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engine has 230K --- runs terrible/burns a lot of oil.
My plans are to build a crawler. It is going to be a lot of work, but will be a great experience for my son and I. This is not my first rodeo, but we are going to do this one right.
The truck looks solid. Open a Photobucket account. With your pictures in PB, copy the last link [IMG....IMG] to your thread and it will appear in your post.
Welcome to Yotatech. What are your plans for your runner?
Welcome to Yotatech! That looks like a solid runner!
Whats up with the engine? My old engine has similar miles and burned tons of oil, but I was able to make it run great, minus burning oil. You might be able to get away with a new/used head, timing kit and have it run for another 150,000 if you are just looking for a quick fix.
This is the pile of parts that were necessary to remove in order to get the engine out of the truck. Engine removal took about 2 hours.
you can see my cardboard box that I will fill with all of the egr and smog equipment... that stuff will definately not be going back on the engine... going forward, if anyone needs any of this stuff, just let me know.
So I put the engine on a harbor freight engine stand, went a bought a box of 1 gallon sized, heavy duty GLAD Ziploc freezer bags (the cheap ones are not strong enough)... and now its time to disassemble, bag and tag!
Sorry for not giving a lot of picture captions but I promise when it comes to disassembling the 22r series engines, there really isn't much to say.
a few key points to remember:
stay organized - whether you use bins, boxes, or bags (my preference) --- make sure that you remove a component and store it with all of the associated hardware. "With organization, you can overcome ignorance"
make sure and mark the forward position of the valve bridge.
The head bolts need to be removed in a certain sequence to avoid possibly warping the head.
make sure and mark (I use a punch) the crank main bearing caps for position and orientation.... the same goes for the rods and pistons.
take lots of pictures
below is a finished shot of the engine completely disassembled, bagged and tagged so that nothing is lost and a month from now when I am ready to re-assemble, I will have everything I need.
oh, and ... I am lazy, so I wont clean anything until reassembly so that I don't clean anything that wont be used for assembly.
so now I am off to the machine shop with the block and crank.
the block looks really good, no bore ridge at all, only some ring impressions left over from where this baby sat dormant for a few years. The crank has some grooving so it will def need to be ground and oversized bearings will be needed.
anyhow, I promise assembly will be a lot more fun and I will give a lot more descriptions and defining information regarding the steps and any tips and tricks that I use to get 'er done.
Got the block and crank back from the machine shop yesterday. It took them a month took get the machine work done. They are really good, but very busy as all good shops are. Thanks Tim, Tony and Chris!
I ordered the rebuild kit through the machine shop, they were able to save me about $100 ----- mostly all DNJ. good stuff.
The cylinder bores ended up mic'ing within OEM spec but had some heavy staining from a long period when the truck was in storage, somewhere in North Dakota (I believe). So I decided to go with +.0020 cylinder kit. I had the kit shipped to the machine shop so they could measure exact piston spec and bore correctly with exact clearances.
ok so here's some pics so we can all see the good work they did on the block.
Now the fun begins.... time to set up the lower end.
time to crack open the assembly lube. The FSM call for motor oil to be used for lower end assembly, but we all know that lithium assembly grease is needed. Apply a thin coat to all bearings and washers during assembly.
oh... and don't forget that this part is best done while wearing flip flops and drinking your fav cold beverage.
Install upper main bearings into block. make sure and insert bearings so that the "tang" lines up correctly with the tang groove in the bearing seat.
Install upper thrust washers into block on the outside of bearing seat #3 (the middle one), with the oil grooves facing outward. Thrust washers go on BOTH sides of the bearing seat.
The upper thrust washer is the half without the tab
Next install crankshaft so that the bearing journals on the crank lay firmly in to the upper main bearings.
Time to install main bearing caps.
Start with bearing cap #3 and install lower main bearing so that tang and tang groove line up in bearing seat with bearing cap. Install lower thrust washer on the both side of bearing cap with oil grove facing outward. remember to use assembly grease to help thrust washer stick to bearing cap.
Place bearing cap so that the cap lines up with bearing journal on crank and so that the thrust washers fit between crank lobes. slightly wiggle bearing cap in to place. Install Main bearing cap bolts and hand tighten.
06-04-2015, 12:35 PM
----- mostly all DNJ. good stuff.
