic.
I also plan on ditching the power windows and going for manual-windowed doors. I really love the full-window dor panel, and really hate the vent-window door panel, but if you read my huge camping story above, I'm starting to find the sway necessary. Plus, that will just eliminate all the more wiring. And allow me to put my speakers in the doors.
You have seen all my switch relocations and mods? The three stock switches in the console are the rear wiper switch (now where the deck light switch was), the rear window switch (now where the clutch cancel start button was), and the rear window lock button (which was a complete waste of wiring and a switch on Toyota's part and has since been removed). My point being, in order to run my switches to the new locations, I;ve ran wires from the console to the dash. So during the summer, while I have the carpet out to be steam cleaned, Ill just rip the stock console harness to the dash, which will eliminate tons of extra wiring to the console and make things alot less hectic.
05-24-2010, 09:57 PM
#47
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Thread Starter
Thanks MC. (Made a new e-mail, and havent yet changed my YT info, so I'm not being informed of new posts via e-mail right now.) With the old doors, I'm gonna sell them, or try. Haha. Along with all the power windor electrical crap. No sense in keeping that junk in there. I wanna eventually run doorless during summers, or at least tube doors.
And to prevent theft when the truck is wide open, I'm gonna throw in a toggle switch for the fuel pump. Anyone know of an easy, hidden location to mount such a switch? Easy to flip, yet not necessary too easy for a theft to find.
Let's see, I got a new mod done. The first pic is the original plan. Big time fail. The next two pix are how its sits and how its stays. Dropped the spare and the bumper. Just threw on some extra trailer lights we had because why not?
And to prevent theft when the truck is wide open, I'm gonna throw in a toggle switch for the fuel pump. Anyone know of an easy, hidden location to mount such a switch? Easy to flip, yet not necessary too easy for a theft to find.
Let's see, I got a new mod done. The first pic is the original plan. Big time fail. The next two pix are how its sits and how its stays. Dropped the spare and the bumper. Just threw on some extra trailer lights we had because why not?
05-25-2010, 06:14 AM
#49
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I might be in the market for a set of doors to hack up a bit, if the price is right.
Looks like it is time for a tube bumper!
As far as switches go- there are plenty of places that would be out of sight in the cab. I would want it within reach of the driver, but not visible or apparent. You will figure something out.
Looks like it is time for a tube bumper!
As far as switches go- there are plenty of places that would be out of sight in the cab. I would want it within reach of the driver, but not visible or apparent. You will figure something out.
05-25-2010, 03:53 PM
#50
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Thread Starter
For sure. If I can find some good old manual doors, we can for sure work something out. When the time is right (as in funds), I'm going to see if I can get Adam to build me his rear bumper. It's like, the cleanest bumper I've seen. Not bulky at all, clean and simple hitch receiver, and there to get the job done. As for the switch, the hardest part of the job for me will be finding the patience to find the wires and everything. Haha.
05-25-2010, 04:01 PM
#51
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IIRC, the easiest place to access the wire is inline as it comes forward from the tank along the passenger side of the vehicle. It goes under the plastic piece that screws at the bottom of the door sill (held on with four or five phillips head screws), then passes behind the computer and goes up under the dash. Of course, that would place the switch closer to the passenger than the driver, unless you accessed it higher in the dash or just extended the wire or set up a relay.
05-25-2010, 05:23 PM
#52
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Thread Starter
Oh yeah, I'd for sure run some extra wire. Haha, you know theres never enough wire in my truck. Lol.
And guys, I need an opinion on my game plan for lift and suspension. I am for sure going to do Blazeland LT & 63" Chevies. (Going to move the hangers forward 11" and the shackles backwards 4".) But as for tires and gearing, I don't know what I want to do. My two options are either going with 33" tires with 4.88 gearing. But I'm not sure if my tires will look to small compared to the amount of lift I will have. Or, the other option is to go with 35's and 5.29 gearing, then add like a 2" or 3" BL to prevent rubbing on the firewall. Opinions please? Thanks!
