FS: 1989 4runner, lockers, 33's, in CT 06335
02-23-2015, 05:34 AM
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FS: 1989 4runner, lockers, 33's, in CT 06335
Why is there no Northeast Prefix?!
Hey guys,
Just picked up a newer toyota, so my toy has to go. Its a 1989 4runner SR5, IFS, v6 5spd. Cali truck until 2012, then it sat for a year, then i bought it. It has 290k on it, but dont let that scare you. The truck is ready to rock and roll. 4wd works like a champ. New heads, head gaskets, bolts, timing belt, water pump, thermostat, pcv, valve cover gaskets, radiator, trans mount, new exhaust, etc all done within the last 18k miles. Clutch done 50k ago. Nearly everything works as it should. Cruise control, stereo, HVAC (yes, even the A/C), rear wiper and washer, etc. The only thing i know doesnt work is the rear defroster. Not sure why. The transmission doesnt whine, grind, or pop out of gear. Ive owned it for the past two years, and been dailying it for the past 3 months with little to no issue. I love this truck and wish i didnt have to get rid of it. Just dont have the room.
Worth mentioning that when i changed the oil around 5k ago, i used Citgo 10w30, and all of a sudden it started consuming oil. It used about a quart every 600 miles. I popped in another new pcv for grins and it didnt seem to help. These engines are known to use some oil, and i suppose i should have kept with the Quaker State 10w40 dino oil i usually use, as i didnt seem to have this problem before this oil change. I did some research and found that im not the first to see consumption with use of some 10w30 oil. I just paid attention to it and added when needed. It doesnt smoke, has good power, and doesnt leak a drop. I just changed the oil 200 miles ago and it seems ok now, but the next owner should keep an eye on it. And who am i kidding, this is a perfect 5vz swap candidate!
Being a cali truck, this thing is extremely rust free. The frame is 100% solid. Sadly, within the last month, the pass rear arch started to rust. A 65 dollar patch panel is available, and for under 300, and entire new side from the door to the taillight can be had. I washed it the other day and the car wash removed some paint around the rust, which flashed over pretty quick. It looks worse than it is. Otherwise, no rust. There is some damage to the drivers side, but is fixable. i didnt mind it.
goodies:
4.56 gears
Detroit locker rear
ARB air locker front w/ on board compressor
Aisin manual hubs
33x12.5x15 Goodyear duratrac's with at least 70% left on 15x8 alum wheels
Matching spare wheel with 33" MT on it
Honda Prelude front seats
Custom tire carrier rear bumper with high lift mount (jack included)
Rancho add-a-leafs out back
Front brakes just done (including new calipers)
The A/C even works
I have a Smittybilt winch plate front bumper that needs to be fabbed on
Budbuilt skid plate
tons of extra parts included.
4500 OBO. In 06335, SE CT.
I have as thorough spreadsheet outlining mods/maintenence i can email over.
thanks.
Hey guys,
Just picked up a newer toyota, so my toy has to go. Its a 1989 4runner SR5, IFS, v6 5spd. Cali truck until 2012, then it sat for a year, then i bought it. It has 290k on it, but dont let that scare you. The truck is ready to rock and roll. 4wd works like a champ. New heads, head gaskets, bolts, timing belt, water pump, thermostat, pcv, valve cover gaskets, radiator, trans mount, new exhaust, etc all done within the last 18k miles. Clutch done 50k ago. Nearly everything works as it should. Cruise control, stereo, HVAC (yes, even the A/C), rear wiper and washer, etc. The only thing i know doesnt work is the rear defroster. Not sure why. The transmission doesnt whine, grind, or pop out of gear. Ive owned it for the past two years, and been dailying it for the past 3 months with little to no issue. I love this truck and wish i didnt have to get rid of it. Just dont have the room.
Worth mentioning that when i changed the oil around 5k ago, i used Citgo 10w30, and all of a sudden it started consuming oil. It used about a quart every 600 miles. I popped in another new pcv for grins and it didnt seem to help. These engines are known to use some oil, and i suppose i should have kept with the Quaker State 10w40 dino oil i usually use, as i didnt seem to have this problem before this oil change. I did some research and found that im not the first to see consumption with use of some 10w30 oil. I just paid attention to it and added when needed. It doesnt smoke, has good power, and doesnt leak a drop. I just changed the oil 200 miles ago and it seems ok now, but the next owner should keep an eye on it. And who am i kidding, this is a perfect 5vz swap candidate!
Being a cali truck, this thing is extremely rust free. The frame is 100% solid. Sadly, within the last month, the pass rear arch started to rust. A 65 dollar patch panel is available, and for under 300, and entire new side from the door to the taillight can be had. I washed it the other day and the car wash removed some paint around the rust, which flashed over pretty quick. It looks worse than it is. Otherwise, no rust. There is some damage to the drivers side, but is fixable. i didnt mind it.
goodies:
4.56 gears
Detroit locker rear
ARB air locker front w/ on board compressor
Aisin manual hubs
33x12.5x15 Goodyear duratrac's with at least 70% left on 15x8 alum wheels
Matching spare wheel with 33" MT on it
Honda Prelude front seats
Custom tire carrier rear bumper with high lift mount (jack included)
Rancho add-a-leafs out back
Front brakes just done (including new calipers)
The A/C even works
I have a Smittybilt winch plate front bumper that needs to be fabbed on
Budbuilt skid plate
tons of extra parts included.
4500 OBO. In 06335, SE CT.
I have as thorough spreadsheet outlining mods/maintenence i can email over.
thanks.
Last edited by Ahenry014; 03-08-2015 at 09:52 AM.
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