navyRedneck's 1985 Pickup Build-Up Thread

[navyredneck]

Well, once my wife came home tonight (and was standing by to tow me back with the 4runner) I took the truck for my first ride in it (minus hood, grill, rear bumper, and license plate and plus exhaust leak, loud rattle from the exhaust sleeve that needs to be welded, and many other miscellaneous rattles). It rides like a 2 horse wagon. The springs are definitely shot. The engine has plenty of power, though. I thought the distance req'd to shift gears was much longer than my last stick shift (back in 97 I had a 94 Ford Probe). It drove good, though. I only killed it twice and the clutch seemed as good as new. Definitely need to get the timing done, though, and I need to find one last exhaust stud to get the manifold on there tight and stop that exhaust leak. Everytime I braked to a stop at a stop sign and started back up, the fumes would flare up something incredible. May end up getting the carb professionally adjusted by my friend who owns a shop. Based on how long it sat in the PO's driveway I bet the carb could use a good adjustment. I really need this thing running good since I'm making it my DD soon.

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[whitetaco02]

hey man, i may have an extra exhaust stud laying around from where i got my headers. i am sure it would fit your set up. PM me if you are interested and I will look and see if i could find them. when they installed my headers, they took the studs out that came out easily and replaced them with the new ones. the ones that were difficult to get out we left in there. i know i have like 3 or 4 left i just have to find them. let me know.

[navyredneck]

Well, I found a bolt of the correct size and tried to use it on that lost hole for the manifold. I got it down to 25 ft-lbs (FSM says 33) and it stripped. Torque dropped off to nothing. Now I'm in a real fix and don't know what to do. The exhaust has not been rewelded back in so I can remove that. The question is how to get a drill in there to drill it out and install a helicoil (something I've never done). I'm thinking:

pull the fender (dunno how to do that)
pull the engine

A friend suggested I drive it like that but I really hate to drive around with something broke. Particularly because that will force me to reweld the exhaust back to the cat which will make this job much harder to do in the future.

It runs and doesen't make that many fumes but I think this will get worse as it will probably burn up the gasket in that area. Opinions or suggestions?

(photobucket not currently loading up so no pictures)

good thread here that describes similar situation:
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.p...t+exhaust+head
I think it's talking about the exact same bolt in fact.

I'd like to install the helicoil but not sure how to get a drill in there. Anyone have experience pulling a fender?

[4Crawler]

Right angle drill may work, or use a larger size bolt, for 10mm, a 7/16" bolt works well, run a bottoming tap into the hole to make threads. Or you may be able to get a longer metric bolt to grab some threads deeper in the hole.

[navyredneck]

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

Been tearing apart my own perfectly good front axle all weekend to make it bomb proof...ain't wrenching great...that smell of grease and oil ground into your skin so no matter how much you wash it is there for a while...sore arms...shop looks like a tornado hit it...any of this ring a bell?

My garage hasn't come clean yet but this will help:



I dropped it off today!

As soon as I decide what to do about this manifold bolt I can get rid of the engine hoist.

Pic of the bolt:

[navyredneck]

Working on a bumper. Thread is here:

http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=110331

Started tearing down my Warn Winch today. It's an old MX6085 that they stopped making in the 80's.

Rolled off all the old cable. Getting new synthetic rope from Rockstomper in the near future:


Took off safety bolts and the gears look good (nice surprise). This means I probably won't mess with them.


Putting gloves over the ends to keep debris out of the spool:


This looks like a weld repair which doesen't make sense to me? Any ideas?


Everything stripped and ready to paint. Using ceramic paint on the bars and Rustoleum on the spool. I tried to drill through some ceramic paint Friday night that had been baked on. I destroyed 2 drill bits in the process.


Primed:


Done for the night:

[navyredneck]

Finished painting the winch today. Based on the internals that I saw I'm not gonna do anything but paint and clean. Here's the final picture before I put synthetic line on it (ordering that tomorrow from rockstomper.com). I only painted the parts that were really rusted. The gear end didn't have much rust and had some nice stickers on it so I left it as is.

