OutlawMike's 1989 4Runner Build-Up Thread
07-27-2009, 12:23 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
OutlawMike's 1989 4Runner Build-Up Thread
Thought I would post up a few pics. Got the rig back on the road yesterday.
Just your basic, Yotatech type build.
Vehicle: 1989 4Runner SR5 V6 3.0 Auto trans.
1.5" BJ spacer front lift (4Crawler)
2" OME Dakar springs in the rear (4wheel Parts)
OME shocks front/rear (4wheel parts)
1" front IFS diff drop kit (4Crawler)
5.29 gears with LockRights front/rear (used diffs off ebay/C-list)
33x10.5 BFG AT KO's (Costco)
15"x8" black Rock Crawler wheels 4.5" backspacing (4Wheel Parts)
Total Chaos idler arm (used from Yotatech for sale board)
Also, new BJ's top bottom in the front.
The lift went pretty smooth, my buddy and I did the rear last Wednesday night. We put the stock 28" tires back on and drove around with 25% lower gearing, just for fun. Man, that 3.0 has a lot of torque with 5.29's and the stock tires.
We tore apart the front end yesterday, got everything bolted in. All of the tie rod ends were in very good shape, no need to replace. The upper ball joints were very loose. The lowers were in good shape, but got replaced anyway. I bought Raybestos Pro Grade BJ's. The hole pattern in the lower BJ's was visibly not in the center of the bosses and you could not thread the bolts into the knuckle. I ended up drilling the holes out to get them to bolt up. Buy Moog, don't buy Raybestos. My bad.
I did not cut up the UCA as per the instructions. I was able to beat back the inner lip on the UCA with a 4 lb sledge, then repainted it. This method worked well for me.
I did break one of the BJ bolts that came in the kit. I had my Snap-On torque wrench set to 30 ft-lbs, as the instructions said. Not sure if the bolt was defective or what. I replaced it with a 5/16" cap head and torqued it to the 25 ft-lbs in the manual.
Other than that, the only hiccup I had was that OME did not include a nut for the top of one of the front shocks. Had to go to the hardware store for two M10x1.25 and double nut the thing.
Oh, I have Downey headers on the 3.0. With the diff drop kit the front driveline hits the exhaust crossover, so, it is two wheel drive right now. I will need to fab a new crossover.
Lift results from wheel well to rim measurements before/after:
Gained an even 2" on each side in the front from the 1.5" ball joint lift. I have not cranked the T-bars yet.
In the rear I picked up 4.5" per side. 2" from the springs, 2.5" of sag tacken back out. The stock rear springs were flat, almost negative arch. With the tires going from 28" to 33", the tailgate came up 7" from the ground.
Impressions:
I am geared about 10% lower now than with 4.10's and the stock tires. Going up a steep, 1 mile hill on my way to work, I do not see much difference in how the truck pulls the hill, about the same. So, my gearing choice seems about right. On the freeway at speed, about 250 RPM higher at 65, not bothersome at all. Remember, I have the automatic trans.
The backspacing and tire choice worked out perfectly. Plenty of clearance to the pinch weld when the wheel is tucked/turned. Also, no issue with the UCA and the sidewall bulge on the inside.
The ride is more firm in the rear, but, the stock rear springs were sagged out and hitting the bump stops. All in all, the ride is good for the purpose. The wife did not complain, so, it passes the test.
Overall, it brings a smile to my face.
Next:
Set the ride height, a little low in the front, have not cranked the T-bars yet.
Alignment
Bracket for rear proportioning valve
Check driveline angles, shim as necessary.
Exhaust crossover mod to get driveline hooked up.
Speedometer correction
Winch bumber
Front OME torsion bars (sitting in the garage)
Rock sliders
Rear bumper, (want a tire carrier, too bad Scotty is not making the Lambo bumper)
Pics below,
Mike
Just your basic, Yotatech type build.
Vehicle: 1989 4Runner SR5 V6 3.0 Auto trans.
1.5" BJ spacer front lift (4Crawler)
2" OME Dakar springs in the rear (4wheel Parts)
OME shocks front/rear (4wheel parts)
1" front IFS diff drop kit (4Crawler)
5.29 gears with LockRights front/rear (used diffs off ebay/C-list)
33x10.5 BFG AT KO's (Costco)
15"x8" black Rock Crawler wheels 4.5" backspacing (4Wheel Parts)
Total Chaos idler arm (used from Yotatech for sale board)
Also, new BJ's top bottom in the front.
