OutlawMike's 1989 4Runner Build-Up Thread

[OutlawMike]

Thought I would post up a few pics. Got the rig back on the road yesterday. Just your basic, Yotatech type build. Vehicle: 1989 4Runner SR5 V6 3.0 Auto trans. 1.5" BJ spacer front lift (4Crawler) 2" OME Dakar springs in the rear (4wheel Parts) OME shocks front/rear (4wheel parts) 1" front IFS diff drop kit (4Crawler) 5.29 gears with LockRights front/rear (used diffs off ebay/C-list) 33x10.5 BFG AT KO's (Costco) 15"x8" black Rock Crawler wheels 4.5" backspacing (4Wheel Parts) Total Chaos idler arm (used from Yotatech for sale board) Also, new BJ's top bottom in the front. The lift went pretty smooth, my buddy and I did the rear last Wednesday night. We put the stock 28" tires back on and drove around with 25% lower gearing, just for fun. Man, that 3.0 has a lot of torque with 5.29's and the stock tires. We tore apart the front end yesterday, got everything bolted in. All of the tie rod ends were in very good shape, no need to replace. The upper ball joints were very loose. The lowers were in good shape, but got replaced anyway. I bought Raybestos Pro Grade BJ's. The hole pattern in the lower BJ's was visibly not in the center of the bosses and you could not thread the bolts into the knuckle. I ended up drilling the holes out to get them to bolt up. Buy Moog, don't buy Raybestos. My bad. I did not cut up the UCA as per the instructions. I was able to beat back the inner lip on the UCA with a 4 lb sledge, then repainted it. This method worked well for me. I did break one of the BJ bolts that came in the kit. I had my Snap-On torque wrench set to 30 ft-lbs, as the instructions said. Not sure if the bolt was defective or what. I replaced it with a 5/16" cap head and torqued it to the 25 ft-lbs in the manual. Other than that, the only hiccup I had was that OME did not include a nut for the top of one of the front shocks. Had to go to the hardware store for two M10x1.25 and double nut the thing. Oh, I have Downey headers on the 3.0. With the diff drop kit the front driveline hits the exhaust crossover, so, it is two wheel drive right now. I will need to fab a new crossover. Lift results from wheel well to rim measurements before/after: Gained an even 2" on each side in the front from the 1.5" ball joint lift. I have not cranked the T-bars yet. In the rear I picked up 4.5" per side. 2" from the springs, 2.5" of sag tacken back out. The stock rear springs were flat, almost negative arch. With the tires going from 28" to 33", the tailgate came up 7" from the ground. Impressions: I am geared about 10% lower now than with 4.10's and the stock tires. Going up a steep, 1 mile hill on my way to work, I do not see much difference in how the truck pulls the hill, about the same. So, my gearing choice seems about right. On the freeway at speed, about 250 RPM higher at 65, not bothersome at all. Remember, I have the automatic trans. The backspacing and tire choice worked out perfectly. Plenty of clearance to the pinch weld when the wheel is tucked/turned. Also, no issue with the UCA and the sidewall bulge on the inside. The ride is more firm in the rear, but, the stock rear springs were sagged out and hitting the bump stops. All in all, the ride is good for the purpose. The wife did not complain, so, it passes the test. Overall, it brings a smile to my face. Next: Set the ride height, a little low in the front, have not cranked the T-bars yet. Alignment Bracket for rear proportioning valve Check driveline angles, shim as necessary. Exhaust crossover mod to get driveline hooked up. Speedometer correction Winch bumber Front OME torsion bars (sitting in the garage) Rock sliders Rear bumper, (want a tire carrier, too bad Scotty is not making the Lambo bumper) Pics below, Mike [IMG][/IMG]

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[TurnerR]

O yeah that is sweet! I like it alot man. Ride pretty good with the OME?

I personally wouldn't crank the T-bars. But I usually have a bunch of gear in my rigs... IF you are riding lite, then maybe crank them a little. IF you have some tools, spare parts, camping stuff then I'd let it sit a hair higher in the booty.

She's a beaut Clark, a real beaut!