Oh, I did uncover a label plate which I did not repaint:
MRV-B-7
N16543
build date of 11-85 (this thing is as old as the truck!)



FIY for any engine gurus, I got word from Oregon Engine Rebuilders that my core had an early 22r head on it. Something about the head was designed to be used with domed pistons. By using the early 80's head with the 1985 block the compression ratio ended up being 7:1 instead of the 9:1 or so. John seemed surprised that it even ran with it like that. He said to call back on Monday and he could tell me how bad the crankshaft bearings were (where I think I had the rod knock coming from).

[navyredneck]

Rockstomper:

I sent an email to Scott with a picture and dimensions of the spool on my winch. He replied that I could fit 5/16x80 or 1/4x125 of rope. I'd rather have the 9,200 lb rope since more than that will probably pull my truck apart. I'd rather have the rope give than the winch or truck.



So today I ordered 1/4x125' of rope, a small treesaver, and 2 shackles for the custom rear bumper I hope to start soon.

govt.mule:

Mike has a yard full of yotas somewhere and is sending me a box of goodies. Getting a rear window motor and regulator for my 94 4runner and power steering and ifs box for the pickup plus an ac hose that the pickup is missing.

My mechanic friend here tells me that if I get the hoses connected and buy a new accumulator from Autozone that he thinks he can get the ac unit running on R-134. I don't care if its R-134 or R-134a as long as the ac puts out some cool air. The summers here are hot and I drive 45 mins one way a day during the week.

Oh, and update on the truck. The same mechanic friend above found a helicoil already in the head. He removed that and installed a bigger stud. Currently getting the new cat welded in to finish the exhaust. I'm excited that I should be driving the truck tomorrow to work and hopefully to turkey hunting on Saturday!

[tampabayota]

were still on for the 31st right!!

[navyredneck]

Originally Posted by tampabayota

were still on for the 31st right!!

Yep, I will PM add'l info a day or two before.

[navyredneck]

Engine is still running really rich. Actually kinda worrying me as I read somewhere today that an overrich condition can wash the cylinder walls of oil and damage your engine... I hate reading about something that I've been doing and finding out that I could be damaging my engine. (oh, and that's in addition to clogging my brand new cat with the over-rich fuel mixture)

The AARP looks to be in good shape (no gas in the vacuum line). The float looks empty and I couldn't see gas trickling in the butterfly valve while the truck was running. The truck also diesels when I kill the ignition. I'm thinking of trying to rebuild the carb and if that fails, then order a rebuilt one from http://www.recarbco.com. I called today and the guy there said it would cost me 230 or so (I forget actual number). I really don't want to drop that much money into the carb but I really need the truck running.

I tried the 4wd (once offroad) for the first time and it worked well. I can get it in 4low but it jumps out after I shift to 2nd gear. I think one of the PO messed up the throw length when he installed the 3" lift.

Did I mention earlier that the suspension is completely shot? I can't imagine a 2 horse wagon being any worse. I almost got motion sickness from it. Even small bumps offroad led to 3 or 4 up and downs while the shocks dampened out. Although the radio was off I could almost hear "Oregon Trail" music playing... I think the 4runner has really spoiled me. It's bigger with nice coil springs in the rear and the IFS helps smoothen out bumps in the front. Toyota wasn't as far off shifting to IFS as I sometimes think. Definitely need to get a new suspension and then compare it. I know the sfa contributes to some of it but I bet better shocks and springs will fix a lot of it.

Yesterday I decided to try and break the bolts free on the front and rear diff. I got the front fill bolt free and checked the oil level. No oil visible on my finger. I kind of expected that so I went ahead and drained and refilled it then instead of waiting. I think the knuckles are leaking which reminds me once again that I need to rebuild the front axle soon. Rear diff oil was in pretty good shape but I replaced it as well. No significant amount of metal shavings in either axle so that was nice to find.

