Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

The guy I bought it from is a personal friend and i have the receipts for the rebuild and I also know the company that does the rebuilding local as well as the mechanic that installed it. So I feel pretty confident that it was done correctly. But I will try and check compression. Would a clogged air filter cause this?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Clogged filter could cause it, but again, it would be present through all gears. Put it this way - The engine doesn't know what gear the tranny is in, it's doing the same job whether it is in 1st or 5th gear. Obviously it may have to do a little more work as you go up in the gears because of rolling resistance and drag like I said, but a fall off in power like you are describing doesn't seem right. Try putting the parking brake on little by little and see if the engine has enough power to move the truck.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

I understand exactly what your saying I'm just listing and describing the symptoms I'm having. Hopefully tomorrow I can get a new air filter and try it in 4x4

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Ok so drove it in 4x4 and doesn't seam any different.... Still lags like a dog. Air filter is now new and no change... I think my distributer is bad... Or the coil? Those are the only original things on it pretty much that havnt been rebuilt. I will report my findings. Also does anyone have an under the hood picture that I can see how the tach plugs into the coil on the sr5?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

The distributor and/coil could be your issues, but I would doubt it - again, why wouldn't it do it in 1st through 3rd? You have to start thinking, "what changes between 3rd and 4th?" That's what has me stumped so I would just start going through all the little BS stuff. If you're going to think that it could be electrical then start going down all the free/easy stuff
-GROUNDS - I'd do that first since bad grounds can be the most finicky thing ever and cause all kinds of random issues. Just go through the engine compartment and start tightening down anything that connects a wire to the frame or body. If the wire looks bad or corroded, replace it.
-Check/gap your plugs
-Check the plug wires (connection and resistance)
-Check the contacts on the distributor cab and rotor (you have access to plenty of parts, you could always swap in another one for a quick test)
-Check the output of the alternator

And again, before I would ever do anything else, the first thing I would do would be to check the compression on that engine...

Here's your tach wire hook up on the factory ignition:

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the help kawa!! I will be doing a bunch of testing this weekend. Thanks for the picture of the tach hookup but I was meaning a picture of it actually plugged into there and going into the cab. I see my connector going off the coil but I'm not sure how to wire it up to the factory gauge

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Grab a wiring diagram - it should at least give you the color and pin out on the instrument panel. There is also a really good thread floating out there somewhere that goes through the SR5 gauge swap rather well.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Just found original window sticker!

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

There's a city called creve-coeur? In french that means heart breaker or bursting heart, strange! Then again around here there is a town with a name that roughly translates to "Precious blood from our god'', weird.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Well finally have figured out the problem on this beast I believe. Turns out the stock rebuilt carb was allowing air to enter into the fuel system somehow. This allowed it to idle fine and at low speeds but there wasn't enough fuel for the high end burn. So I'm desmoging and have a weber 32/36 with LC Engineering adapter, fuel regulator, and fuel gauge all for $450 which I thought was pretty good considering the cost of all these items separately. So I should have it put back together with pictures by Tuesday.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Got weber put on and it runs great!!! Love having a clean engine bay! Pictures to come soon.

83pingpong

Excellent news. I had a weird fail after warmup situation a couple of years ago...thought it had to be electrical. But no, it was the fuel pump all along. So your carb turned out to be the problem. Fuel!

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Ok everyone... So i have been driving the truck and it runs great! But the other day i out in 4x4 just to try it out in my yard and it makes a clunking sound once every revolution. I can tell its every revolution because the noise speeds up with the speed of the vehicle. It sounds like its coming from the front axle itself but i have no clue. Someone said maybe the front driveshaft?? Any thoughts on this issue? I havnt ever had an issues with the 4x4 on these so im lost!

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

Does it do it in a straight line, just when you turn, both? When accelerating only? A lose driveshaft is easy to check, wiggle the drive shaft and check for play in the u-joints. But it could be a birfield or the actual diff, even the t-case.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

could you take a pic of the right hand side of that doc ? ... I'm trying to re create one for my trekker , and cant read some of the words on my original doc

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Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Does it both turning or going straight... I'm hoping it's just the drive shaft but would you be able to hear the u joints at low speeds? Like barely crawling?

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Yes I can get some but it probably won't be for another week till I get the title back from my accountant.

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

Well last summer my front drive shaft had a slightly seized u-joint and I couldn't hear a sound but I felt a vibration, and it got worse when I accelerated. If the sound is coming from the driveshaft the play will be obvious I think

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Hey everyone! Slowly but surely I'm making progress on the truck. I finally figured out why the wipers were not operating at all... I had three wires that fed of the positive battery cable to power the harness running into the cab for the wiper solenoid and going into the wiper motor itself that were not attached very well so I soldered them. After getting power back to the motor I moved the wiper switch and they moved up would stick at the top position. So I removed the arms and found one of the nuts that held the pieces to the hood was very loose and allowing it to travel up and down instead of keeping it tight to move only left and right. So I tightened it and put arms back on snuggly and put on my brand new rainx premium blades and she works beautifully now!!! Also if anyone was wondering... No one makes a premium grade wiper blades for our trucks that I have seen and so I measured the run of the mill cheapo blades and found a set of rainx that was comparable which was a 17in. Since our arms have screws and not clips, pegs, or slides I simply drilled a hole just a hair smaller than the threaded hole in the arm and bolted the wiper to the arm with the factory screws and it looks original! I was very happy with how it turned out. Very very happy to have wipers!! Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket headlight brand or LED alternative because mine are not very bright and they are old and would love new ones but only want to spend the money of they are actually going to work. Any thoughts?