[OutlawMike]

Thanks,

The ride is firm, but not too firm. I expect the springs will soften a little over time. Right now the ride in the front is the same as stock, as far as I can feel. The rear rides a little high, but, as you say, with some gear in there it will settle out. I need to put the spare in it, that will add a bit of weight. Also, I plan on adding some rear armor/bumper/tire carrier, that will settle it a bit also. For the front, I want to put a winch bumper up there, so that will drop the front a bit. I am willing to crank 1/2" into the T-bars, but no more than that.

Drove it some more tonight, the locker will take some getting used to. It talks to me a bit back there, letting me know it is there and working.

Mike

[toylocost]

Thats a pretty sweet setup. Is it a little short with the 5.29s or is it good?

I looked at the undercarrige and the first thing I said to myself is "This guys gotta be in Cali" haha.

[OutlawMike]

Originally Posted by toylocost

Thats a pretty sweet setup. Is it a little short with the 5.29s or is it good?

I looked at the undercarrige and the first thing I said to myself is "This guys gotta be in Cali" haha.

For all the things I absolutely hate about living in CA, having a rig that is not rusting away on me is not one of them. That really doesn't make up for all the other BS in this state.

Anyway, not sure what you mean by "short" for the 5.29's? Overall, I am 10% lower geared with the 33's and 5.29's than the 28's with 4.10's. I am running 10% higher RPM on the freeway. I have the automatic, which is a power drain on the 3.0, which is why I decided to go with 5.29's. Zuk recommended this setup when I contacted him about setting up some gears. I ended up finding both diffs used with the lockers in them.

The rig pulls just about like it did before. The tires/wheels weigh 27 lbs more than the stock aluminum wheels/tires. So, the 10% reduction overall is making up for the 27 lbs more rotation inertia.

Mike

[Junkers88]

Originally Posted by OutlawMike

Overall, I am 10% lower geared with the 33's and 5.29's than the 28's with 4.10's. I am running 10% higher RPM on the freeway. I have the automatic, which is a power drain on the 3.0, which is why I decided to go with 5.29's. Zuk recommended this setup when I contacted him about setting up some gears. I ended up finding both diffs used with the lockers in them.

The rig pulls just about like it did before. The tires/wheels weigh 27 lbs more than the stock aluminum wheels/tires. So, the 10% reduction overall is making up for the 27 lbs more rotation inertia.

Mike

Very well thought out!!!

[OutlawMike]

Originally Posted by Junkers88

Very well thought out!!!

Thanks,

The curse of being a Mechanical Engineer, always over thinking every little thing I do, rather than just doing it.

Mike

[RustBucket]

Originally Posted by OutlawMike

Thanks,

The curse of being a Mechanical Engineer, always over thinking every little thing I do, rather than just doing it.

Mike

I hear ya!

[OutlawMike]

Originally Posted by RustBucket

I hear ya!

A fellow ME I take it? Good for you, I know so many ME's from work and school who have never lifted a wrench to their own vehicles. Cars and trucks are one big mechanical system, an ME wonderland of gears, bearings, torque, rotational velocity, what is not to love?

But, sometimes I get lost just analyzing what the Japanese engineer was trying to accomplish. Better sometimes to just turn the wrenches and get it done.


Mike

[toylocost]

Originally Posted by OutlawMike

For all the things I absolutely hate about living in CA, having a rig that is not rusting away on me is not one of them. That really doesn't make up for all the other BS in this state.

EXACTLY how I feel about this place.

Originally Posted by OutlawMike

Anyway, not sure what you mean by "short" for the 5.29's? Overall, I am 10% lower geared with the 33's and 5.29's than the 28's with 4.10's. I am running 10% higher RPM on the freeway. I have the automatic, which is a power drain on the 3.0, which is why I decided to go with 5.29's. Zuk recommended this setup when I contacted him about setting up some gears. I ended up finding both diffs used with the lockers in them.

The rig pulls just about like it did before. The tires/wheels weigh 27 lbs more than the stock aluminum wheels/tires. So, the 10% reduction overall is making up for the 27 lbs more rotation inertia.

Mike

What RPMs are you turning at 55, 65, 75?

[BigBluePile]

Great lookin rig man!!! Of course, I am bias towards first gens!!!