[Just Learning]

dang man for a guy with no mechanical expertise your doing a hella of a job, you could try a weber carb if you legally can if so its a weber 32/34 much less complicated

[navyredneck]

Thanks, Just Learning. I spend a lot of time fixing my mistakes, though. For example, I figured out why I stripped out that exhaust manifold stud. I put anti-seize on it and didn't know to back off of the torque when torqueing it down. So I tried to take it to the factory spec of 33 ft-lbs with anti-seize on it and stripped it out at 25. I should have backed the 33 down about 40% or so which would have meant a max spec of 20 ft-lbs...

I don't know much about carbs but there's a good bit of discussion here on which carb is best and it seems that the Aisin stock carbs are the most reliable. That's why I'm currently only considering a stock carb. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, though. I did send a PM to kyle_22r as he seems to be one of the guys that knows the most about carbs on this forum.

My current idea is this. I know a guy with a broken down 87 2wd yota pickup 22r in a junkyard in back of his shop. I'm not sure what's wrong with it but I'm gonna ask him to sell me the carb and some other parts off of it. From the toyota EPC that I have it looks like the 87 and 85 carbs are identical. I'm gonna guess this is because they were already using EFI by 85 and didn't waste any more money on developing the carb further. That means I can take his 87 carb and attempt a rebuild using a rebuild kit ($30 or so) and then test it out on my pickup. If I mess it up badly, then I go back to my original running-rich carb so I can drive the truck to a shop. Oh, and it looks like I will need to buy a vacuum hand-pump to do some of the testing.

Here's the EPC schematics comparing the 87 to the 85:
85 carb http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...203/85carb.jpg
87 carb http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...203/87carb.jpg
85 carb blownup http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...arbblownup.jpg
87 carb blownup http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...arbblownup.jpg

[navyredneck]

Got the carb but they are not exactly the same... The 87 carb has a different plug so I'm splicing the old plug into the new carb using disconnects in case I need to go back.

The 85 carb (rebuilt by a shop) is also missing the idle-up diaphragm (per the FSM) and someone also drilled out the idle mixture adjusting screw... The 85 carb also has some federal emission garbage on it.

85 on the left and 87 on the right


forgot to photoshop it first but you can easily see the drilled out plug which is different from the 87 carb on the right:


Oh, and I was completely out to lunch yesterday when I was looking at the 85 carb on the truck:
float sightglass has gas in it with the level at the very top
passenger side butterfly valve has gas trickling down it which is causing my too-rich condition
AAP does have gas in the vacuum hose. Not a lot but too much per the searches I've done here

Tomorrow I hope to get the 87 carb installed and see if it runs... Maybe I should get the fire extinguisher from the house first. Reminds me of the time I was soldering some pipes under the bathroom sink and caught some tape on fire. It didn't help that the wood the cabinet was made out of was already smoldering. Anyway, my wife has already seen it all...

[navyredneck]

I finished moving the wires and then I went on a hunt for the gasket to connect the carb to the intake manifold. Neither Autozone nor Advanced Auto Parts or Parks had the gasket. Of course, Parks, the last one, was able to tell me that Fel-pro only sells that gasket in the rebuild kit for $30. So I reused the old gasket.

Anyway, everything connected back up except for the dashpot system (also called the idle-up diaphragm per the diagram in the FSM). That was not on the carb I pulled from the truck but it's supposed to be per the FSM which says all Manual Transmission trucks should have it. Anyway, I left it on the carb but I didn't have the air filter and hose to connect to it. I guess I'll have to revisit my friend's junkyard to take that off the truck as well. For now it looked like it wouldn't prevent the truck from running per the FSM so I left it as is.

I tried to crank the truck, checking the sightglass every so often. It finally filled up to the middle and still wouldn't crank so I shot some carb start into the intake. Then the truck fired up. I still noticed lots of gas pouring from the passenger side butterfly valve but that eventually stopped as I continued hooking up vacuum lines. The truck sounds much better now although I still think I need a carb adjustment badly. I'll probably take it to my mechanic friend and see what he thinks. So the truck is running again!

My parts came in from rockstomper (new winch line, shackes for my bumper build, and treesaver). Warn also sent me some papers for my 22 year old winch. They included some troubleshooting stuff to make sure the winch is working good. I'm looking forward to mounting the winch and making sure its working good. That'll be after I get a weld repair on the bullguard and pick up some new grade 8 bolts.

