Easy Oil Breather/ Air Filter Mod Write-Up
12-03-2011, 03:53 PM
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Easy Oil Breather/ Air Filter Mod Write-Up
Oil Breather Custom Relocation
I was thrilled to discover that the hose from the front of my cam cover was running oil into my intake right before the turbo, soaking the turbo, throttle body, and various other intake parts. I tried simply plugging the hose and found out the blow by pressure was spraying oil out of my dipstick and covering the driver side of my motor, that wouldn’t do. So I decided to install a breather filter in such a way as to allow proper air flow and not allow motor oil to get into my engine bay. Things to know, this is a EASY, FAST, and CHEEP way to prevent excessive oil blow by from getting into your intake or engine bay.
Oil Breather - Air Filter Mod
1987 4Runner Turbo
22R-TE
Here you can see the original set up. Notice it’s a rubber hose, to a metal pipe, to another hose, and into my air intake between the filter and turbo. I believe on most 22R-E engines this would run into the intake between the filter and throttle body. The far right end is where I first attempted to plug the hose.
Parts: From local hardware store unless noted.
K&N ¾” x 2” Air filter: Auto Parts Store $20
¾” to ½” 90° Copper Tube Elbow: $4
½” to ½” 135° Copper Tube Elbow: $4
Rubber Gaskets/ O-Rings: $1.50
2’ of 3/8” Fuel Line: $3
6” of ¾”ID Heater Hose: $.50
Not Shown - 2 Small Hose Clamps ( for 3/8” Fuel Line)
Not Shown - 2 Medium Hose Clamps (for ¾” Heater Hose)
The rubber gaskets were used to attach the ¾” end of the elbow over the truck coming out of the cam cover. These ended up not working and I used a piece of hose with the OD matching the ID of the elbow, and the ID matching the OD of the trunk. If I did this again I would use a ½”x½”90° , it fit much better and could be solidly soldered to the trunk.
Once I had the gasket figured out I slipped the one end of the fuel line into the ½” side of the 90° elbow and secured it by crimping the copper elbow with a punch and a hammer. You could also use some heavy duty glue. I slid the other end of the hose over the small metal tube mounted in my intake. This tube would not be on a non-turbo engine and can be skipped, just run a hose from elbow to filter. I actually didn’t need to use this pipe but I figured since it was there I might as well utilize it.
Next I made a bracket for the filter out of some light weight flat bar I had, a drill, and a hammer to bend the corner. I chose to place it here because of the easy access to the mounting bolt and the elevation. You want to make sure the majority of your line will be at an upward angle from the truck to avoid oil blowing out the filter. This is also why I didn’t just attach the filter to the trunk.
Now I slid the filter into the bracket and secured it by siding the ¾” hose over the bottom and using a hose clamp.
I needed to attach the tube on the intake to the filter and I did it with the 135° elbow and one more length of the 3/8” fuel line. I attached the elbow the same way with a punch and hammer, then slid the other side into the ¾” hose below the filter and tightened down the hose clamp.
Now the other end of the hose slips over the metal tube on the intake and one last small hose clamp to secure it.
And Presto!
All and all it was about $30 and a couple hours work. So far this seems to of solved my problems and hopefully improve the running of the engine. I also replaced my PCV valve (rear end of the cam cover) and put the last piece of 3/8” hose from the valve to the intake. The PCV valve is about $2.50 and this that you replace the whole setup. Hope some of you find this helpful.
Cheers,
Cordell
I was thrilled to discover that the hose from the front of my cam cover was running oil into my intake right before the turbo, soaking the turbo, throttle body, and various other intake parts. I tried simply plugging the hose and found out the blow by pressure was spraying oil out of my dipstick and covering the driver side of my motor, that wouldn’t do. So I decided to install a breather filter in such a way as to allow proper air flow and not allow motor oil to get into my engine bay. Things to know, this is a EASY, FAST, and CHEEP way to prevent excessive oil blow by from getting into your intake or engine bay.
Oil Breather - Air Filter Mod
1987 4Runner Turbo
22R-TE
Here you can see the original set up. Notice it’s a rubber hose, to a metal pipe, to another hose, and into my air intake between the filter and turbo. I believe on most 22R-E engines this would run into the intake between the filter and throttle body. The far right end is where I first attempted to plug the hose.
Parts: From local hardware store unless noted.
K&N ¾” x 2” Air filter: Auto Parts Store $20
¾” to ½” 90° Copper Tube Elbow: $4
½” to ½” 135° Copper Tube Elbow: $4
Rubber Gaskets/ O-Rings: $1.50
2’ of 3/8” Fuel Line: $3
6” of ¾”ID Heater Hose: $.50
Not Shown - 2 Small Hose Clamps ( for 3/8” Fuel Line)
Not Shown - 2 Medium Hose Clamps (for ¾” Heater Hose)
The rubber gaskets were used to attach the ¾” end of the elbow over the truck coming out of the cam cover. These ended up not working and I used a piece of hose with the OD matching the ID of the elbow, and the ID matching the OD of the trunk. If I did this again I would use a ½”x½”90° , it fit much better and could be solidly soldered to the trunk.
Once I had the gasket figured out I slipped the one end of the fuel line into the ½” side of the 90° elbow and secured it by crimping the copper elbow with a punch and a hammer. You could also use some heavy duty glue. I slid the other end of the hose over the small metal tube mounted in my intake. This tube would not be on a non-turbo engine and can be skipped, just run a hose from elbow to filter. I actually didn’t need to use this pipe but I figured since it was there I might as well utilize it.
Next I made a bracket for the filter out of some light weight flat bar I had, a drill, and a hammer to bend the corner. I chose to place it here because of the easy access to the mounting bolt and the elevation. You want to make sure the majority of your line will be at an upward angle from the truck to avoid oil blowing out the filter. This is also why I didn’t just attach the filter to the trunk.
Now I slid the filter into the bracket and secured it by siding the ¾” hose over the bottom and using a hose clamp.
I needed to attach the tube on the intake to the filter and I did it with the 135° elbow and one more length of the 3/8” fuel line. I attached the elbow the same way with a punch and hammer, then slid the other side into the ¾” hose below the filter and tightened down the hose clamp.
Now the other end of the hose slips over the metal tube on the intake and one last small hose clamp to secure it.
And Presto!
All and all it was about $30 and a couple hours work. So far this seems to of solved my problems and hopefully improve the running of the engine. I also replaced my PCV valve (rear end of the cam cover) and put the last piece of 3/8” hose from the valve to the intake. The PCV valve is about $2.50 and this that you replace the whole setup. Hope some of you find this helpful.
Cheers,
Cordell
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