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Just opening this as a way to track all the neat mods and detailed fixes we will make on this truck.
Picked this beauty up today for $1800 CND. A friend of mine came across it out of town and put the payment down for it so it wouldn't disappear on me before I could get there.
Couple facts for you nerds
-22R 2.4L 4 Cyl
-4x4 (obviously)
-5 speed
-4.11 Gears 2 pinion
-Solid Front Axle
-30/9.5/15
List Of Mods/projects you will find in this thread
-Bobbing the box (complete)
22 inches have been removed from the box. Yeah, 22, deal with it. Write up below.
-Fix anything I break (always continuous)
So far I've managed to crack the rad and my buddy showed me a cool fix.
-Tackle Rust/paint (Complete)
Normally this wouldn't be the top of my list of things to do, but the truck is in surprisingly good shape, I don't have anything broken to fix (Yet)
P/O has sprayed primer and nothing else. Rust is starting to show through so I will remove primer, tackle the rust by any means, redo the whole painting process in a forest green.
-Lift the SOB
Sagging Leafs in front of truck, may as well add some inches while replacing. 3in Rough country. Classic. Probably 50 "how to's" on that lift on this site
-Locker.
-High Steer
-Bigger tires.
32 inches probably.
-Some sort of rack
I need some sort of way to bolt down shovels, axes, spare tire, gas, kayaks and whatnot on top.
-Nicotine smell removal.
Are you even reading this anymore?
Last edited by RylanBegley; 05-23-2015 at 12:03 AM.
Do you drive this on the highway at all? If so 32s are gonna suck. I tried it. Maybe with some lightweight rims it would work! But ol steely Dan's and 32s are heavy.
Truck looks awesome by the way. I'm always gawking over 1st gens.
I've cracked my rad... Quite badly actually. Normally I would just JB Weld the sucker but this fissure is 3.5 cm long (like an inch and a bit) so I don`t think JB will play so well. So I will try it anyways while I order a new rad. I`m thinking of ordering something that is just way over the top. Any suggestions?
Also for anyone who cares *Cricket noises here* I'm chipping away at the rust like I said I would. I just don't want to get to crazy with it cause buddy is quite excited about bobbing the box, and I would like to paint after we have ruined the thing. Pics of both events when they have been completed.
Also thanks for the input bootscootboogie, I mostly do city and trails. The only highway I do is 80km/h (47ish MPH) so speed is not really needed. Twisted BC highways man.
How does it have 100 (25gal +) gas tank?
I would like to see how they added additional capacity.
My stock 13 gallon tank sucks
The stock one is gone. and there is just a beast from something.. its certainty not a Toyota tank, that's for sure. I'll post a picture of it later when I'm less lazy
My 82 also has a 25+ capacity tank. It was custom built by an RV shop in the 80's. Very nice construction, excellent stick welds.
Take your radiator to a shop. That may be repairable. If not, just make sure to replace it with a copper core or a SOLID aluminum rad, not one of the aluminum ones with the plastic tanks. Those only last 10-15 years before the tanks start leaking. A serious downgrade from a stock rad.
Thanks for the input jimmy but I beat your 180.00 + free shipping. I was about to order the one you recommended when buddy showed me his trick for "braseing" the rad.
Turns out my radiator issue was not my fault, the crack was an old one and the PO used that self sealing radiator pepper stuff on
This is what the inside of the rad looks like after you use that stuff, it's everywhere and gunks everything up. Useless. If your going to fix something fix it right. I'll do a how to on flushing the rad when I get around to it, but for now...
Stolen from the process of fitting brass waterlines together, brazing just requires some heat, flux and solder. Real basic. Here Rob has started cleaning the work area to add the flux to what he wants to seal. Remember to lower the level of antifreeze before attempting, assuming you still have antifreeze to work with.
Using a small hand torch he heats the brass, and using the heat coming off the metal he melts the solder to where he applied the flux, the solder fills the crack easily and creates a seal that holds back an apparent 260 psi
Not half bad looking, this solid fix took less than 10 minutes.
Little paint and she is just like new. Rob was saying every time he goes wheeling he takes this equipment with him. The torch, flux and solder take up just as much room as a can of beer.
Side note
We bobbed the box and found a sick looking bumper. Removed 22 inches. Structurally she is sound, but she is far from graceful. Will have to do some filling with bondo. I'm heading into a 60 hour work week so when I'm done with that I will do a write up on how she went.
Last edited by RylanBegley; 04-09-2015 at 01:07 AM.
Reason: additions.
Put the rest of the bed on craigslist. I guarantee you someone has a bobbed bed that they want to put back together. Hell you could get a 12 pack for it!!
So obviously we wanted to a perfect job, no room for mucking about. When doing this sort of you want everything to be perfectly lined up so as long as everything is straight it will go together smoothly. So we whipped out the laser guide and did it right. followed the laser with tape so we would have a perfect guide. Now how do you rig up such a sophisticated laser system?
well you duck tape it to a push broom and hope for the best. Best part of this is the broom is long, in the way, and close to the ground, great setup for tripping over.
Remember to keep a clean work area, wear your gloves, and keep all nearby power tools unplugged and blades facing down.
Okay, in all seriousness, it's the easiest, funnest job I've ever done on a truck. get your lines set up, disconnect all your wiring to your lights, some angle grinders, zip disks, sanding wheels, and your welder of choice.
Take your time when your approaching your final cuts, have someone holding the tailgate while the other cuts the final chunks of metal, and with a little luck...
Beaut of a first cut. now on the tailgate we measured to be 6 inches back, and on the second cut we cut 6 inches behind the cross member of the frame so that she will all line up straight...
Only thing we didn't think of was anything below the tailgate would be occupying the same space as the cross member. now we have already butchered this box so a few more cuts wouldn't hurt, removed the mounting bracket for the licence plate with the lights and a few more quick cuts and she was good to go.
And surprisingly she is square. The knuckles of the leaf springs line up nice and tight with the tail gate. This is the part I feel we saved the most time now, One guy welds one side while the other grinds paint and welding marks. then switch sides once the welder has a clean surface to work with. Now I got a little a head with the grinding so I took the opportunity to grind a ton of the body rust.
Now cut off the tail end of the frame to line up with the tailgate, we slapped a bumper on and the end result is both majestic and ugly. 22 inches is what we removed. she needs some serious attention to bondo but structurally she is sound and just look at that exit angle... DANG! Jumped on the tailgate a few times to make sure she was good (The perfect redneck strength test)
This build is really starting to feel awesome, despite the fact the truck looks worse than when I picked her up. However today I finally got around to painting a singular fender.
This pic shows the contrast between the original black I bought her in and the green I picked up. She has got some potential to be turning heads soon.
Last edited by RylanBegley; 04-11-2015 at 02:10 AM.
Rattle-can is the way to go. Depending on how much time and effort you sink into it, you can end up with some great results.
I've seen people get phenomenal results with just $50 spent. I think I'm about $300 into my own. If there's a secret to it, it's all in the prep.
03-18-2015, 11:49 PM
82 pickup 22r Build