I also picked up a 12" long receiver blank from Northern Tools (awesome store!!) for $20. Between that and the shackle mounts from Rockstomper I'm now ready to order some steel. My welding buddy said he gets a discount on steel via his company so maybe that will help out, too. I'm still unsure how much bracing to do in the back to make sure the receiver is strong enough.

Back to this thread to get that question answered:
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=110331

[tampabayota]

thanks again rich it was nice meeting a fellow yotatecer. we got home around 8 pm ,it looks like it will all fit, ill post pixs when done.

[navyredneck]

I'm still all messed up here. Here's what I know (or think I know) now:

I'm NOT supposed to have the idle-up diaphragm dash pot system. It does say "manual transmission only" in the 85 FSM but it's under the EFI section and I have a carb... So I need to take that off and go back to the original carb design that I pulled off.

I also decided to trace all the vacuum lines using the FSM diagram. Guess what I found? Yep, two problems:



1. Shown by the pink line on the diagram. BVSV reed valve top plug is broken off and plugged and so is the vacuum line that was supposed to be on it. I did take it off and boil it to make sure the reed valve opened like it's supposed to. I then rigged it to make it work (similar to the VSV valve on my 4runner). Same fix that I got off of this forum somewhere else. I used a plastic T-fitting that I sanded down to plug into the port and the made it permanent using super-glue. The fitting is 1/8" by 1/8". It works great on the rubber hose but needs sanding to plug into the reed valve. If you don't expoxy it it will come off later. I learned that from the 4runner when it quit at a redlight on me...



2. Vacuum hoses were incorrectly plugged in. Shown by the orange lines. They were swapped. Fixed those in 10 seconds.

[Just Learning]

keep the post and pic coming your doing a good job

[drew303]

The diagram above is of a non-cali model 22R carb

FYI

there were a lot of different model carbs made for the 22R but two basic models, a cali and a non-cali ... its emission stuff.

MY 87 4x4 has the non-cali and our 84 2wd has the cali..

if you need some help gettn' running I've helped some others on here with their carbs. I've rebuilt the cali model and had mine apart and back together as well.

[drew303]

went back and read a few more of your posts

running rich? I had same issue and rebuilding the carb fixed it. Theirs a thing called a power piston and power valve in our carbs, powervalve is @ the bottom of the gas bowl and the piston is at the top. They can get gunked up.

rebuild kits come with a new power valve but you can just clean the piston

If the float sticks it can cause gas to poor in and a flood the carb.


I'd get that $30 kit and tear the carb apart, get some carb cleaner few cans an egg carton (Great for keeping track of the parts) and clean it out. Replace the fuel filter while you're at it.

[navyredneck]

Drew303, thanks for the offer of help. Currently the truck is still at my friend's garage. I told him to take his time so I can slow the bleeding wallet problem the truck is causing me. He's trying to get the AC to hold a vacuum and charge in freon. He also said he would take a look at the carb and give me a direction to go. In the meantime I'm counting pennies to see how to pay for a new suspension.

I've decided to go with ARB OME because this will be a hunting vehicle, not rock climbing, and I wanted a bolt-on suspension because it's a daily driver and I wanted to minimize both the resulting lift and fabrication required.

Here's what I know I need so far (per Buddy and Nils at ARB):
CS008FA front springs, left and right. These are soft springs.
CS009R rear springs, left and right. These are medium springs.
N84 soft valve nitro shocks for the front
N85 firm valve nitro shocks for the rear

This is based on running a bullbar and winch in front and a camper shell (eventually) and hunting supplies and a steel rear bumper with both DD and offroad driving. This is good for up to 110 lbs in the front and anything between 0 and GVM in the rear. Buddy also told me that if the rear is still too firm that I could take out a leaf.

