22R-E rebuild
11-25-2016, 08:05 PM
#1
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22R-E rebuild
1991 pickup, 22R-E
Check out these pics, i am new to yotatech.com and rebuilding an engine, i bought this for a rebuild project, first things first is this a 22R-E the sticker on the valve cover is gone, I'm wanting anyone's input from face value what does the condition look like and is there anything missing, also where do i start, i read a lot of things that say take off the cover and oil pan lake a look at the cam/crank shaft, i didn't do much while i was picking it up, i was stoked of finally finding an engine that was cheap and close to home, i got it home and reality set in so when i turned the 19mm bolt i can hear what sounds like compression but i have not hooked up a hose to the spark area, i noticed the valve cover was cracked and it had a whole lot of rtv at most of the mating surfaces and a visible gasket, the guy i bought it from told me he replaced a front seal where oil was leaking and while he did that he installed an upgraded timing kit, I'm guessing that is the metal backed timing guides, the tip of the oil stick is black and dry, any suggestions
Check out these pics, i am new to yotatech.com and rebuilding an engine, i bought this for a rebuild project, first things first is this a 22R-E the sticker on the valve cover is gone, I'm wanting anyone's input from face value what does the condition look like and is there anything missing, also where do i start, i read a lot of things that say take off the cover and oil pan lake a look at the cam/crank shaft, i didn't do much while i was picking it up, i was stoked of finally finding an engine that was cheap and close to home, i got it home and reality set in so when i turned the 19mm bolt i can hear what sounds like compression but i have not hooked up a hose to the spark area, i noticed the valve cover was cracked and it had a whole lot of rtv at most of the mating surfaces and a visible gasket, the guy i bought it from told me he replaced a front seal where oil was leaking and while he did that he installed an upgraded timing kit, I'm guessing that is the metal backed timing guides, the tip of the oil stick is black and dry, any suggestions
11-25-2016, 08:36 PM
#2
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It is indeed a 22re.
Can't tell a thing looking at the outside.
It is a good sign that you can turn it over with a rachet.
You can tell a bit about how tough the engines life has been by examination of the cylinder bores and the condition of the main and con rod bearing shells, but it takes precision measurements with inside and outside micrometers to tell the real story.
You may find markings on the pistons and on the bearing shells that will tell if the bores and crank journals are still standard, or have been reworked in a previous rebuild.
If this is your first rebuild, get a factory service manual, and pay close attention to what it says.
Good luck, you are likely to get a good result if you take your time and find a decent machine shop to work the head and block, as needed.
Can't tell a thing looking at the outside.
It is a good sign that you can turn it over with a rachet.
You can tell a bit about how tough the engines life has been by examination of the cylinder bores and the condition of the main and con rod bearing shells, but it takes precision measurements with inside and outside micrometers to tell the real story.
You may find markings on the pistons and on the bearing shells that will tell if the bores and crank journals are still standard, or have been reworked in a previous rebuild.
If this is your first rebuild, get a factory service manual, and pay close attention to what it says.
Good luck, you are likely to get a good result if you take your time and find a decent machine shop to work the head and block, as needed.
Last edited by millball; 11-25-2016 at 08:39 PM.
11-26-2016, 08:48 AM
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Thanks millball, on the recommendation of an FSM I have seen four, one that covers chassis, body, electrical, and specifications, a second one that covers engine and specifications, a third that covers technical service bulletins and a fourth that contains the electrical wiring diagrams. Are all four recommended, they get to be quite pricey for all four, about $430 on eBay used. I've seen where others have downloaded them offline, is any of that still online and available for download? I have a Chilton's it's a little hard to get through because each component removal has its reinstall not a complete step by step of where to start which is what i need and there is a lot of repeat where it says "see XXXXXX" to remove/install procedure. A little more about the engine...I was told that it had 136,000 when the owner was hauling a load and the oil started leaking (that's why the front view pic has the blue gasket installed), says it wasn't driven after the leak started but I suspect it was at least driven to a safe location due to the dipstick being black see pic, it was towed back to town where it sat until a jasper rebuild was its replacement, the replacement was roughly a year ago. I also posted some pics of the '91 pickup that the rebuild is going into. ill have to find other pics, it hasn't been driven in 4 years and its been covered for about 3 of the 4 years its been dormant. the reason I'm going to rebuild is because the engine in it is a salvage that was installed and started overheating about 4,000 after install, replaced the head and gasket and it didn't last long maybe 3 months overheated, parked on the side of the road and friend towed it back and hasn't ran since and bought the engine that is in the garage now.
11-26-2016, 09:42 AM
#4
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You don't need all the FSM volumes, at least probably not all at once.
Obviously, you'll need the one that covers engine overhaul, and eventually, the one with electrical diagrams for your year and model machine.
The others are a little less important to what work you have at hand right now.
You probably have the time to shop and wait for a lower price opportunity on all but the engine volume.
There are still some manuals available for perusal, or download, from the web, but I don't have any links at my fingertips to give you.
Maybe another yoda-techie will chime in.
You're gonna love that truck once you get her squared away.
Obviously, you'll need the one that covers engine overhaul, and eventually, the one with electrical diagrams for your year and model machine.
The others are a little less important to what work you have at hand right now.
You probably have the time to shop and wait for a lower price opportunity on all but the engine volume.
There are still some manuals available for perusal, or download, from the web, but I don't have any links at my fingertips to give you.
Maybe another yoda-techie will chime in.
You're gonna love that truck once you get her squared away.
11-27-2016, 07:41 PM
#5
You asked about missing pieces, I spotted the brackets for the alternator and power steering in the background however you seem not to have the upper intake (Plenum, throttle body, IACV)
Step #1 is clean it off. For one the machinist shop is going to charge you to do it if you don't do it very well. Secondly you don't want any of that dropping into the cleaner parts. Finally no body wants to touch that crap even you right?
Step #2 is disassembly, but only after you get at least most of the crust off. Again don't want it dropping into the cleaner bits or you won't know how clean they really are.
Step #3 Cleaning again, you need to inspect internals. I am going to assume they look similar to your dipstick and are crusty. Again they charge you more if you bring in "junk".
Step #4 Measure everything, by the book. Best to have the pros do this but it won't hurt (don't drop anything) to give it a once over to compare with the machinist.
Get er done!
Step #1 is clean it off. For one the machinist shop is going to charge you to do it if you don't do it very well. Secondly you don't want any of that dropping into the cleaner parts. Finally no body wants to touch that crap even you right?
Step #2 is disassembly, but only after you get at least most of the crust off. Again don't want it dropping into the cleaner bits or you won't know how clean they really are.
Step #3 Cleaning again, you need to inspect internals. I am going to assume they look similar to your dipstick and are crusty. Again they charge you more if you bring in "junk".
Step #4 Measure everything, by the book. Best to have the pros do this but it won't hurt (don't drop anything) to give it a once over to compare with the machinist.
Get er done!
