thefishguy77

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Well finally starting my 85 4runner build thread. The timing chain started the "death rattle". So I pulled the valve cover and slack in the drivers side. Going to use an engine builder head and marlin crawler 12,000 pound clutch. I will update more tonight

thefishguy77

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so I was originally planned to rebuild the motor myself, but with a new baby here I am thinking that having someone else rebuild it and myself just R&R is the best thing. I am planning on using the engnbldr street rv head. I am torn on the can though. I have a lot of good thing about engnbldrs 261 cam. But I have also been cautioned against using anything but a OEM can for the hardness issue, or lack there of. The builder I am using says to have an OEM can ground to what ever specs I am looking for. What is everyone's opinion on the OEM vs aftermarket cams?

Looking at getting all metal guides for the new chain as well, water and oil pumps will be replaced. The crank will be checked and new pistons rings bearings ect as well.

The runner has a NWOR header with 2 1\4 exhaust. Supra AFM. and going to be getting a set of flame thrower injectors as well.


Let me know your thoughts and opinions on this motor build.

suspension and diff's will have to wait till after motor but plans for that are OME Dakar 2", 4:56's Detroit softlocker in the rear and trutrack up front. home made sliders, bumpers, and other stuff.

yoterr

Sounds like a pretty good build, as for the hardness of the cams I've seen online threads about it but I had a 268 eb cam on my old rig and had 0 issues with it...and I'm actually going to be buying another one as soon as I'm done with the suspension side of my runner haha

Gizler00

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Build sounds great so far. Lets see some Pictures when you get the chance.

As far as the cam goes... I have been running the engnbldr 268 cam for almost 7000 miles now on my new build and have been loving it. No issues to speak of to this point in time.

I would definitely recommend getting the parts from TED (engnbldr). Well worth it.

rick8282

I've installed 6-7 of his cams, most bought from him in person. Nice guy. Never had an issue with any of them. I have also rebuilt 3 engines with his kits and never had an issue with them eather.

thefishguy77

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Thanks for the feedback guys. I was talking to a fellow gear head and he mentioned he has a 2jz NA motor available. It's a fresh motor never been fired
since the build. He totaled his supra drag car. I can pick it up for around 700 with the supra brain. Everything I have read on the swap indicates it it a wiring nightmare. Anyone know from personal experience with the swap?

It's always the teasers that pop up right before you spend the money

Edit: this link should have pictures in it
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...runner-286199/

yoterr

Luckyyyyy!! I'm more than likely gonna shoot for a 7mgte swap when the four pissed off squirrels die, but from most of my reading as long as it's not a vvt engine it's not that bad, pretty much like any other fuel injected swap

thefishguy77

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OK so after kicking the 2jz motor swap around I decided that since I have trouble wiring a stero in a 2jz swap was probably above my pay grade. I just got off the phone it engnbldr and have a super stock head, 261 cam, and timing set on the way. Really looking forward to getting her back on the road. Already have my 1200 # Marlin Crawler clutch in the garage. Might have to pony up and get those injectors soon. Or they could wait till I do the throttle body and plenum swap.

thefishguy77

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Well my head, cam, timing chain all showed up yesterday. I will try and post pics tomorrow. Need to get the engine pulled soon

thefishguy77

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Ok so with work and baby it's going to be a very slow build. I am having a hard time justifying paying someone else to build my motor so HOPEFULLY tomorrow evening I won't be too tired from digging fence post hole in 100 deg weather that I can start tearing apart my "spare" motor to see what shape the crank is in. It sat for a bit with coolant in the crank case. Obliviously the bearings are shot but as long as the crank is still good I should be in good shape I should be good to go. Rods bearings and pistons were going to be replaced already. Just need to get the block and cover resurfaced and the crank inspected then order more parts from engnbldr.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

OK so I found that the drivers side timing chain guide decided to break after 230k+ miles. Not bad for plastic :-) . So although I am close to doing my new motor I am not quite ready to get the block and crank work yet. So I pulled the oil pan and timing cover off to replace the chain set with a less than 5 miles use one I had.