And guys, I need an opinion on my game plan for lift and suspension. I am for sure going to do Blazeland LT & 63" Chevies. (Going to move the hangers forward 11" and the shackles backwards 4".) But as for tires and gearing, I don't know what I want to do. My two options are either going with 33" tires with 4.88 gearing. But I'm not sure if my tires will look to small compared to the amount of lift I will have. Or, the other option is to go with 35's and 5.29 gearing, then add like a 2" or 3" BL to prevent rubbing on the firewall. Opinions please? Thanks!
05-25-2010, 05:59 PM
#54
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33s are smaller, lighter and cheaper. The more you lift your truck, the more weight you push higher. I'm not sure that there are many places around here that 35s can go and 33s can't, but I bet that there are a lot of places and situations that a lower center of gravity would be the difference between driving and sitting next to a stuck or wrecked truck. Just my opinion, of course- but it seems like 33's would be sufficient.
05-25-2010, 09:45 PM
#55
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Very true. Hadn't thought that one all the way though. Kinda was in a hurry to get the question out.
MC, I have my eyes out for some manual window doors. As soon as I find some, I'll let you know.
MC, I have my eyes out for some manual window doors. As soon as I find some, I'll let you know.
06-22-2010, 12:30 AM
#56
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I'm 16 with barely any extra money to spare, so I have more than enough time for my plans to constantly change. Haha. Here are my plans as of now:
1. I'm going to completely replace the rear panels with sheet metal or diamond plate, cargo and passanger areas. How do you think plain sheet metal would look? Of course diamond plate would look better, but I'm sure sheet metal is cheaper. I plan to make lockable doors, basically where the stock ones were, so that I can keep stuff safely locked up while running topless during the summer. Next decision, should I leave the diamond plate or sheet metal its normal metal color, or paint it black? I know about heat it will create and stuff, but I want my truck to be visually appealing for what it is. The same panel scheme will be applied to the doors.
2. I am actually in the process of removing the carpet from my truck so I can spray on some bedliner. There are several factors that lead me to this decision: the first rainy week while running topless that got to the cargo area carpet, the few stains that have accumulated over the years, and how I'm annoyed of always seeing dirt hopelessly embedded into the carpet.
3. The rear heater is pointless for me in my truck. It's just a waste of space. (It also needed to come out for easier removal of carpet.) Without the heater, I can look into getting a full-size console or an afermarket locking one.
No matter what I tried to do to undo get the rubber hose off the heather, it wouldn't budge. So, I decided to cut the rubber from the under-side. I never knew that the heather needed anti-freeze. And yeah, I'm sure you know what comes next. Big old mess of anti-freeze on the soon-to-be shop floor. It wasn't too hard of a fix though. Just cut some tubing out from the engine bay that lead to those rear heater pipes and cpmpletely bypassed the sucker. I just need to fill up on antifreeze in the morning and I'll be good. Will finish getting the heater, carpet, and everything out too.
I'll get some pix up asap, hopefully tomorrow.
1. I'm going to completely replace the rear panels with sheet metal or diamond plate, cargo and passanger areas. How do you think plain sheet metal would look? Of course diamond plate would look better, but I'm sure sheet metal is cheaper. I plan to make lockable doors, basically where the stock ones were, so that I can keep stuff safely locked up while running topless during the summer. Next decision, should I leave the diamond plate or sheet metal its normal metal color, or paint it black? I know about heat it will create and stuff, but I want my truck to be visually appealing for what it is. The same panel scheme will be applied to the doors.
2. I am actually in the process of removing the carpet from my truck so I can spray on some bedliner. There are several factors that lead me to this decision: the first rainy week while running topless that got to the cargo area carpet, the few stains that have accumulated over the years, and how I'm annoyed of always seeing dirt hopelessly embedded into the carpet.
3. The rear heater is pointless for me in my truck. It's just a waste of space. (It also needed to come out for easier removal of carpet.) Without the heater, I can look into getting a full-size console or an afermarket locking one.
