navyRedneck's 1985 Pickup Build-Up Thread

[navyredneck]

So I brought the pickup home last night, early this morning. Here's a picture of my 2 trucks: Pickup has a bad rod knock. Carb was supposedly rebuilt not too long ago but I couldn't get it to run for anything... Carb spray helped some. Immediate plans: $358.95 LCE 22R/RE Street Header Kit - 4WD (81-95) 1041036 (leaning more towards not doings this as I'd rather spend that money rebuilding the winch or on new springs. Anyone disagree?) Engine options 1. Oregon engines for 1000.00 plus 300 shipping. 2. Orient engine for 1399.00 plus lift gate fees. Probably gonna go with Orient just based on all the good feedback on this site regarding them. If I wanted more aftermarket stuff on the engine I'd definitely go with Oregon as they offer aftermarket stuff installed with a Lifetime Unlimited Mileage warranty. Will look at clutch, hoping to not do this right now. Plan is to get the truck rolling and make sure everything else works. I do have some surface rust on the frame that I want to take care of asap. May also ditch the rollbar as I don't have a need for it. Anyone looking to buy one? Once that is complete, do the 22r to 22re conversion found on Pirate. Looks like all the parts will run $250 plus shipping or so. Hoping to also find a local junkyard with gas tank and SR5 instrument cluster. I'm also a control freak and want to be able to watch oil pressure, tach, and voltmeter. http://siestaoff-road.web1000.com/clustertech.html I'd appreciate any criticisms or advice. I'm a pretty poor mechanic so this is gonna be a huge undertaking.

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[Elton]

i did a Lce header on my 22re was by far the best mod

[navyredneck]

Worth $350? It's just a lot of cash to throw into one component...

[91_4x4runner]

Be glad. Cams for my quad cam V8 cost over 1K. If you feel that you really need new springs worse than power, go for springs; they're relatively the same price per set.

[waskillywabbit]

Best advice I can give you...if you can do it yourself and you have another rig to dd...DIY every time. Best teacher is experience. If you build it yourself, you can hopefully fix it on the trail if need be...saddest thing to see is some "bought" rig that someone is driving and it breaks down and they have no clud how to fix it when it is usually something easily fixed.

I have an LCE header and high flow cat...with a Delta 40 Series magnaflow...who would have thought a 22RE could growl.



P.S. If ya need any parts during the "build up" just let me know.

[Kyle95sr5]

Looks great. I like the 4runner better though.

[navyredneck]

Kyle95sr5, honestly I can't imagine liking the pickup better. It's just that I'm at the point where I really want a SFA and I wanted something easier to work on that had a more long-term-reliable engine. That said, I'm hoping to sell this 4runner and then buy another one later down the road (maybe one with a blown HG that I can fix up with a 1uz V8...). At this point I just need a reliable DD that can double as a hunting truck (pickup bed will be nice for that...).

So today I doubled my money in the truck (went over actually). I ordered the LCE headers this morning (after some flip-flopping, thanks to all who offered opinions). Orient engine wasn't gonna have an engine ready until Friday so I gave Oregon engines a call. A guy named John was really helpful and now it looks like I'm gonna get a 22r next week complete with oversize valves, torque RV crane cam, and metal timing guide. Ends up being 1240 plus shipping plus core charge (dunno how much I'll get back from that due to the rod knock). Should arrive next week.

Until then I'm tearing stuff off the truck.

[Kyle95sr5]

Originally Posted by navyredneck

Kyle95sr5, honestly I can't imagine liking the pickup better. It's just that I'm at the point where I really want a SFA and I wanted something easier to work on that had a more long-term-reliable engine. That said, I'm hoping to sell this 4runner and then buy another one later down the road (maybe one with a blown HG that I can fix up with a 1uz V8...). At this point I just need a reliable DD that can double as a hunting truck (pickup bed will be nice for that...).

I have a 4runner with a ed up motor. Will be for sale soon.

[whitetaco02]

Originally Posted by navyredneck

Kyle95sr5, honestly I can't imagine liking the pickup better. It's just that I'm at the point where I really want a SFA and I wanted something easier to work on that had a more long-term-reliable engine. That said, I'm hoping to sell this 4runner and then buy another one later down the road (maybe one with a blown HG that I can fix up with a 1uz V8...). At this point I just need a reliable DD that can double as a hunting truck (pickup bed will be nice for that...).