The lift went pretty smooth, my buddy and I did the rear last Wednesday night. We put the stock 28" tires back on and drove around with 25% lower gearing, just for fun. Man, that 3.0 has a lot of torque with 5.29's and the stock tires.
We tore apart the front end yesterday, got everything bolted in. All of the tie rod ends were in very good shape, no need to replace. The upper ball joints were very loose. The lowers were in good shape, but got replaced anyway. I bought Raybestos Pro Grade BJ's. The hole pattern in the lower BJ's was visibly not in the center of the bosses and you could not thread the bolts into the knuckle. I ended up drilling the holes out to get them to bolt up. Buy Moog, don't buy Raybestos. My bad.
I did not cut up the UCA as per the instructions. I was able to beat back the inner lip on the UCA with a 4 lb sledge, then repainted it. This method worked well for me.
I did break one of the BJ bolts that came in the kit. I had my Snap-On torque wrench set to 30 ft-lbs, as the instructions said. Not sure if the bolt was defective or what. I replaced it with a 5/16" cap head and torqued it to the 25 ft-lbs in the manual.
Other than that, the only hiccup I had was that OME did not include a nut for the top of one of the front shocks. Had to go to the hardware store for two M10x1.25 and double nut the thing.
Oh, I have Downey headers on the 3.0. With the diff drop kit the front driveline hits the exhaust crossover, so, it is two wheel drive right now. I will need to fab a new crossover.
Lift results from wheel well to rim measurements before/after:
Gained an even 2" on each side in the front from the 1.5" ball joint lift. I have not cranked the T-bars yet.
In the rear I picked up 4.5" per side. 2" from the springs, 2.5" of sag tacken back out. The stock rear springs were flat, almost negative arch. With the tires going from 28" to 33", the tailgate came up 7" from the ground.
Impressions:
I am geared about 10% lower now than with 4.10's and the stock tires. Going up a steep, 1 mile hill on my way to work, I do not see much difference in how the truck pulls the hill, about the same. So, my gearing choice seems about right. On the freeway at speed, about 250 RPM higher at 65, not bothersome at all. Remember, I have the automatic trans.
The backspacing and tire choice worked out perfectly. Plenty of clearance to the pinch weld when the wheel is tucked/turned. Also, no issue with the UCA and the sidewall bulge on the inside.
The ride is more firm in the rear, but, the stock rear springs were sagged out and hitting the bump stops. All in all, the ride is good for the purpose. The wife did not complain, so, it passes the test.
Overall, it brings a smile to my face.
Next:
Set the ride height, a little low in the front, have not cranked the T-bars yet.
Alignment
Bracket for rear proportioning valve
Check driveline angles, shim as necessary.
Exhaust crossover mod to get driveline hooked up.
Speedometer correction
Winch bumber
Front OME torsion bars (sitting in the garage)
Rock sliders
Rear bumper, (want a tire carrier, too bad Scotty is not making the Lambo bumper)
Pics below,
Mike
Last edited by OutlawMike; 01-15-2010 at 11:58 AM.
07-27-2009, 07:56 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Cleveland, TN
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
O yeah that is sweet! I like it alot man. Ride pretty good with the OME?
I personally wouldn't crank the T-bars. But I usually have a bunch of gear in my rigs... IF you are riding lite, then maybe crank them a little. IF you have some tools, spare parts, camping stuff then I'd let it sit a hair higher in the booty.
She's a beaut Clark, a real beaut!
I personally wouldn't crank the T-bars. But I usually have a bunch of gear in my rigs... IF you are riding lite, then maybe crank them a little. IF you have some tools, spare parts, camping stuff then I'd let it sit a hair higher in the booty.
She's a beaut Clark, a real beaut!
07-27-2009, 09:58 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks,
The ride is firm, but not too firm. I expect the springs will soften a little over time. Right now the ride in the front is the same as stock, as far as I can feel. The rear rides a little high, but, as you say, with some gear in there it will settle out. I need to put the spare in it, that will add a bit of weight. Also, I plan on adding some rear armor/bumper/tire carrier, that will settle it a bit also. For the front, I want to put a winch bumper up there, so that will drop the front a bit. I am willing to crank 1/2" into the T-bars, but no more than that.
Drove it some more tonight, the locker will take some getting used to. It talks to me a bit back there, letting me know it is there and working.