No matter what I tried to do to undo get the rubber hose off the heather, it wouldn't budge. So, I decided to cut the rubber from the under-side. I never knew that the heather needed anti-freeze. And yeah, I'm sure you know what comes next. Big old mess of anti-freeze on the soon-to-be shop floor. It wasn't too hard of a fix though. Just cut some tubing out from the engine bay that lead to those rear heater pipes and cpmpletely bypassed the sucker. I just need to fill up on antifreeze in the morning and I'll be good. Will finish getting the heater, carpet, and everything out too.
I'll get some pix up asap, hopefully tomorrow.
06-22-2010, 06:25 AM
#57
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My metal sides are almost done. I've discovered a couple of things-
1/8" diamondplate is way overkill. It is heavy. I'm still using it, because I had a sheet lying around, but you don't need anything that thick. Plain sheet would be cheaper and easier to work with, but would be more prone to dent, and would show inconsistencies worse.
Keep your current interior panels to use as templates. It is far easier than reinventing the wheel. The sides are different, so don't get them mixed up.
Find someone with plasma who can cut it for you or let you cut it. That turned a one day job into a twenty minute job.
You need to protect the metal somehow. Paint or powdercoat it. You can use a clear if you want the "white" metal look. I'm going to bedline mine when I do the rest of the interior.
Let me know if you want to have a Hurculiner party. Sounds like we can use a cheap HF gun and thin the Hurculiner a bit, then spray it in.
I like the way you are leaning... of course that might be because it is exactly like what I am looking at doing.
MC
1/8" diamondplate is way overkill. It is heavy. I'm still using it, because I had a sheet lying around, but you don't need anything that thick. Plain sheet would be cheaper and easier to work with, but would be more prone to dent, and would show inconsistencies worse.
Keep your current interior panels to use as templates. It is far easier than reinventing the wheel. The sides are different, so don't get them mixed up.
Find someone with plasma who can cut it for you or let you cut it. That turned a one day job into a twenty minute job.
You need to protect the metal somehow. Paint or powdercoat it. You can use a clear if you want the "white" metal look. I'm going to bedline mine when I do the rest of the interior.
Let me know if you want to have a Hurculiner party. Sounds like we can use a cheap HF gun and thin the Hurculiner a bit, then spray it in.
I like the way you are leaning... of course that might be because it is exactly like what I am looking at doing.
MC
06-22-2010, 07:27 AM
#58
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Thread Starter
Thanks for all the info MC! Are you using the dimond plate in just the cargo area or the entire thing. I've only seen one pic of how it looks. Not too bad, IMO. All opinions I've gotten from people though say to not do the passenger area. But I don't find a problem with it. Imma put my speakers where the storage compartments were and then cigarette lighters on each side a little further up. Then, bolt on a metal bicycle cup holders to each side. They can hold water and cans of soda and small stuff.
What gauge diamond plate would you recommend? 1/16, Maybe a bit more?
And the Hurculiner party sounds great. Haha. I'm looking to do mine relatively soon, or so I hope. I don't want to run around for too long with no carpet or liner.
What gauge diamond plate would you recommend? 1/16, Maybe a bit more?
And the Hurculiner party sounds great. Haha. I'm looking to do mine relatively soon, or so I hope. I don't want to run around for too long with no carpet or liner.
06-22-2010, 01:33 PM
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I'm doing one solid piece from the tailgate to right behind the front seatbelt. I don't know why people would want to make it more complicated. It runs up to a nice flat spot there and I think it will make for a nice, stiff, uniform side. The nice thing about the 1/8" is that it will be strong enough to put lockable doors in and to mount any other things to.
I don't know how thin the diamondplate is produced. Steel is cheaper than aluminum, but aluminum would be lighter and better looking if left unpainted.
I don't know how thin the diamondplate is produced. Steel is cheaper than aluminum, but aluminum would be lighter and better looking if left unpainted.