So today I doubled my money in the truck (went over actually). I ordered the LCE headers this morning (after some flip-flopping, thanks to all who offered opinions). Orient engine wasn't gonna have an engine ready until Friday so I gave Oregon engines a call. A guy named John was really helpful and now it looks like I'm gonna get a 22r next week complete with oversize valves, torque RV crane cam, and metal timing guide. Ends up being 1240 plus shipping plus core charge (dunno how much I'll get back from that due to the rod knock). Should arrive next week.

Until then I'm tearing stuff off the truck.

what kind of warranty does the company offer where you got your engine from? I am in the market to get one as well and was curious as to what the warranty was like as well as the quality of the motor compared to jasper. good luck with the buildup and take pics as you go. good luck and take care!!

[navyredneck]

lifetime unlimited mileage for original owner!

All their web business is through eBay although I just called to place an order as I wanted to talk to them in person:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/22R-2...85363846QQrdZ1

That might also explain why their feedback is so low (more phone orders than eBay...). If you do a search on here you will find a few others who have used them and recommend them.

[whitetaco02]

ok, great!! when you get everything installed, post up and let us know what you think. I would definitely like to go that route as it would save me a bunch of money not having to go with Jasper. I just hope their quality is as good as Jasper's. good luck and post some pics when you get it.

[navyredneck]

Have disconnected all the wires and connections. Last step is to disconnect transmission. Both my Haynes and the FSM talk about removing the engine with the transmission. Since I'm gonna leave the trans in the truck how do I pull the engine alone?

I'm guessing I need to jack up the trans prior to disconnecting as the engine is currently holding up the front half of the trans. Any recommendations on how to do this with a 3" BL? My jack only goes up so far...

Engine should arrive mid next week. LCE headers are on back order. Supposedly they have 30 being ceramic coated and won't come in til next week. The sales rep said the headers are their "bread and butter" and that they can never keep enough in stock. I did ask why they were so expensive to which he replied that they were cheaper than many of the headers he has seen on the web.

Also, I was able to get the manifold off of the engine but I can't break the nuts holding the cat on. Any suggestions on that? I'm thinking of using a saw to cut it off. I think the LCE headers come with enough pipe to reach back to the cat. Once I have the cat out of the truck I could always torch/saw/drill the bolts out.

Also planning on painting the engine block with high temp paint. Currently thinking of silver.

Got word back from Warn. Seems my winch is a discontinued model dropped in 1986 called the MX6085 that is a 6000 lb winch. Supposedly the wiring is the same as the 8274 model which has an awesome writeup here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/8274/
Need to figure out what parts to rebuild. Anyone have experience with rebuilding winches?

[navyredneck]

Used my reciprocating saw to cut off the exhuast manifold just before the cat. It's now out of the truck and in my backyard. I love reciprocating saws...

I'm now looking at what is left to prevent me from pulling the engine. The only thing I can see left is the starter. If I'm only pulling the engine does the starter have to get removed seperately?

The rest of the weekend is gonna be busy. Maybe get to pull the engine late Sunday or Monday.

[navyredneck]

Finally got the engine out today. Was a big pain. The Wabbit gave me some advice and not long after I was able to get a crowbar in to get the engine and transmission apart.



(like the the two methods of redneck-engineering holding the tranny up? I had to roll the truck back after pulling the engine to get the motor into the garage so I rigged up the tranny using two independent methods in case one lets go)

I broke the oil pan bolts before I pulled the engine so I'm hoping to drop the pan tonight and check the condition of the crankshaft. Also want to start cleaning up the parts I'll be moving to the new motor.

Tomorrow I'm gonna flush the frame and start sanding, priming, and painting the frame and anything else rusted that I can get to easily with the motor out. Lots of surface rust on the frame that I'm hoping to take care of.

[waskillywabbit]

Originally Posted by navyredneck

Finally got the engine out today. Was a big pain. The Wabbit gave me some advice and not long after I was able to get a crowbar in to get the engine and transmission apart.

I told you swearing at it, threatening to dump it in the river, kicking the tires with steel toed shoes and hitting it with a hammer would work...or at least one of them did.

[whitetaco02]

Hay Navy,
I look forward to reading your post each and every dad and am please to hear you are getting some things accomplished. I can't wait to see the finished product. Good luck and definitely keep us posted.

[navyredneck]

This is my first time seeing an oil pan come off of an engine but I don't think that copper looking stuff is good...

Good news is the crankshaft doesen't move when I try to shift it. I think that means I will get my core (minus return shipping) charge back which should be about $200!

[navyredneck]

whitetaco02, thanks for the encouragement. I definitely feel over my head but I'm hoping that all goes well...

Didn't have as much time today but I did get some painting done.