I set it to tdc on compression and then started pulling it apart. AC, PS, oil & water pump, finally cover. Some how surfing the dissassembly the crank and cam got moved ever so slightly together before the chain was off. So slightly that I didn't notice until it was almost all back together.

After I put the oil pump back on I realized it was about a crank pully notch to the right of zero on the pump. I rolled it back to zero counterclockwise a smidge and noticed that the drivers side chain is not taught there I a little slack in it. Not a lot but more than none at all. So my question is do I need to do it again? Or can I roll it through a full compression and exhaust cycle slowly and listen for valve and piston contact with the plugs pulled?

What are your thoughts?

thefishguy77

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Ok so I got her put back together. Still need to get it timed but new chain and guides. New water pump/oil pump, cleaned out the oil pan, wire wheeled the rust off the outside of the pan and painted. RTV for oil pan gasket. She runs good. Doesn't appear to leak. Time will tell. In the mean time I forgot to tighten my AC adjuster pulley and lost the pulley. Now I need to find a new pulley. I wonder if I may have one in the garage. hmmmm. Going to try and run a compression test this week to get an idea of how long I may have on the motor.

Still waiting to get my other block bored out and crank checked.

thefishguy77

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OK so been busy with the kid and forgot all about this thread. I have had cooling issues and just haven't had the time to look at it. It is pressurizing the cooling system and blowing out the overflow. No oil or coolant mixing. Probably a bad HG but I am going to pull the T stat and put a new radiator cap on it. I have a new Toyota T stat but was going to save it for the rebuild. I just need to find the money to rebuild the motor. Damn kids are expensive! On well I will get it done someday.

Terrys87

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I have tried replacing the thermostat and radiator cap in hopes of not having a blown head gasket. That did not work out to well for me. Could always be a slight chance it will work for you but I am betting on the head gasket.

thefishguy77

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Yea Terry I would have to agree. I actually have a new head already from EB. I was hoping to be able to do the whole thing at once. Top and bottom end. Keep the crank and all else new but I need\want to start driving this again so bad. Also do my suspension, gears, lockers this winter. Start next spring out right.

thefishguy77

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OK so long time no update.

Pretty sure I spun a rod bearing in the original motor. Pulled my spare motor apart to see what I need to get her going and then called engnbldr. Going to rering her along with new rod and main bearings, thrust washers, front and rear seals, oil pump and timing chain. Around $150 in parts. Wow that's a good deal.

I have the unused engnbldr head w/261 cam already and a Marlin 1200# clutch. Just waiting in the garage. Need to also get a new master and slave. Then I'm all set.

I just need to measure the bearing journals to make sure I get the right size. Super feeling excited!!!!!!!!!

thefishguy77

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So it's been so long I couldn't find my build up😔. But GOOD UPDATE!!!!! Motor parts are here. Thank you very much Engnbldr and Marlin crawler for the great quality parts and work. Now it on me. I know pics or it didn't happen so here you go

Gizler00

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Oh yes!!!!!!

thefishguy77

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Got the block painted and the bottom end together. Started pulling the bad motor apart in the 4Runner so I can make sure I have the correct timing chain and cover bolts.
More pics






Rings all clocked

Crank bolted down

Pistons in

Rods bolted in
More pics tomorrow

Going to put the new head on and get it bolted down tomorrow timing chain on and hopefully cover on as well. I am using white lithium grease as an assembly lube because she not going to get fired right away

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Ok so pretty much have a long block now. Timing chain, cover, oil, water pump on. Need to pull my other oil pan as its been recently cleaned. Dropped the valve cover on and mocked up the distributor for pics. I have that plat that sits on the back of the head soaking in odorless mineral spirits because it was very clogged. Probably pull it out tonight and give it a rinse. Need to go buy exhaust studs. (Can't believe I forgot about those). Then start unbolting the other motor in the 4Runner I have a spare set of motor mounts that I'm going to use.

But my question is do I paint the valve cover, intake and plenum. I have heard it traps heat in the valve cover and that's not good. But so many people do it so what do you think.

On with the pics