My biggest problem until now has been shipping since the only warehouse that I could order these from has been on the West Coast ($150 shipping bill). I talked to Buddy King at ARB today and he said that they are ready to buy and build a warehouse on the East Coast but it would be 6 months until ready to start shipping parts from it. It would be nice to wait until then to save a few dollars but I'm looking at restarting hog trapping by the beginning of next month. The 4runner can't go down the trails that I need to get down so the truck needs to get finished. (I'm tired of carrying 5 gallon buckets of corn and diesel for over 200 yards and it's even worse if you actually get to kill something that far in)

I think I have one place that charges flat-rate to all 48 states and one that offers free shipping. Between those 2 I think I can save $100 or so. Here are the two sites I'm looking at:
http://www.truckaddons.com (free shipping over $200)
http://www.torasport.com (flat rate to 48 states)

I'm also ordering cheap poly bushings, trailgear greaseable bolts, and an anti-inversion kit from ARB (Nils from tech told me that I needed that for the rear). I hope to reuse my shackles. He also said to check the spring perches as many get beat up and can actually cause the leaf springs to bend around the axle. He said the cheapest fix was to grind down the edges and weld on 3/16" steel plate for new perches.

Not sure about ordering the steering stabilizer yet. When I order all this will probably depend on the the repair bill to get the AC system working (fingers crossed that it will even work since I'm using some junkyard parts and who knows how long ago the compressor has actually worked). He's confident he can covert it over to R-134A since I bought a new accumulator.

All thoughts, suggestions, or criticisms are appreciated.

[navyredneck]

I ordered a reman'd carb from National Carburetors for $200. It's running but still not as smoothly as I'd like. My evaluation on them is still out as I still need to get the carb adjusted a little finer.

I also finally installed a rear view mirror although now my dome light doesn't work. I worked on it for 30 minutes as the electrical part is really, really simple. For the life of me I can't figure it out. I tried sanding the contacts to get better electrical contact and I tried shorting past some of the stuff. I guess I need an electrical troubleshooter to get that fixed.

AC is still messed up as both the accumulator I ordered and the junkyard hose don't match up to my AC system. Probably gonna get a custom hose built and get autozone to swap out the accumulator for a generic one with the right fittings.

I also have a friend selling me a camper shell. It looks a little rough but it will do the job (which is locking up my guns and hunting gear when I'm in the woods). For $25 I'm not too concerned how it looks.


Next problem facing me is one that I need some help on. I'm hoping that 4crawler will respond as I think his fix here will take care of it:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...wShifter.shtml

The problem is that every time I shift into 4 low and shift to 2nd gear the tranny gear shifter knocks the transfer case shifter out of 4 low. Pretty frustrating since I need 4 low to run those 33" tires that I'm putting on soon. (4.88 gears to come later as cash is available).

My problem is that someone redneck-rigged it before me and I'm not sure that the 4crawler fix may only work for the un-rigged setup.

Here are the pictures showing my problem:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...204/1st4hi.jpg
1st 2 hi with no problems going all the way to 5th and reverse

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...204/2nd4hi.jpg
2nd 2 hi

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...204/rev4hi.jpg
reverse 2 hi See where someone already did a redneck job cutting the sheet metal after the 3" body lift? This tells me that something is already messed up.

Now shift into 4 low
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...04/1st4low.jpg
1st gear in 4 low


2nd gear in 4 low. It is okay here but when the boots are installed this is where the tranny shifter forces the transfer shifter out of 4 low.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...%204/boots.jpg
picture of my boots in case they are the problem. Dunno if this is factory standard or not.

[ocdropzone]

Just found your thread, for a Squid you are doing a helluva good job. I have found a couple of fixes for my truck just reading what you have done...
great detail in your thread.

[4Crawler]

Try flipping one or both shifter bases 180 degrees on the tranny or t-case and see if that works any better. Bend the shifter(s) so they don't hit. Or put on a short throw kit on one or both. Will make it so they don't move as far back and forth and are less likely to make contact.

[all_terrain17]

Originally Posted by navyredneck

Torched it for 8 minutes til smoke was coming off of the seals, sprayed PB blaster on it, then jumped up and down on the breaker bar, and the bolt loosened. Kept moving the breaker bar and jumping to get the bolt to move.

You sir, are my hero

Congrats on doing such a good job, was a good read!