[RustBucket]

Yep, technically will be a fellow ME on Saturday (Georgia Tech graduation).

I agree, the 4Runner is just one big engineering project to me.

[Junkers88]

Originally Posted by BigBluePile

Great lookin rig man!!! Of course, I am bias towards first gens!!!

You should be with that monster you built!

Outlaw,
Man I wish mine was that clean to begin with. I dropped 1500$ on a rig that a ranchers kid wanted to wheel in and have been chasing issues for a while.


Since Big Blue didn't post up a pic of his (and I'm a picture whore) here is a shot of my first gen runner.

Day of purchase.


After a mod or two


Blue you want to get in on this?

[BigBluePile]

oh I guess...

[BigBluePile]

From this:


To this:

[RMA]

Outlaw mike thats a great looking runner!!!

Big Blue your missing a pic..

[BigBluePile]

I am?

[RMA]

arent you I only see one pic or is that all you were posting

From this : (no Pic)

To THis : (your in the mud)

[BigBluePile]

hmmmm, no I see two pics. Strange.

Can you see it below:

[AxleIke]

SICK truck!!! Very cool....Loving the TC idler arm, hows that working for you?

Very clean! Nice job.

[Yopar]

Very nice work on the truck and similar to the work I did on my '87. I didn't do the diff drop, but relaxed the torsion bars back to stock ride height in the front, to keep the CV angle stock. The rear sits a little high when the truck is empty, but settles down nicely when loaded. The OME shocks are awesome, love the ride they give! If I put a bumper w/winch on the front, I will probably have to tighten the torsion bars back up a little.

[OutlawMike]

Originally Posted by toylocost

EXACTLY how I feel about this place.



What RPMs are you turning at 55, 65, 75?

I will get more info this weekend,

My speedo is off right now, but on Sunday my buddy took his stock '98 Runner out with me on the freeway. He drove at 65 miles per hour, my speedo was reading right around 72 and the RPM was about 2550 or so. Before, when I drove the rig in stock form at 65 miles per hour, the RPM was at 2300. I really do not notice any more engine noise than before and it drives good with the 5.29's in overdrive. If you drop it out of overdrive, it is definitely louder, but pulls the hills well.

Mike

[OutlawMike]

Originally Posted by AxleIke

SICK truck!!! Very cool....Loving the TC idler arm, hows that working for you?

Very clean! Nice job.

I never could have bought that thing new, but it showed up on the marketplace board here on Yotatech, so I picked it up. The thing is built like a brick house, a nice piece of work. It bolted right up to the factory mounts and one additional, un-used threaded hole in the bottom fo the frame rail. I had to drill out the relay rod to 5/8's thru, the TC idler arm does not use the taper. Since I had the front end tore apart anyway, it was no big deal to pop off the pitman and put the relay rod on the drill press.

It bolted right in, does not hit anything, and does not make any noise, so far so good. Now, I need to wheel the rig to see if it breaks, but, I think the frame would brake first, that thing is a monster. Plus it has the cool TC laser cut into the gusset, and that is worth at least the price of admission. Ha!!

Mike

[A.Wilson013]

Originally Posted by OutlawMike

Thanks,

The curse of being a Mechanical Engineer, always over thinking every little thing I do, rather than just doing it.

Mike

when I saw the rotation inertia, I thought I was reading a write-up from one of my workers. I know what you mean about over thinking everything. Beautiful vehicle. I am a bit envious.

Alex

[OutlawMike]

Originally Posted by Yopar

Very nice work on the truck and similar to the work I did on my '87. I didn't do the diff drop, but relaxed the torsion bars back to stock ride height in the front, to keep the CV angle stock. The rear sits a little high when the truck is empty, but settles down nicely when loaded. The OME shocks are awesome, love the ride they give! If I put a bumper w/winch on the front, I will probably have to tighten the torsion bars back up a little.

I have the OME torsion bars in my garage waiting for an ARB bull bar. I'm willing to crank a little more lift into the front if the back does not settle out a bit more. The photos do not show it, but the ass end sits a bit high for my taste. You are correct about putting some weight in the rear and everything leveling out. Fun, fun, fun, so many possibilities, so little money.

Thank you for the compliment,

Mike