Picture of battery area with rust:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...p/battrust.jpg
After sanding, priming, and painting:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r.../battpaint.jpg

Frame pictures of surface rust:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r.../framerust.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...eframerust.jpg
After sanding, priming, and painting:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...frameprime.jpg

I've always used a palm sander and it's always taken a long time. Today I went to the store and found a drill attachment that removes rust. The rust flew off! Saved me at least an hour tonight. That thing rocks!

Tomorrow I'm gonna tackle the oil pan. Hope to clean it out and get it painted. Planning on using high temp paint for it.

[navyredneck]

Cleaned out the oil pan with brake cleaner today. Found pieces of plastic timing guide (makes me feel good since I ordered the metal one installed by Oregon Engines). Got paint peeling from inside the pan, not sure what to do there. What's worse? Paint chips getting sucked up in the oil or painting the inside of the oil pan and risk having the paint fail there?

I stripped the outside of oil and rust, cleaned it up with paint thinner, and then painted it with ceramic primer and paint. I did tape the gasket area and I also left the oil drain plug installed since it's already stripped and will be thrown away afterwards. Currently got it baking in the oven

Tomorrow I plan on removing the valve cover and some other stuff. Need to take lots of pictures so I can remember how to reinstall stuff.

Any advice on what to do with the inside of the pan would be appreciated.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...kup/oilpan.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...ilpanprime.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...ilpanpaint.jpg

[navyredneck]

My engine came in yesterday. Brought it home last night. Having a hard time getting the crankshaft pulley off. I've put 200 lbs onto a 2 foot breaker bar and it didn't budge. I've tried a 500 ftlb impact wrench with no results. Thinking of trying heat....

[navyredneck]

Here's some ideas:
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.p...nkshaft+pulley

If I had been smarter I would have broken this bolt while the engine was still in the truck using the starter.

Tried a 500 ft lb impact wrench with no success.

Per oregon engines advice (I've been calling them a lot lately - awesome support from them) I laid the engine on its side and stuck a piece of wood in the crankcase so the crank wouldn't move. Then with my wife standing on the engine I jumped up and down on the breaker bar with no results.

I torched the bolt for 2 mins, jumped up and down on the breaker bar with no results.

Torched it for 8 minutes til smoke was coming off of the seals, sprayed PB blaster on it, then jumped up and down on the breaker bar, and the bolt loosened. Kept moving the breaker bar and jumping to get the bolt to move. Now have to get a replacement bolt as the bolt is almost rounded off... And no local stores carry it. They all say that it is a dealership only part.

[navyredneck]

Finished up for the night. New crankshaft came without key and I can't figure out how to get old key off of old shaft. Also can't figure out where to put the vaseline in the oil pump to prime it. Hope to torque down head bolts tomorrow and install the valve cover. Also I think I messed up the timing because I didn't even look at the distributor when I pulled the old one off...

[881stGenRunner]

coming along, sounds good. Keep at it

[navyredneck]

Still stuck on the crankshaft key and Oregon engines didn't work today. May hold off until Monday when I can speak directly to them. Either need to find a way to get the old keys off or find new keys.

In the meantime I got some used rims and tires... 33x12.50 Timberline MT's delivered from a hunting friend. My friend even stayed around to bust some bolts loose from the rollbar. So the rollbar is off leaving some 20 holes or so in the bed (looks like first set rusted so a PO redrilled new ones). Thinking of getting another friend to weld a patch in prior to herculining... I dunno, any inputs?

And got the bumper off. Lots of surface rust in the area so I sanded and painted the rear portion of the frame. Got dark before I could put the 3rd coat of paint on (after 3 coats of primer). Will finish tomorrow and maybe get some work done on the engine. Garage needs some serious work as well. Looks filthy and I can't find any of my tools.

Here's a dark pic of the truck without the extra junk. Will probably pull off nerfbars eventually to replace with sliders.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...rearbumper.jpg

[navyredneck]

Never got a straight answer from anyone so I tried everything to get those keys out. Finally had to use (gasp) lock pliers to remove both keys. That left big gouges in the metal which resulted in me sanding down the sides and top to get them to slide easily in the metal collar that drives the oil pump.

Decided to clean the valve cover today. Inside was filthy but not as bad as many I've seen on the forums here. Used engine degreaser and then soap and water. Worries me because I think that they might hurt the oil that I put back in. Probably explains why the first oil change comes at 500 miles --> to remove the metal filings and the solvents used to clean the engine up.

Also checked the torque on the head bolts. None moved when I went to the factory spec of 58 ft lbs. Should be able to start tightening bolts on the timing chain cover, install the water pump (new one for $30 at autozone), install the oil pump (packed with vaseline), and install the oil pickup tube and oil pan tonight.