Mike
The ride is firm, but not too firm. I expect the springs will soften a little over time. Right now the ride in the front is the same as stock, as far as I can feel. The rear rides a little high, but, as you say, with some gear in there it will settle out. I need to put the spare in it, that will add a bit of weight. Also, I plan on adding some rear armor/bumper/tire carrier, that will settle it a bit also. For the front, I want to put a winch bumper up there, so that will drop the front a bit. I am willing to crank 1/2" into the T-bars, but no more than that.
Drove it some more tonight, the locker will take some getting used to. It talks to me a bit back there, letting me know it is there and working.
Mike
07-27-2009, 10:06 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
5 Posts
Thats a pretty sweet setup. Is it a little short with the 5.29s or is it good?
I looked at the undercarrige and the first thing I said to myself is "This guys gotta be in Cali" haha.
I looked at the undercarrige and the first thing I said to myself is "This guys gotta be in Cali" haha.
07-28-2009, 12:11 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
For all the things I absolutely hate about living in CA, having a rig that is not rusting away on me is not one of them. That really doesn't make up for all the other BS in this state.
Anyway, not sure what you mean by "short" for the 5.29's? Overall, I am 10% lower geared with the 33's and 5.29's than the 28's with 4.10's. I am running 10% higher RPM on the freeway. I have the automatic, which is a power drain on the 3.0, which is why I decided to go with 5.29's. Zuk recommended this setup when I contacted him about setting up some gears. I ended up finding both diffs used with the lockers in them.
The rig pulls just about like it did before. The tires/wheels weigh 27 lbs more than the stock aluminum wheels/tires. So, the 10% reduction overall is making up for the 27 lbs more rotation inertia.
Mike
07-28-2009, 12:12 PM
#6
Registered User
Overall, I am 10% lower geared with the 33's and 5.29's than the 28's with 4.10's. I am running 10% higher RPM on the freeway. I have the automatic, which is a power drain on the 3.0, which is why I decided to go with 5.29's. Zuk recommended this setup when I contacted him about setting up some gears. I ended up finding both diffs used with the lockers in them.
The rig pulls just about like it did before. The tires/wheels weigh 27 lbs more than the stock aluminum wheels/tires. So, the 10% reduction overall is making up for the 27 lbs more rotation inertia.
Mike
07-28-2009, 01:58 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Trending Topics
07-28-2009, 04:22 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
A fellow ME I take it? Good for you, I know so many ME's from work and school who have never lifted a wrench to their own vehicles. Cars and trucks are one big mechanical system, an ME wonderland of gears, bearings, torque, rotational velocity, what is not to love?
But, sometimes I get lost just analyzing what the Japanese engineer was trying to accomplish. Better sometimes to just turn the wrenches and get it done.
Mike
But, sometimes I get lost just analyzing what the Japanese engineer was trying to accomplish. Better sometimes to just turn the wrenches and get it done.
Mike
07-28-2009, 06:39 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
5 Posts
Anyway, not sure what you mean by "short" for the 5.29's? Overall, I am 10% lower geared with the 33's and 5.29's than the 28's with 4.10's. I am running 10% higher RPM on the freeway. I have the automatic, which is a power drain on the 3.0, which is why I decided to go with 5.29's. Zuk recommended this setup when I contacted him about setting up some gears. I ended up finding both diffs used with the lockers in them.
The rig pulls just about like it did before. The tires/wheels weigh 27 lbs more than the stock aluminum wheels/tires. So, the 10% reduction overall is making up for the 27 lbs more rotation inertia.
Mike
The rig pulls just about like it did before. The tires/wheels weigh 27 lbs more than the stock aluminum wheels/tires. So, the 10% reduction overall is making up for the 27 lbs more rotation inertia.
Mike
07-28-2009, 07:11 PM
#13
Registered User
You should be with that monster you built! 
Outlaw,
Man I wish mine was that clean to begin with. I dropped 1500$ on a rig that a ranchers kid wanted to wheel in and have been chasing issues for a while.
Since Big Blue didn't post up a pic of his (and I'm a picture whore) here is a shot of my first gen runner.
Day of purchase.
After a mod or two
Blue you want to get in on this?
Outlaw,
Man I wish mine was that clean to begin with. I dropped 1500$ on a rig that a ranchers kid wanted to wheel in and have been chasing issues for a while.
Since Big Blue didn't post up a pic of his (and I'm a picture whore) here is a shot of my first gen runner.
Day of purchase.
After a mod or two
Blue you want to get in on this?
Last edited by Junkers88; 07-28-2009 at 07:18 PM.
